MAP and or Air Pressure sensor fault

[jjd]

OK, really, thanks for all your input. I'll give a summary of where I'm at right now. First, TuneECU needs (a lot of) familiarisation before using!!! Must admit, I dived in and am learning on the job. Thankfully, time is not an imperative with this one.
At some time within the last four years since I first saw it, the idle stepper motor has been removed and some custom, straight through exhausts fitted with the cat deleted, as too, the o2 sensor. (It also had the gearbox repaired so I'm guessing most mechanical settings were disturbed during engine removal).
From various posts, I am presuming this is now running solely in open loop mode, i.e. no feedback from O2 sensor and no idle control function. (Other than the throttle stop screw/locknut.) My first struggle was trying to get the throttle bodies balanced, they were wildly out, I had to resort to my vacuum gauges to restore equilibrium.
Here I hold my hands up in a 'Duh!' moment. I was reading the balance adjustments wrong, taking the bottom dial as No. 1 cylinder, when it is in fact no.3. This I will correct once I am back to it. (As is, I am not that far out).
I can get a good tickover, circa 900 rpm by adjusting the throttle stop via the allen head screw/ locknut and the TPS to .6v, (via adjust ISCV) any less and the engine is rough as, a little more and the Throttle stepper unit keeps cycling, (engine stopped, ignition on),
Now, as I understand it, I am in the ballpark with the static (primary) TPS, but I keep seeing mention of adjusting a nut to set up for .7v... No idea where this nut might be unless it is a function of the idle adjust unit...?
I also see reference to setting the temperature to adjust 'target' idle speed, anyone educate me as to that adjustment... please!
Oh, BTW. Once i set this all up and it runs quite satisfactorily, if I invoke 'Reset Adaption' everything reverts to some setting that throws everything out, engine really rough.
I have reloaded the map again in case that had been corrupted, but no difference.
I am, admittedly, feeling my way around this one. It was running perfectly well five years ago but has been stood for at least four years. And yes, fuel is clean and new, filter clean, once running smoothly, engine is sweet with no undue noises.
Cheers...I think.....

 

[atomsplitter]

One thing you might also take a gander at is the crank angle sensor. It's on the bottom of the motor and held in with a single screw/bolt. Pull that and clean any oil off it then reinstall and see if the bike changes behavior for the better.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Now, as I understand it, I am in the ballpark with the static (primary) TPS, but I keep seeing mention of adjusting a nut to set up for .7v... No idea where this nut might be unless it is a function of the idle adjust unit...?
the nut they are talking about is on the end of the stepper motor.

I also see reference to setting the temperature to adjust 'target' idle speed, anyone educate me as to that adjustment... please!
the temperature sensors are just the number that the ecu receives there is not any adjustment

if I invoke 'Reset Adaption' everything reverts to some setting that throws everything out, engine really rough.
I have reloaded the map again in case that had been corrupted, but no difference.
when you reset the ecu it reverts back to the settings when the bike was new and that does not work so good as you have found out.

I can get a good tickover, circa 900 rpm by adjusting the throttle stop via the allen head screw/ locknut and the TPS to .6v, (via adjust ISCV) any less and the engine is rough as, a little more and the Throttle stepper unit keeps cycling, (engine stopped, ignition on),
it sounds like the stepper motor is still on the bike but not in its proper place (is this correct) if so need pictures.
will wait for answer to this question before moving on.

 

[atomsplitter]

My manual says that the idle stepper arm nut should be tightened until a 0.5mm clearance can be measured between the idle control cam and the throttle roller. When the stepper motor is fully OPEN (using TuneECU or dealer tool) the voltage should read 0.72 volts from the primary throttle position sensor. Page 11.134

 

[Kevin frazier]

My manual says that the idle stepper arm nut should be tightened until a 0.5mm clearance can be measured between the idle control cam and the throttle roller. When the stepper motor is fully OPEN (using TuneECU or dealer tool) the voltage should read 0.72 volts from the primary throttle position sensor. Page 11.134

Correct, and doing that correctly is hard, i thinkits possible once someone just turned that blindly, maybe and then its jacked up forever more must shim that gap

 

[atomsplitter]

Correct, and doing that correctly is hard, i thinkits possible once someone just turned that blindly, maybe and then its jacked up forever more must shim that gap

Feeler guage will work. If you don't have a metric set a .020 inch feeler is close enough. Once you're got the gap set, then use TuneECU to open the stepper motor and then adjust that nut until the primary TPS reads 0.72 volts +/- 0.005 volts.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I would like to remind you guys that his stepper motor is removed and the idle screw is keeping the plates open so tune ecu is not going to bring the throttle plates back to normal closed position.
from what he said sounds like he still has the stepper motor hooked up to the electric.
now i am thinking that if we cannot put the stepper motor back on then we might try setting the primary tps where it is idling good (when it is warmed up to .72 volts) for starters.
what do you guys think?

 

[jjd]

Hi, Mr. Turbo has it right. There is no idle stepper at all. The owner passed on a few years ago and it is his son who I am now dealing with, so, little or no info as to its history. But, I do recall that there were cases of a problem with the idle stepper unit hanging and holding the throttles part open. Maybe this is why the idle unit has been removed? But... that resolves one of my questions in that it would appear that I have, by good fortune, arrived at a happy result.
My next visit, tomorrow, will be to correctly set throttle balance, then download the map as is for any future work.
Cheers, and heartfelt thanks to you all.

 

[Kevin frazier]

I would like to remind you guys that his stepper motor is removed and the idle screw is keeping the plates open so tune ecu is not going to bring the throttle plates back to normal closed position.
from what he said sounds like he still has the stepper motor hooked up to the electric.
now i am thinking that if we cannot put the stepper motor back on then we might try setting the primary tps where it is idling good (when it is warmed up to .72 volts) for starters.
what do you guys think?

Agreed, i think atomsplitter was just posting how to set a steeper properly for whoever comes across this thread in future. I have run the stepper, adjusted the stepper, and just removed steppers, i set tps to .64 about and set idle and balance all at same time with stepper and plates removed. Balance and idle go hand in hand when working on getting it smoothed out. With no stepper, as you balance the idle changes, move idle set screw balance changes, you can change swap hoses and get different balance numbers and again change idle. Its a fine meticulous process. This last motor swap took a day, but the balance and idle took 3 days of fiddling. Engine must be hot also when doing this as it changes from start up to a warm engine. Not telling you anything turbo just typing it out for those that might not.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i would warm up the bike then set the tps to .70 to .78 temporary just snug one bolt (using tune ecu) then do the throttle balance (somewhere around 600 to 670 adjusting idle ) for number !
then readjust tps to 72 to .75 volts.
hth