LSR Rocket 3: The Beginning....

[SpazOnaR3]

VP's C16 if we are running a gas class (or ERC's A8D, though they haven't been out at Bonneville for the past 2 years). In the Gas classes @ bonneville events you have to use a gas from the approved vendor... C16 is probably the beefiest gas that fits into that class, though they have a few other blends that are still considered gas (basically non-oxygenated fuels, a gross over-simplification, but it serves). In the Fuel classes you can run whatever ya like, but we usually leave the C16 in there and get it done, at least in the forced induction bikes. If it were an NA or nitrous bike I'd use something else.

1700 seems huge, but you have to take RPM into account with injector sizing, especially when you have less cylinders than normal for a given displacement. At high rpm you have less pulse time available, and you can easily saturate 2 or 3 single injectors. At 9500 rpm you have roughly 25ms of TOTAL time between ignition events on one cylinder. When you factor in dead dead time on each end of the pulse, plus the increased dead time at higher pressures and lower voltages (3 coils and a fuel pump at that RPM pull the electrical system down a bit), a recommended 80% duty cycle max for injectors, the higher BSFC from rich mixtures and retarded timing... you start running out of injector waaaaaay before you think you would (or most calculators will tell you).

Some people probably don't want to hear this, but the case for smaller injectors being adequate at higher HP numbers are usually either related to lower RPM applications or over inflated HP numbers, which is extremely common in the bike dyno world, more so on forced induction applications. If you see a CF higher than 1.01 on a forced induction dyno graph, you are going to get inflated numbers.... the higher the base correction and the more boost you run, the worse it actually is.

 

[Joesmoe]

Ah, timing -- where are @Claviger @Neville Lush now ?

 

[BSA Bob]

I used the stockers for this iteration, with a fresh fuel pump and a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator. After the headwork I'm planing on using some ID 1300X injectors (probably even the 1700X if I can wring 9500 rpm out of it... the 1300's may be too small at 9500rpm and 15psi, but I could always run more base pressure if it's close), and maybe making my own fuel rail. I don't know if I'll actually be able to hook up that much power on the salt/dirt at any given point, but I'd like to have the ability to turn it all the way up for pavement shenanigans.

EDIT: yea, after a little math, I think I'm just going to go with the 1700X's... that should give me enough headway to get to 20psi @ 9500 rpm. Depending on how good the Carpenter cams are and where they degree in, that should be a max of 475-500hp worth of fuel.... though I imagine it will live most of the time in the 325-375hp tune up.

These are my flow test results

 

[Tripps]

Way cool

 

[BSA Bob]

These are my flow test results

VP's C16 if we are running a gas class (or ERC's A8D, though they haven't been out at Bonneville for the past 2 years). In the Gas classes @ bonneville events you have to use a gas from the approved vendor... C16 is probably the beefiest gas that fits into that class, though they have a few other blends that are still considered gas (basically non-oxygenated fuels, a gross over-simplification, but it serves). In the Fuel classes you can run whatever ya like, but we usually leave the C16 in there and get it done, at least in the forced induction bikes. If it were an NA or nitrous bike I'd use something else.

1700 seems huge, but you have to take RPM into account with injector sizing, especially when you have less cylinders than normal for a given displacement. At high rpm you have less pulse time available, and you can easily saturate 2 or 3 single injectors. At 9500 rpm you have roughly 25ms of TOTAL time between ignition events on one cylinder. When you factor in dead dead time on each end of the pulse, plus the increased dead time at higher pressures and lower voltages (3 coils and a fuel pump at that RPM pull the electrical system down a bit), a recommended 80% duty cycle max for injectors, the higher BSFC from rich mixtures and retarded timing... you start running out of injector waaaaaay before you think you would (or most calculators will tell you).

Some people probably don't want to hear this, but the case for smaller injectors being adequate at higher HP numbers are usually either related to lower RPM applications or over inflated HP numbers, which is extremely common in the bike dyno world, more so on forced induction applications. If you see a CF higher than 1.01 on a forced induction dyno graph, you are going to get inflated numbers.... the higher the base correction and the more boost you run, the worse it actually is.

I have 2 extra injectors that come in on boost PC3 and a microtech boost computer

 

[SpazOnaR3]

Man i wanna see more pictures up close of some of the safety features you had to add so i can see how you did it.

