Noisy Tranny .

[Micksan]

This is not a new issue on this bike . The transmission sounds like a thrassing machine. Pull in the clutch and all goes quite. I am running AMS full Synthenic 75/140 .
It runs and shifts great. Just never had a bike do this . Could it be using thw AMS oil???

 

[Cobba]

This is not a new issue on this bike . The transmission sounds like a thrassing machine. Pull in the clutch and all goes quite. I am running AMS full Synthenic 75/140 .
It runs and shifts great. Just never had a bike do this . Could it be using thw AMS oil???

Am I reading this wrong Why such a heavy oil??
Factory spec is only 10/40 or 15/50, and even then the 15/50 is for the hotter climates.
The oil you have used is the diff oil for the bevel box, not an engine oil.

My bike also makes excess noise when idling in neutral. I put it down to the clutch having free play within itself and chattering around slightly.
Never worried much as it goes away when the clutch is pulled.

Ever heard a Ducati with a dry clutch??? Same thing.

 

[warp9.9]

Yep if you are running gear lube as engine oil I suggest you stop and drop the oil, flush with some cheap oil and then try the recommended oil like stated above 15W50. If you actually used gear lube in the engine you will be lucky if you did not starve a few if not a lot of bearings of lubrication. Bet it not good on the clutch or the main bearings either. How many miles have you been running the molasses in the engine?

 

[Triple Trouble]

Whilst Micksan has cleared up what he meant and hasn't in fact been running gear oil in his engine I think there is some misconception as to the viscosity of gear oils. A 90wt gear oil is about the same viscosity as a 50wt engine oil. Different scales are used . Gear oil is obviously totally wrong for use in an engine though.

 

[Micksan]

My Goof

My brain must have been turned of. I am using the 10/40 for the engine/tranny oil,and the 75/140 for the final drive. Been working on to many old bikes that have separate oil for eng & tranny . Sorry about the confusion.

 

[boogerdave]

And yes . . they are noisy little suckers. Mine has clacked and whined since day one. Every one I have ridden sounds about the same.

 

[scot in exile]

If you are wearing proper ear protection(as everyone should) it does not sound to bad

 

[Dennsell]

And yes . . they are noisy little suckers. Mine has clacked and whined since day one. Every one I have ridden sounds about the same.

Yep mine too.. I never sit a lights with the bike in gear because of the clutch pre load so I hear mine all the time if I listen for it, not as bad as the Ducatti..

 

[Micksan]

UPDATE >>>> Today I started in on the bike . Got the saddle bags off and notoced that the exhaust heat shiels were loose. 2 of the securing blts were missing. Replaced them, andtried thebike out in the stand. One noise fixed .
Next removed the rear tireand checked the bearings >> good
Startedit again. Felt the drice shaft tunnel and it felt like the drive shaft was slapping against it.
Pulled the swing arm ( no big deal) . One direction of the U-joint is much looser than the other . So that makes it my #1 suspect.
BUT>>> there is a slight wear mark on the front of the portion of the drive shaft that hooks up to the out put shaft of the tranny. I have a friend coming over tomorrow with some of his measuring trools. He will check the output shaft , to make sure it is not wobbling .
Note on pulling the swing arm
#1 you will need a 17mm allen wrench to unscrew the pivots.
#2 the right side is the adjustment side . Measure the amount of threads sticking out prior to removing it. I took the locl nut off first. If you do not do this geting it back to where it suppose to be will be a pain in the ass. I had BMWs & Motto Guzzis in the past. I also learned the hard way.
One other thing . The dealer said that the driveshaft comes as a complete unit. Has anyone heard of replacement U-joints. They are just held in with snap rings. Would not be to hard to change out.
If there is mis spelling ,I am sorry. Tired and have to go out .

 

[Cobba]

Take the whole drivshaft into a bearing supplier or transmittion specialist and see if the can cross reference the universal joint by size.
Could be an off the shelf item for any small car for all you know.

Can't see why you couldn't only change a uni rather than a whole unit.
I am pretty sure some OEM spare parts guys these days don't have much in the way of mechanical skills (or aren't allowed to offer alternatives).
If the computer shows it as a complete unit to them then that's the end of the story.

Did they give you a price on the complete unit??? About $600 or more going by Triumphs over inflated parts calulations I'd reckon.
A universal joint would only be around the $30 to $40 mark if you can find a match.



Edit.
Also like to add.
These parts your looking at now wouldn't be causing your noise when the bike is idling in neutral with the clutch out. Nothing past the clutch would be moving other than the gearbox input shaft.