Occasional red light on high coolant temperature!!

Idled the engine and checked d fan to come on. The coolant level is ok too!!
Next is oil grade change or avoiding serious traffic jams:D.

Since d light went off after 5 minute stop and moving the engine !! Is it a matter to be investigated??? o_O
 
My temp light came on today, but it was 110° out. After I got moving it went out, fans were on.
 
I ride in some harsh conditions here in Oklahoma and have never had the temp show. Going to a heavier oil would not be my solution to the problem. Granted some bikes are designed to have a lot of play in the motor and require heavy oil (Harley) but believe the Triumphs are made a little better than that and running a heavy oil could cause more problems than what it is worth. Then again I am rather stupid.
 
I had the high coolant warning in dashboard coming up on 2-3 instances during a 20-25 minute traffic jam!! Ambient temperature was like 95 F. I pulled to the corner! switched of the engine and started again, it was ok, the warning went off. Iam using Mobil racing 4T 10 W40. Will it help in similar conditions if i change to 20W50 or 15W50???
I got 2200 miles on the dashboard and used to the power now, wanna go for derestricting in the first 3 gears ( 2012 R3R). Will de-restricting add to extra heating??? Suggestions Pls.
It gets into the high 90s here in the summer, so when in traffic at a stop, I manually increase and hold the throttle to keep the engine RPM at 1,000 to 1,100 RPM. This should circulate the coolant and oil a little quicker than idle. Didn't someone post that you should increase the idle to 950 through tune ECU to help the oil properly circulate to all parts of the engine?
 
The heavier oil is designed to help protect an engine that runs hot; not help it run cooler.

It's been my experience that a heavier weight oil will increase operating temps; while a quality 10-40 full synthetic will reduce operating temps by a small amount.
Of course the heavier oil will offer better lubrication when your bike does run hot; so I won't advise you not to use it.
But, I would look elsewhere to address the coolant temps.
 
I had my temp light come on a few times right before my rad cap failed. Try a new cap, you should have a spare anyway. Small price to pay to avoid huge aggravation.
 
Urr Uhh, dat engine oil grade change comment was from 2014, back when men still had to use the men's bathroom :roll: :roll:
Sonny's not stupid. Sometimes he just doesn't get enuff sleep.......... :whitstling: :D
And yes, Lee's right. many on here have suggested to set idle in TuneEcu to 925-950 to better circulate oil @ idle.
Replace radiator cap every 5 years or so, whether you think it needs one or not.
 
It has happened to me twice. Both times, at or near 100 degrees and extended stop fir road construction. Both times also with about a 5 to 10 mph tail wind preventing fan from moving air thru my radiator.
 
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