Lithium battery Australia

Hey everyone, been an owner for a few years now and have referred to this site a few times but only just joined.

I'm from Australia and noticed much of the discussion of batteries here wasnt relevant to what's avaliable in oz.

I've had ongoing issues with my batteries and it's fair to say that up until recently I haven't cared for them as I should. I was buying cheaper varieties and for a time I carried jumper cables around with me.

I'm not sure if it was coincidence or not but during these bouts of regular jumping had, at least on two separate occasions, my engine light come on. Both times I'd taken it to the shop and found it was an easy fix, I've since read that I might be able to fix this myself by updating the time and date.

After delving into the lithium or not debates last night I've decided that, being in oz and never experiencing sub zero temperatures, that lithium is a good choice for me and have shelled out nearly 500 aud on one.
I got an SSB LH20L-BS, it's capable of 700 CCA and I'm hoping it will be the last battery I buy for a long time.

I have a 12 v appliance plug wired in my pannier and know that lithium isnt intended for deep cycle but am pondering how much accessorizing I will be able to to.
If I ever wanted heated grips, a radio and a charging cradle I'm fairly certain my new battery could manage that in a heart beat.
if anyone has this battery and can offer any suggestions or comments please do.

Welcome from SA
I'm sure someone with more knowledge of batteries will be along....

That would be @barbagris

Welcome from across the ditch Christchurch New Zealand

Welcome Mat from Brissy.
I have a Lithium in one of my rockets and I must say - Its got balls- best thing you can do is upgrade your pos and Neg battery cables (I make a plug and play set) and keep a battery tender on it at all times its parked up for a few days. They don't like being fully drained but also the lithium batteries can assist in bringing completely flat lead acid batteries back to life due to the electronics in the batteries - just charge up lithium battery and also hook up dead lead acid too and give it time on a good charger.
My Lithium is about half the size and a fraction of the weight of the lead acid too.

Stillserving said:

That would be @barbagris

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Most kind.

@Rusty Bojangles - important is WHERE in OZ? - The colder part or warmer part. It need not be subzero - sub 6 or 7° can be enough to peeve one.

If you are NOT in the always warm bit then I would suggest that it is better really to have an AGM and carry a small lithium booster pack in your jacket pocket.

If you are indeed always in the warm bit - then go for Lithium as they will not dry out. All lead/acid batteries do eventually - even "sealed" ones.

There is always a trade off somewhere though - and the overall capacity of most Li is lower.
Most 20aH lead/acid replacements are about 7-8aH.
So you can run a Li down really fast if the engine is not recharging. The plus is that they tend to also recharge faster because they're smaller.

The Chemistry of Li means that if you are running something that does not need much current (an amp say) - Li are really good at keeping volts high. So you may not realise that it's near empty until it's really near empty. Lead Acids will tend to pump out amps at the expense of volts - this usually is more detectable before it is too late.

I'd suggest NOT wiring any accessories to an R3 battery that is on when the engine is not - lead/acid or Li - The battery is basically on the limit for a 2300cc engine. I have one twice the size in my 1979 Guzzi.

Get a proper battery tender rather than jumping - esp on smaller batteries. 20aH is not BIG.

Hello Rusty and welcome from Virginia. I am one of the non-LI users now. I bought one similar to yours and discovered the Lithium Cranking Amps (LCAs) are most definitely not Cold Cranking Amps (CCAs). My lithium clearly stated not to use it below 40F/4C. It gets way colder here than that. I get the idea this will not be an issue for you in a warmer area; good luck and please join in the conversation now that you are in the family brother.

WELCOME! ...to the forum family. Any photos of your R3T?
-MIG

welcome from arizona

Michael_G said:

WELCOME! ...to the forum family. Any photos of your R3T?
-MIG

Click to expand...

barbagris said:

Most kind.

@Rusty Bojangles - important is WHERE in OZ? - The colder part or warmer part. It need not be subzero - sub 6 or 7° can be enough to peeve one.

If you are NOT in the always warm bit then I would suggest that it is better really to have an AGM and carry a small lithium booster pack in your jacket pocket.

If you are indeed always in the warm bit - then go for Lithium as they will not dry out. All lead/acid batteries do eventually - even "sealed" ones.

There is always a trade off somewhere though - and the overall capacity of most Li is lower.
Most 20aH lead/acid replacements are about 7-8aH.
So you can run a Li down really fast if the engine is not recharging. The plus is that they tend to also recharge faster because they're smaller.

The Chemistry of Li means that if you are running something that does not need much current (an amp say) - Li are really good at keeping volts high. So you may not realise that it's near empty until it's really near empty. Lead Acids will tend to pump out amps at the expense of volts - this usually is more detectable before it is too late.

I'd suggest NOT wiring any accessories to an R3 battery that is on when the engine is not - lead/acid or Li - The battery is basically on the limit for a 2300cc engine. I have one twice the size in my 1979 Guzzi.

Get a proper battery tender rather than jumping - esp on smaller batteries. 20aH is not BIG.

Click to expand...

Either sydney or not far far south,

barbagris said:

Most kind.

@Rusty Bojangles - important is WHERE in OZ? - The colder part or warmer part. It need not be subzero - sub 6 or 7° can be enough to peeve one.

If you are NOT in the always warm bit then I would suggest that it is better really to have an AGM and carry a small lithium booster pack in your jacket pocket.

If you are indeed always in the warm bit - then go for Lithium as they will not dry out. All lead/acid batteries do eventually - even "sealed" ones.

There is always a trade off somewhere though - and the overall capacity of most Li is lower.
Most 20aH lead/acid replacements are about 7-8aH.
So you can run a Li down really fast if the engine is not recharging. The plus is that they tend to also recharge faster because they're smaller.

The Chemistry of Li means that if you are running something that does not need much current (an amp say) - Li are really good at keeping volts high. So you may not realise that it's near empty until it's really near empty. Lead Acids will tend to pump out amps at the expense of volts - this usually is more detectable before it is too late.

I'd suggest NOT wiring any accessories to an R3 battery that is on when the engine is not - lead/acid or Li - The battery is basically on the limit for a 2300cc engine. I have one twice the size in my 1979 Guzzi.

Get a proper battery tender rather than jumping - esp on smaller batteries. 20aH is not BIG.

Click to expand...

Either Sydney or just south of, so it can get cold but I hear warming up the battery by leaving the headlight on for a few minutes will do the trick for Li.
Great info man thanks a bunch