leg shields - anyone found a quick way of fitting them?

[Mike Sands]

They should take 2 minutes, but they are so fiddly it has taken me best part of 45 minutes to get them fitted. Best way would be to be able to leave the hardware fastened to the plastic and have some kind of quick release clip at the back?
Mike

 

[barbagris]

They should take 2 minutes, but they are so fiddly it has taken me best part of 45 minutes to get them fitted. Best way would be to be able to leave the hardware fastened to the plastic and have some kind of quick release clip at the back?
Mike

Mike, I'm intrigued - What leg shields? - Triumph Part?

I made a set that fit onto the front crash bar using hose clamps.

 

[Mike Sands]

yeah I saw your pic of those BB. But these are the standard Triumph ones - well actually they aren't, cos I have had some taller ones made (£36). These close the gap between the top of the standard leg shields and the bottom of the standard Roadster screen. I did this because when I attached some bits of thread to various parts to see where the buffeting was coming from - that little gap was a major culprit.
But the taller bits of perpsex use the same fiddly clamps. I'm trying to get my conversion time from mean muscle bike to comfortable tourer down to less than an hour (that involves fitting the legshields, the screen inc fitting kit, the satnav, rear rack, seat with rider backrest, and standard softer triumph shocks for the sportier hagon Nitros)
Mike

 

[barbagris]

I'm missing something here - I cant find any leg shields on the Triumph accessories configuration page/site thing.

Are you referring to the fork mounted lowers? If so - yes they're fiddly clamps - BUT they need to be VERY rigid. Mine were S/Hand and show signs of ceding a bit due to torsion - Air pressure at speed would be my guess. The top edge around the indicators does flex.

Would like to see a piccie of your modified leg shields though :Tip-Hat:

 

[Mike Sands]

Solved it. A captive nut behind the front bracket holds most of the pieces together and keeps the bolt pointing in a good direction. Fairly simple job then to clip the smaller curved brackets on and tighten them up.
I call them leg shields because they stop your leags being forced apart during high speed cruising, but yes I do mean the fork lowers.
The taller ones I had made do flex at the top, but they still work well.
Mike

 

[xhdskip]

Mike,
i'd like to see a picture of what you did if possible,
thanks,
skip

 

[Mike Sands]

jeez you are up early XHD - must be about 3:00am your time? I'm having a day farkling tomorrow so I will try and get some pics. FWIW summer touring is sorted - bigger lower fork shields, cut down standard Roadster screen, and bracket to angle that screen further backwards now means I can get a smooth airflow to the helmet (so the helmet vents work), and I don't get my arms and chest blasted backwards so I can use the cool looking gel roadster dual seat. Plan is now to buy a tall CeeBailey blade to use in winter and take the airflow right over the top.
Mike

 

[barbagris]

You may find it easier to put the bolt in from the back and the nut on the front. I know it's not the way mine came, but it is easier to do.

Are you suggesting using a nut&bolt back to front? - You have to be from the Antipodes.

 

[Mike Sands]

You may find it easier to put the bolt in from the back and the nut on the front. I know it's not the way mine came, but it is easier to do.

Yes that's probably easier but my way is better. Now the plastic, the long fishplate thing, and the two longer curved brackets are all held together (by a thin nut on each bolt. This is then sandwiched by the shorter curved bracket and the outer nut after you offer the assembly up to the fork leg.
Mind you it still all looks like a dog's breakfast, but I guess it's a compromise worth doing unless you want to go out and buy a BMW RT for touring.
Mike
PS electronic cruise control next