A cheap non synthetic oil will meet motorcycle oil specs but won't last long as a multi grade oil, rapidly loosing it's viscosity, becoming a mono grade, especially in a sump that's shared with the tranny. If you don't mind changing oil and filters way more often due to viscosity breakdown and a number of other issues , go for it. The big BUT, be ready to spend more time changing oil, spend more money on the extra oil/filters needed for the increased frequency change, aggravation getting rid of the old stuff more often and increased risk of having engine failures due to a decrease in corrosion protection, anti foaming protection, high temp protection, etc etc. You pay for those extra additives in the premium grade oils. Just look at the number of Amzoil 3rd party comparisons of different oils. Meeting a spec doesn't mean they are always good....
I agree that non synthetic cannot last as long from what I have read. I should have been more clear in my post, comparing other synthetic oils to one another with same specs, cheap vs expensive.
Reviews I am often skeptical cause of powerful lobbyists, the bigger the company the more influence.
I pulled this from Blackstone Labs and find it interesting, confirming what I am thinking at this point.

Spotlight on... by Jim Stark No matter who you are or what your oil analysis needs are, you have undoubtedly faced the question on everyone’s mind these days: What brand of oil should I use? Many people have very strong loyalties to certain brands of oil. They’ll swear by their favorite brand and assure you that anything else is bound to ruin your engine. But we’re here to dispel that myth. After nearly 20 years of testing oils from thousands of different engines and industrial machines, we have discovered a simple fact: it doesn’t really matter what brand of oil you use. But wait! Before you dismiss us as heretical, listen to what we do recommend. We always suggest using an oil grade recommended for your engine by the manufacturer and a brand that fits your budget. The grade of oil is much more important to performance than the brand of oil. In fact, here’s another little secret. The oil you can find at any mass retailer is actually name-brand oil, but with the store’s label on it. Think about it. A retail store is not in the business of manufacturing oil. They buy their oil from the big oil companies and put their name on the bottle. The only difference between the “generic” brand and the name-brand oil is the name on the bottle and about 50 cents per quart. We analyze oils from our personal use engines (right down to our lawn mowers) religiously. We tend to choose oils that do not contain additives that can get in the way of elements we want to see in the analysis. For instance, some light, multi-grade oils use compounds of copper and/or sodium as oil additives. The copper additive masks brass or bronze wear from the engine. Sodium additives can mask anti-freeze contamination.

Pertaining to Amsoil, same lab, this is what I found..

A Brand New Perspective Digging Into the Timeless Question, “Which Oil is Better?” by Travis Heffelfinger I was talking to a customer recently, going over the results from his latest oil report, and the conversation went a little something like this: Him: “So, I’m using Rotella in this engine… is that the best choice?” Me: “It certainly seems to be doing a good job. You’d probably get good results with whatever oil you used, but this is working fine.” Him: “Would I be better off if I switched to Mobil 1?” Me: “Well, you could, but I wouldn’t expect much change in engine wear. We find that the type of oil typically doesn’t matter when it comes to wear metals.” Him: “What about Amsoil? I’ve heard that’s the best oil out there.” Me: “That’s a good brand as well. We just don’t tend to see much difference in wear metals between different oil types, so whichever one you want to use is fine.” Him: “Okay, but what about that new Pennzoil Ultra stuff? I’ve heard that’s a much better product. Is that better than Amsoil, or not?” Me: [sigh…] This discussion went on for a while.

Concerning the difference in price of oils, higher price must be better is this...

By far, the most common question we get is, “Which oil should I use?” And that’s understandable. You’re just trying to do what’s right for your engine, and each oil promises to be the absolute best. After all, there’s got to be some reason why you can pick up a cheap, store-brand oil for about $2.50 a quart, while other types of oil go for $10 per quart or more. There have to be some differences, right? Well, of course there are. Different brands have different levels of additives, start from different base stocks, and undergo different manufacturing processes, making some types of oil a lot more expensive than others. But the real question is, do those differences have a meaningful effect on how your engine is wearing?

The answer was no. (my words from reading whole article.)
 
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I say this as someone who consistently chooses Mobil1 - anything beyond full synthetic of the appropriate viscosity and specification is probably just warm fuzzies.

