INJECTOR INFO AND PROBLEMS

Here is another option.

Rather than pull the injectors to clean or replace, I have used this tool from OTC a couple of times with good results. Don't own one but a chum of mine let's me borrow his when needed. I imagine some auto shops would rent them out.
You disable the fuel pump circuit, tie into the fuel rail (blocking flow back to the fuel tank) and provide concentrated injector cleaner to the injectors with the engine running. The engine will run on the cleaner by itself since it is petroleum based. You fill the canister with your choice of concentrate, pressurize the canister with air pressure, set your regulator to the prescribed fuel rail pressure and start the vehicle. Let it idle until the bottle is empty (may take 1/2 an hour or so). Relatively simple to use and cleans the injectors a lot faster than diluting the concentrated cleaner in the fuel, going through possibly several tanks of gas before things run right.
81VwNnczt-L._AC_SY550_.jpg
7000a-1_0.jpg


Edit, Now that I think about it, on a motorcycle you could empty the fuel tank, pour a couple of bottles of this stuff in the tank (undiluted) and let it run full strength without the need for the tool. I don't think the concentrate would affect the fuel pump circuit?
 
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Here is another option.

Rather than pull the injectors to clean or replace, I have used this tool from OTC a couple of times with good results. Don't own one but a chum of mine let's me borrow his when needed. I imagine some auto shops would rent them out.
You disable the fuel pump circuit, tie into the fuel rail (blocking flow back to the fuel tank) and provide concentrated injector cleaner to the injectors with the engine running. The engine will run on the cleaner by itself since it is petroleum based. You fill the canister with your choice of concentrate, pressurize the canister with air pressure, set your regulator to the prescribed fuel rail pressure and start the vehicle. Let it idle until the bottle is empty (may take 1/2 an hour or so). Relatively simple to use and cleans the injectors a lot faster than diluting the concentrated cleaner in the fuel, going through possibly several tanks of gas before things run right.
81VwNnczt-L._AC_SY550_.jpg
7000a-1_0.jpg


Edit, Now that I think about it, on a motorcycle you could empty the fuel tank, pour a couple of bottles of this stuff in the tank (undiluted) and let it run full strength without the need for the tool. I don't think the concentrate would affect the fuel pump circuit?

this problem has been with me for a while so quite a while back i checked on a price of the injector tool i think about $145 so i thought i would make one so i got a little o2 bottle and took off the valve and was going to put a tube to the bottom then things got busy at the shop and i tried a few cans of sea foam and forgot about the injector tool. thanks for reminding me.
 
Thanks for your input on my problem
This problem has been testing me for a long time.
Starting with hard cold starts
Jump starting with durango running and then using my big charger (17 volts) .
Then to no cold starts.
I built an injector cleaner managed to get it started and run a can of berryman injector cleaner thur it (use eye protection the the cleaner stings lol)
Started to work checking coil ground circuit (cleaned positive cables and all my ground cables) was mainly checking with 12 test light clamp on positive post and probe on negitive coil terminal
With key off test light on ecu is grounded with key/ignition on light goes out ecu is ungrounded cranking test light will blink ecu grounding coil to make the coil/spark fire the plug.
In my case the ecu not grounding the coils good so i changed the ecu it then started to work perfect untill i decided to go for a ride Saturday
No start and no ecu grounding the coils so after a few more checks i grabbed the wires at the ecu and pushed them into the connectors and it cranked right up.
So i took a long ride and not one single problem. Yes yes
As most mechanics know it was not
simple as that a lot of testing went into fixing this problem.
I might add much early i had A pcv installed and i took it out that may have spread the terminals on ecu.
For now it is working i will deal with the terminals later
 
up date
after checking crank sensor for the forth time my guy pushed probes into the ecu connector that pushed the terminals into the ecu and it fire up.
cleaned ecu pins and connector pins
still have hard starting.
will start another thread.
Hi Turbo, How badly corroded are the terminals, I did this on corroded I instrument terminal block and even took a Q-tip and wiped it on the connection on the back of the instrument speedo on my R3T and it did a great job, nice and shinny clean, but I let it soak for about a half hour and neutralized it and lastly dried it good with a good spray of spray contact cleaner, cleaned a few like that, the coil primary connection's, ect... Anything that looks corroded. GL hope it helps, and make sure they aren't lose, may have to recrimp a little to tighten, I didn't put any dielectric grease on the ECU, or the injectors, because of the low voltage signal wires. Don't want to go the expense for the ECU if I don't have to, I guess if it runs worse after dielectric grease you can spray it out with the contact cleaner. PS. Used solo cups for the mixtures. Heat the water a little in the microwave too, or use hot water 😁

I also glued a straw for a gumout carburetor cleaner spray can on I think a 4mm gas hose, I used gorilla glue and let it dry for 24 hrs, and put a bolt in the gas line and clamped from the tank/fuel pump and turned over while spraying, wrapped a Bungie around the clutch lever, thought it would run but it didn't, I think some got through?? Cranked it for like 15 sec. At a time, a few times. But it ran better. Shouldn't take too long to do, and hey it may work, I saw a guy do a car that way on YouTube and it ran the whole can through, he also did it on a bench with a battery and switch hooked up to the individual injectors, you could see the difference. Found it.

