On a long tour & engine sputtering

When the engine is switched off via the kill switch, the ECU has no possibility to save the current environmental parameters. For example, if you start at sea level and switch off the engine at a higher altitude, for example on a mountain pass, the parameters stored in the ECU are those from sea level. If you want to restart the engine in the thin air, you can get start problems because the ECU has stored the environmental parameters from sea level. If you always move at the same altitude with same environmental parameters, there are usually no big problems.
Regards, Georg

Then when one travels to higher altitude one should reset the adaptations and 12 minute tune?
 
when u turn the key on regardless of whether u r at see level or on mount Everest the map acts like a barometer and when u start it u have the map for pressure
i think that i have said that if you trailer it up the mountain it might act up but i think now it would be ok.
 
^ once again @Scholle - look at the schematic - the kill switch and the key-switch are DIRECTLY in series with each other and break the circuit at exactly the same node.
I'm sorry, but you are just absolutely wrong on this.

I've taken the trouble to show the current (conventional, not electron) flow - the ONLY thing between the Key-Switch and the Kill Switch is the Fuse (5)
Please explain to me in the schematic below, how operating the Kill-Switch creates a different situation for the ECU, vs operating the Key-Switch

Ignition_Circuit.png
 
^ once again @Scholle - look at the schematic - the kill switch and the key-switch are DIRECTLY in series with each other and break the circuit at exactly the same node.
I'm sorry, but you are just absolutely wrong on this.

I've taken the trouble to show the current (conventional, not electron) flow - the ONLY thing between the Key-Switch and the Kill Switch is the Fuse (5)
Please explain to me in the schematic below, how operating the Kill-Switch creates a different situation for the ECU, vs operating the Key-Switch

Ignition_Circuit.png
DEcosse, you might certainly be right,

I do not understand as much about electronics as you do. What I've told here about the function of the kill switch is what my BMW dealer told me several years ago. Maybe BMW's systems are slightly different in design than Triumph's.
Regards, Georg
 
So I followed all the advice given from tightening the low voltage coil wire connections on all 3 (front coil was a biaahtch) coils, adjust iscv to .6 & .72 (was at .61 & .70). 12 minute tune. Also switched maps to Nels @ 2 wheels dyno touring tune. Replaced vacuum line caps. Checked and secured all wiring above the engine. Balanced throttle bodies @ 530 (#1 was 20 higher than 2 & 3). And so with great thanks to all I'm happy to report it's running like a healthy beast once more!!

Though having done so many things all at once I couldn't say with absolute confidence what was the main culprit was. I mainly suspect loosened coil wires. As I pondered the events prior to the conditions birth the thought hit me, that I had been out camping just prior, & brought the bike in our bouncing over road cracks & bumps 5th wheel toy hauler for near 1000 miles round trip. Certainly enough jarring to shake loose any susceptible wires. Something I'll give more thought to on future travels & perhaps change the way I secure the bike.

Anyway thanks again!! Ya'll have come through several times in recent days and its appreciated so much!
 
just a thought
if u r bouncing the bike around and if it still has the emission canister it might get full of gas then run bad till it clears out.
wheni let mine sit with a full tank(below the plate) in the hot sun (black paint on top of tank) it is hard to keep it running below 1500 rpm for a couple of blocks it just wants to die.
 
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