But... vi is still better than emacs. :whitstling:
 
Since a friend of mine put me onto Amsoil many years ago, i have always stuck with it mainly because it stays clean for ages...the engine is smooth sounding..the gear shifts are smooth too. It does cost me quite a bit...something like $NZ229 for 5 qts. I also use the amsoil oil filter. It claims 98.7% @ 20 microns per ISO 4548-12...thinner than a human hair i believe yet still lets the oil pump thru at the correct pressure. In saying all this, i havnt tried other oil brands simply because why would i?...im happy with the results i get and dont want to change just to see if they are better or worse.



microns
 
i use lucas 20-50w says synthetic
$9.59 per quart buying whole sale says list 19.18
just checked my oil (at 5000 miles)and it still looks like new on the stick i know it will b darker when i drain.
do not have much of opinion on oil but i am an expert on atf.
atf (automatic transmission fluid.)
DO NOT DO THIS!
i once put a quart in a pan on the stove and monitored it with a thermometer and when it reached 250 degrees it started to steam then it rapidly started to break down. it it starts to turn brown and quick becomes useless.
now u might ask why anyone would do this so i will tell u why i bought 50 gallons of bad atf and put it into customers cars/trucks now i was under the impression that it was shell atf now the wholesaler was kind enough to give me another 50 gallons and i was dumb enough to take it.
so by the time i was able to replace the atf (going with Valvoline atf) i was out about $10,000.
in the early years gm atf was practically worthless so we used ford fluid but gm started to change started with A then went to b,c d, dextron I/ii/iii
then to dextron III/mercon that is a great fluid and we started to use that in all of our transmissions.
moving into the modern days they have all kinds of atf. mostly the difference is the friction modifiers . most of the time u would not notice a difference
but if u put regular atf in a honda (because honda has a lot of modifiers) it will shift with a hard bang.
which brings us back to the oil and for the wet clutches you need some friction modifiers and this (i think) is where the oil you run makes the difference. jmo
 
i use lucas 20-50w says synthetic
$9.59 per quart buying whole sale says list 19.18
just checked my oil (at 5000 miles)and it still looks like new on the stick i know it will b darker when i drain.
do not have much of opinion on oil but i am an expert on atf.
atf (automatic transmission fluid.)
DO NOT DO THIS!
i once put a quart in a pan on the stove and monitored it with a thermometer and when it reached 250 degrees it started to steam then it rapidly started to break down. it it starts to turn brown and quick becomes useless.
now u might ask why anyone would do this so i will tell u why i bought 50 gallons of bad atf and put it into customers cars/trucks now i was under the impression that it was shell atf now the wholesaler was kind enough to give me another 50 gallons and i was dumb enough to take it.
so by the time i was able to replace the atf (going with Valvoline atf) i was out about $10,000.
in the early years gm atf was practically worthless so we used ford fluid but gm started to change started with A then went to b,c d, dextron I/ii/iii
then to dextron III/mercon that is a great fluid and we started to use that in all of our transmissions.
moving into the modern days they have all kinds of atf. mostly the difference is the friction modifiers . most of the time u would not notice a difference
but if u put regular atf in a honda (because honda has a lot of modifiers) it will shift with a hard bang.
which brings us back to the oil and for the wet clutches you need some friction modifiers and this (i think) is where the oil you run makes the difference. jmo
Interesting. From the Blackstone website article I read, the point was made that the higher priced oils DO have more additives, modifiers, but it did not provide any notable difference in protection of motor parts. Some of the cheaper ones, like Rotella synthetic, on some variables had better numbers than the expensive oils.
I am going to send my cheap Quick Silver full synthetic 15w 50 sample for analysis on my next oil change. Just curious. Then, if I am really daring, might wait for 10k on the following oil chg rather than 5k.
 
you can tell when the atf starts breaking down the friction modifiers seem to be weaker because when we change the fluids (and i buy the best i can get)
most cars/trucks shift smother.
now i do not notice a diff on the bike but i have never went to 10,000 miles on an oil change.
 
you can tell when the atf starts breaking down the friction modifiers seem to be weaker because when we change the fluids (and i buy the best i can get)
most cars/trucks shift smother.
now i do not notice a diff on the bike but i have never went to 10,000 miles on an oil change.
Mine shifts smooth, no change when about to change after 5k. Maybe 10k we would notice. If so, I would not go that interval.
On the vtx I had, with rotella it was smooth until 1.5k, then shifting was louder. Yet that oil has great numbers on oil analysis? I stopped using it cause of that mainly.
 
Mine shifts smooth, no change when about to change after 5k. Maybe 10k we would notice. If so, I would not go that interval.
On the vtx I had, with rotella it was smooth until 1.5k, then shifting was louder. Yet that oil has great numbers on oil analysis? I stopped using it cause of that mainly.
when we are out on a run lets compare by putting both on a white paper.
i think i will run mine to higher miles and keep an eye on it.
 
when we are out on a run lets compare by putting both on a white paper.
i think i will run mine to higher miles and keep an eye on it.
Ok. You mean put drops of oil on white paper to see which looks darker? If so are we sure that is an indication of how well the oil is protecting? If so, oil labs could skip all the analysis of what is in the oil and just base opinion on the color of the oil. One variable.
 
I just read that black oil is not a sign of needing changing, as each heat cycle, short and long trips, cause oil to darken.
Also who knew this! The additives in the oil to help with longevity, lubrication, cause it to darken!
The article claims you should chg oil by manufacturer intervals. Herman, we fall under category of severe weather and dusty conditions, so 5k is I think correct.
 
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