Kill Switch problems on 07 R3

[Rockhard]

Looking for guidance from anyone who has had problems with their switch. I have an 07 R3 with 110,000 klms which recently has developed a problem with the kill switch, ie. it turns itself on?

I have pulled it apart and cleaned all contact points but the problem still exists?

Thinking about isolating the switch? Not sure? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Looking for guidance from anyone who has had problems with their switch. I have an 07 R3 with 110,000 klms which recently has developed a problem with the kill switch, ie. it turns itself on?

I have pulled it apart and cleaned all contact points but the problem still exists?

Thinking about isolating the switch? Not sure? Any help would be appreciated.

Kids
wife
girlfriends
neighbors
lol

 

[Ishrub]

Looking for guidance from anyone who has had problems with their switch. I have an 07 R3 with 110,000 klms which recently has developed a problem with the kill switch, ie. it turns itself on?

I have pulled it apart and cleaned all contact points but the problem still exists?

Thinking about isolating the switch? Not sure? Any help would be appreciated.

Borrow or buy another used on ebay or Pinwall direct to test.
| Pinwall Cycle Parts, Inc | Your one stop, motorcycle shop for used parts, service, accessories, & apparel
That should isolate the issue to the switch or confirm it is elsewhere in the electrical system.
Your lucky, the kill RH switchblock is the cheap side with fewer functions/failures and hence used cost is lower. It is also much more generic in wiring and many aftermarket or other bike brands/models could do the job, possibly even cheap Chinese <$10 ones as it is just a start stop and kill switch. You just have to match wires + and -.

 

[Rockhard]

Borrow or buy another used on ebay or Pinwall direct to test.
| Pinwall Cycle Parts, Inc | Your one stop, motorcycle shop for used parts, service, accessories, & apparel
That should isolate the issue to the switch or confirm it is elsewhere in the electrical system.
Your lucky, the kill RH switchblock is the cheap side with fewer functions/failures and hence used cost is lower. It is also much more generic in wiring and many aftermarket or other bike brands/models could do the job, possibly even cheap Chinese <$10 ones as it is just a start stop and kill switch. You just have to match wires + and -.

Thx mate…already looked for 2nd hand….cheap? If ya call $100 cheap! Thinking I may do away with it altogether?

 

[TURBO200R4]

Does the kill switch still have the spring loaded rocker
How does it manage to move?

 

[Rockhard]

Does the kill switch still have the spring loaded rocker
How does it manage to move?

All intact….have no clue why it moves? Or does it in fact move? does it just short out? Doesn’t appear that anything is wrong….but it sure as hell is!

 

[Ishrub]

Much more likely an intermittent electrical contact problem elsewhere. Check your connections of ECU, battery terminals and earthing points and try wiggling the handle bars when stationary in neutral and running. Early model Rockets also had a lot of flickering power supply from failing ignition switches which can be repaired but it is a PITA to remove. Prop up tank and try jiggling wires under tank and around ignition switch while running in neutral.
Parking first is recommended!

 

[Rockhard]

Much more likely an intermittent electrical contact problem elsewhere. Check your connections of ECU, battery terminals and earthing points and try wiggling the handle bars when stationary in neutral and running. Early model Rockets also had a lot of flickering power supply from failing ignition switches which can be repaired but it is a PITA to remove. Prop up tank and try jiggling wires under tank and around ignition switch while running in neutral.
Parking first is recommended!

I’m on my 3rd ignition barrel Andistill have problems there! But in this instance I think it’s definitely the kill switch because it rights itself after clicking the switch on and off?

 

[Ishrub]

I’m on my 3rd ignition barrel Andistill have problems there! But in this instance I think it’s definitely the kill switch because it rights itself after clicking the switch on and off?

My guess is corrosion in a connector somewhere reducing current that is overcome with a burst of current when you flick kill switch back and forth. Sound like it could be simple if you disconnect any obvious wires and clean and use some electrical contact cleaning spray NOT WD 40. If you do a test after each clean up you will possibly identify the actual one.
If you do the lot at once and it works you will never know which was the problem one.

 

[Rockhard]

Yeah, true enough…I’ve just done the kill switch….next I’ll try the starter switch? Thx for your input mate…..much appreciated