Hey it's pretty easy, I didn't pull any fuses cause I think it won't start without the fuse, plus I'm not the greatest at reading diagrams, thought it was easier to block the hose. Although that tool looks like it would be better. Does anyone have a Link for the tool, canister filled with carb cleaner and hose contraption/injector cleaner??? Guess I can do a search. There's 3
OTC 7448A FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER, CANISTER-TYPE | Tool Discounter
TABODD Non-dismantle Fuel Injector Cleaner Kit 800ML, Automotive Non-dismantle Fuel Injector Tester & Cleaner Fuel System Fuel Injector Cleaner Tool Set for Petrol Cars(0-145PSI) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083NF3DXM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_EQQAHAJDKH9XNCYGT9MA
C80 Non-Dismantle Gasoline Auto Fuel Injector Cleaner Kit and Tester for Petrol EFI Throttle Car 600ML Tank 140PSI Throttle Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SB44888/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_G6GYR0WQ00HS7MSB7G5P


GL hope you get it fixed soon, weather getting nice, but it's always warm down there you lucky R3 lover😁👍🤙😉😎
 
the ecu and connector showed no sign of corrosion.
the sealing oring had rolled over in one spot but the connector was snapped in.
i was given several clues
changed computers and it worked for a while
pushed on the ecu connector and that worked one time.
i did a lot of wiggle tests with out success
i was working on a cool morning no start problem when the no start problem hit crank sensor bad connector problem. (ecu would not fire coils)
i am back to the cool morning problem
i am thinking either bad gas e10 or fuel pressure problem
i know it will flow enough fuel volume but maybe weak in morning if i hook my durango up to the bike i think the extra voltage running would led the bike start.
starting fluid will make it come alive and run good the rest of the day.
i have done the stepper motor/ tps adjust and balanced the throttles.
idle set at 850 but now when slowing down pull clutch it will drop to around 650/700 then will slowly raise to 850.
 
the ecu and connector showed no sign of corrosion.
the sealing oring had rolled over in one spot but the connector was snapped in.
i was given several clues
changed computers and it worked for a while
pushed on the ecu connector and that worked one time.
i did a lot of wiggle tests with out success
i was working on a cool morning no start problem when the no start problem hit crank sensor bad connector problem. (ecu would not fire coils)
i am back to the cool morning problem
i am thinking either bad gas e10 or fuel pressure problem
i know it will flow enough fuel volume but maybe weak in morning if i hook my durango up to the bike i think the extra voltage running would led the bike start.
starting fluid will make it come alive and run good the rest of the day.
i have done the stepper motor/ tps adjust and balanced the throttles.
idle set at 850 but now when slowing down pull clutch it will drop to around 650/700 then will slowly raise to 850.
Mine acted like that I set the TPS primary and secondary and I don't know why I adjusted the stepper motor adjustment a little and the idle went up and down and I think it stalled a couple times. I just moved it back to where I thought it was and rechecked the TPS and adjusted, I found putting what's it, a 4mm Phillips screw holding the TPS kept moving while tightening. I replaced with a hex head SS bolt, and I got this tool from harbor freight, might be able to find somewhere else. Got the setting spot on. Plus a lot easier. And it was back to normal idle and no stall. I think I originally made the stepper adjustment closer, turned out counter clockwise like 1 flat and got the what's it a 3mm clearance, but I didn't put the primaries tp's all the way down like you have to to adjust it, you have to have the in my case air filter plastic box off, don't like doing that, try not to.


Or this looks better, won't need to buy bits, and on Amazon, Free shipping with prime.
KAIFNT K402 Screwdriver Bit Set with Mini Ratchet Wrench, 1/4-Inch Drive, 34-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN1VL18/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_W3RC8AFNNSD0H808HHGD

Actually this has the thumb drive it helps.

BOLWHAO 90 degree Right Angle 1/4-Inch L-shaped Socket Wrench Mini Wrench Screwdriver Bit and Socket tool 2 pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7VYYLT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TV51382VW9GJRD4R04HM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And this set of bits.


If you don't have this set, I thought it was worth it's weight in gold.
LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDLCLML/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CFWQJZKM2QBQNJV3WKJ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And this should have the right bolt, I think 4mm, plus a lot more, I thought it was a good deal, SS I forget if I cut the length.

HVAZI 135pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 304 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Assortment Kit HVAZI 135pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 304 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Assortment Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

It's just weird when you wiggle the ECU connection it worked fine??? You sure there's no rust/corrosion between the wires to the connector block on the outside, undo the clips on both sides and look at them, that's what gets wet, the inside of the connection to ECU is sealed pretty well. Make sure the wires don't pull off very easy, like if the wires broken but the insulation is holding it on the connector block, I would gum that part up with some dielectric grease after making sure clean and tight, no problems.

Can't wait till your on the road again brother, GL
 
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