Sorry this took so long... I've been all over the place lately.

The "drain bolt" picture is what I would safety wire to pass tech if they made me. While it's technically not the "drain bolt" I'd bet lunch and a piece of pie that it would pass.

The tether switch was an ugly patch job, but it worked. If you break one of the wires to the kill switch and put it in line it will meet the requirements as a tether lanyard AND a device that can shut of fuel without removing your hands from the handlebar (you want a nominally open switch that closes when the cap is on).

The damper was another down and dirty mod... I just used one of the old horn mounts for the small end and drilled through that gusset on the frame for the body end... the spacer gives it the distance it needs. Now, I've reduced the steering lock by a fair amount, so that probably wouldn't be ideal for a stock bike. I could engineer something bolt on with a little time, but it would likely require a damper with a much longer stroke.

The last couple are safety wire shots for the axles... nothing special there.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Thanks alot for the pictures. most of the 1 mile deals require so I appreciate it. Really cool having you on the forum and watching you do this to the Rocket! Hopefully next spring ill be ready to run the Arkansas mile, the safety requirements put me on hold this year but i really am juiced to get the lush racing rocket on the runway for what i hope will be a blast. Thanks for helping others by posting this stuff, sometimes it easier to see it done.

 

[SpazOnaR3]

I've been looking at the ECTA races like Arkansas and the Spaceport race in NM... I'd like to take the big bikes out to that one especially.

https://www.ectamile.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2018-Motorcycle-Rules.pdf

...that is the ECTA rule book from their website, and it is very similar to the SCTA, with a few more lenient requirements in some sections. It does not mention any sort of safety wire on oil fill or drain plugs, nor coolant or brakes. Now, that is their 2018 book, but I don't see any links to a more current publication.... they do have contact info though to pursue the question.

I'll start a new build thread for this year here soon, and I'll make sure to pay attention to the little safety things we have to do for the AMA/FIM; they are easily the most asinine thorough with their safety requirements.

 

[TurboFan]

On my God, what a big thanks to Kevin Frazier for directing me to this link. SpazOnaR3, WELL DONE. I am green with envy. I will try to follow all your posts and digest them before I become a pest with questions but wow, you did in one year that I have planned or hoped to do for many years. I will post how I worked out the rear sets, it may give you some thoughts. I am to old and fat to use clip ons on any bike, cant raise my head that high, but I did make some bars that were as low as I felt comfortable with the stock tank.
As for Tires, as of two years ago it was possible to jump one level up on tires, (V rated goes to 199 mph ) by shaving the tire. Cowboy Tire in Signal Hill CA. does lots of LSR tires. The rearsets attache at three points on the frame and are fabed of steel pipe 1" diameter with 3/16" wall. Weight is OK, so why not? When I found out the LSR guys ADD weight to the bikes, I thought, "Perfect, the 800# R3, and then I just get on, good to go!"

 

[SpazOnaR3]

On my God, what a big thanks to Kevin Frazier for directing me to this link. SpazOnaR3, WELL DONE. I am green with envy. I will try to follow all your posts and digest them before I become a pest with questions but wow, you did in one year that I have planned or hoped to do for many years. I will post how I worked out the rear sets, it may give you some thoughts. I am to old and fat to use clip ons on any bike, cant raise my head that high, but I did make some bars that were as low as I felt comfortable with the stock tank.
As for Tires, as of two years ago it was possible to jump one level up on tires, (V rated goes to 199 mph ) by shaving the tire. Cowboy Tire in Signal Hill CA. does lots of LSR tires. The rearsets attache at three points on the frame and are fabed of steel pipe 1" diameter with 3/16" wall. Weight is OK, so why not? When I found out the LSR guys ADD weight to the bikes, I thought, "Perfect, the 800# R3, and then I just get on, good to go!"

Thread from the dead! Looks like you haven't been on in a bit, but it happens to the best of us.

Hahaha, I love the bike man! What did you do to land it in the A frame class? They have always been real sticklers with me about having the minimum 2 mods to get a bike to run in special construction.

Here is a link to the new thread for this year LSR Turbo Rocket III, part two . I got started real late on the assembly this year, so I'm hoping I get it done in a week! The tire shaving would have been good to know... at this point I've adapted modern 17" wheels onto the bike so I can run "race tires" when necessary.