Lift Adapter and Some Questions:

I have a question about lifting a Rocket 3 touring for those of you who have actually done it. I am in the process of making an aluminum jig for lifting my bike. It consist of an 1/4" aluminum plate with a piece of 3/16" aluminum angle attached at each end allowing the plate to be bolted to the two center stand holes in the frame. I have posted a picture of my progress (Note: It is not yet even close to being done). It will have a plate fastened to the jig, as shown, which will extend under the engine. I plan to attach an aluminum angle at the end of the plate so as to actually extend out far enough so as to be under the floorboard mounting bar. I then plan to make some adjustable block so as to actually have the forward portion of the engine plate putting most of the lifting pressure on the floorboard mounting bars instead of the bottom of the engine. I'm kind of aiming for the design of a couple of brackets (as shown) that I have seen posted on the forum. My design would put most of the "forward lift " on the floorboard mounting bar instead of the bottom of the engine. I have read mix comments on putting lifting force on the bottom of the engine. It appears the other two designs I have shown don't have an issue with that.

So here is my question...using a typical motorcycle jack with the usual 13" arm spacing.....If you put one lift surface under the center stand plate and the other under the engine, will this lift and balance the whole bike. I have seen pictures on the forum and this appears to be the case. The question I have is really about the balance point of the bike during the lifting process and secondly about putting some of the lifting pressure on the bottom of the engine. I know this has been discuss to one degree or another in the past, but....any comments?

You have to play with where you place the jack especially on the R3T as they are rear heavy( hard bags and contents) a little movement of the jack one way or the other is all it takes to get the balance right and up the bike goes.a lot of people put straps on for safety I put a small jack under opposite tire I'm taking off for safety just remember to remove before letting the bike down.

Fingers said:

You have to play with where you place the jack especially on the R3T as they are rear heavy( hard bags and contents) a little movement of the jack one way or the other is all it takes to get the balance right and up the bike goes.a lot of people put straps on for safety I put a small jack under opposite tire I'm taking off for safety just remember to remove before letting the bike down.

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I made one up sometime ago out of a bit of scrap steel, and it utilised the two lugs on the frame that are maybe for a centre stand ,a bit of testing and you get the bike to balance nicely ,on my R3T the front sits on the concrete when the stand is raised but you can lift the front wheel with ease and just place a small jack under the frame ,there are photos here somewhere ,I don't believe in buying a simple bit of gear like that when I have all the gear to make one stronger than a commercial one and at little cost.

Those are good points from both of you. I had already planned on doing some additional blocking, jacking or lifting under other areas should it seem a little unstable front to back. Popping the bags off I am sure that would remove 30 lbs from the rear of the bike if it appeared to be heavy in back. From your comments, that doesn't appear to be an issue. Straping the bike down In some way is pretty much recommended by everyone. I'm looking at lifting it mainly to removing tires for changing them out and lifting it up so I can clean the wheels. I currently drive my bike up on a couple of 2x6 boards when I change the oil and that gives me plenty of clearance. No need to put special holes in my plate to doing oil changes. Who would want oil all over their lift. The blocks also gives me more room for sliding the jack underneath the bike.

Any comments on the front support of the lift pressing on the bottom of the engine? Do you think I need to go out to the floorboard mount support bars?

I just use small car jack stands under the floorboard mounts and my racing floor jack with a rubber insert. I slide one under the kickstand off side and jack up the kickstand side. Works for tire changes too.

Bedifferent said:

Those are good points from both of you. I had already planned on doing some additional blocking, jacking or lifting under other areas should it seem a little unstable front to back. Popping the bags off I am sure that would remove 30 lbs from the rear of the bike if it appeared to be heavy in back. From your comments, that doesn't appear to be an issue. Straping the bike down In some way is pretty much recommended by everyone. I'm looking at lifting it mainly to removing tires for changing them out and lifting it up so I can clean the wheels. I currently drive my bike up on a couple of 2x6 boards when I change the oil and that gives me plenty of clearance. No need to put special holes in my plate to doing oil changes. Who would want oil all over their lift. The blocks also gives me more room for sliding the jack underneath the bike.

Any comments on the front support of the lift pressing on the bottom of the engine? Do you think I need to go out to the floorboard mount support bars?

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Almost all the weight is taken by the pins through the lugs,the small amount of weight taken by the front support is minimal more of a balance point than a weight bearing point,

I agree I use apiece of plywood the size of the oil pan to distribute the weight evenly.

cusso ken said:

Almost all the weight is taken by the pins through the lugs,the small amount of weight taken by the front support is minimal more of a balance point than a weight bearing point,

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Well, if that is the case, I could save myself a lot of work and finish my jig up in a flash. All that's left is for me to mount the forward piece of angle based on the arm spacing of whatever lift I buy and add a few pads to the plate where it might rest on the bottom of the engine. I read all of the posts about lifts again and no one else seems to be concerned about the weight as long as most of the weight is placed on the rear bracket I made. I mounted the jig and I have a little over 1/8" spacing between the plate as it set parallel to the bottom surface of the engine. That just enough for some thin pads or shims to rest on the engine bottom. I may drill one hole to provide some relief for one of the drain plugs. Thanks

I understand that the earlier R3s had larger holes in the lugs at the balance point. What year did the R3 go to the smaller holes, and what size are they?

VABird said:

I understand that the earlier R3s had larger holes in the lugs at the balance point. What year did the R3 go to the smaller holes, and what size are they?

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Not sure what size the smaller hole was so I opened them up to 1/2 inch for a paddock stand I bought from flipmeisters. If I were you I just make the larger size and include a 1/2 inch drill bit for those that need it.
I would think that anyone that is going to do maintance on their own bike would be able to drill out their own holes. That way you only have to make one type of brackets. Just my thought.