Easy Start Headlight Control Module for Triumph Dual Headlight Models Rocket 3 Street Triple Etc Can I use it instead of beaver
HansO
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while that is good for starting the bike it doesnt take the load of the ignition switch so the Eastern beaver kit is your best bet unless you have a little electrical knowhow you can build your own as I have done and I am sure that there are a few others that have done for a fraction of the cost
tdragger
Living Legend
Welcome to the site. You've come to the right place for answers. You'll also get better answers if you take a few minutes to go to your profile and tell us the year and model Rocket that you own. A general location of where you are is also helpful.
No, this device will not address the issue of the ignition switch failures on pre-11 models (and still debatable on the 11-13 models).
If you want to protect your ignition switch, you will have to go with a relay kit such as the Eastern Beaver kit. The goal is to re-route the heavy circuit lifting away from the ignition switch. You end up with a protected switch and dazzling bright lights.
On another note, the headlight circuit is also the starter circuit. When you turn the key on, the juice goes to the headlights. However, when you hit the starter button, a relay activates and routes the energy away from the headlights and down to the starter. Bottom line, the headlights turn off while the starter is activated. When you release the starter button, the headlights come back on.
The perception that this kit somehow helps with starting is so negligible that it borders on being misleading for the Rocket III. It might help other bikes but not the Rocket.
IMHO, it is actually more of a pain especially after you get your first ticket for failure to burn your headlight while driving when you forget to turn them on. Makes the EB kit a lot more affordable.
No, this device will not address the issue of the ignition switch failures on pre-11 models (and still debatable on the 11-13 models).
If you want to protect your ignition switch, you will have to go with a relay kit such as the Eastern Beaver kit. The goal is to re-route the heavy circuit lifting away from the ignition switch. You end up with a protected switch and dazzling bright lights.
On another note, the headlight circuit is also the starter circuit. When you turn the key on, the juice goes to the headlights. However, when you hit the starter button, a relay activates and routes the energy away from the headlights and down to the starter. Bottom line, the headlights turn off while the starter is activated. When you release the starter button, the headlights come back on.
The perception that this kit somehow helps with starting is so negligible that it borders on being misleading for the Rocket III. It might help other bikes but not the Rocket.
IMHO, it is actually more of a pain especially after you get your first ticket for failure to burn your headlight while driving when you forget to turn them on. Makes the EB kit a lot more affordable.
TheMadScientist
Supercharged
I am not sure if size is an issue, if it is not there are encapsulated relays out there called PAM-2 and PAM-4. Basically these relays are encapsulated in epoxy with pig tail leads. You could submerge them in water without damaging them and they are pretty cheap. The other relays i have seen being used for headlights have heat shrink, they look smaller but these are better protected. They run around $8-$9.
The PAM-2 coil can be controlled by 12 or 24 volts DC. It also has a red LED that comes on when relay is energized.
The PAM-4 coil can be controlled from a voltage range of anywhere from 9-40 volts DC. It handles more power.
They are the same size: Dimensions:1.5" H x 1" W x 0.88" D (3.81 x 2.54 x 2.2 cm)
They only consume about 15 mA of current which isn't much at all.
I have used these many times in different applications, they last for many years even when they are on 24 hours a day.
You can find them under several brand names: Space Age Electronics or Air Products and Controls are just a couple.
The load of the headlights wouldn't be much at all for these relays.
Just another option.
The PAM-2 coil can be controlled by 12 or 24 volts DC. It also has a red LED that comes on when relay is energized.
The PAM-4 coil can be controlled from a voltage range of anywhere from 9-40 volts DC. It handles more power.
They are the same size: Dimensions:1.5" H x 1" W x 0.88" D (3.81 x 2.54 x 2.2 cm)
They only consume about 15 mA of current which isn't much at all.
I have used these many times in different applications, they last for many years even when they are on 24 hours a day.
You can find them under several brand names: Space Age Electronics or Air Products and Controls are just a couple.
The load of the headlights wouldn't be much at all for these relays.
Just another option.
HansO
Not Taking Life Too Seriously
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Please correct me if I am wrong but acording to this website http://www.firelite.com/datasheets/df-52068.pdf unless I am reading it wrong the PAM-2 only handles 7 amps at the contacts and the PAM-4 handles 10 amps, the EB kit and also the one I have made is able to handle 30amp load which is what we need
TheMadScientist
Supercharged
The 7 amps is at 120 volts so that would equal 840 Watts. 30 amps at 12 volts is equal to 360 watts of power. A good indicator of power handling is size just like a resistor the bigger it is the more power it can handle.
The voltage given is for the coil side of relay not the load side.
TheMadScientist
Supercharged
Hanso
I will call their tech support department to verify this. I don't want to put false information out there.
I will call their tech support department to verify this. I don't want to put false information out there.
HansO
Not Taking Life Too Seriously
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2010
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- 13,447
- Location
- Batemans Bay, NSW, Aus
- Ride
- 08 Rocket III R.I.P now TEX Triumph Explorer
I'm no expert but that was how I read it and Am Sorry If I Am Wrong
It pricked up my ears when you said they were sealed... got me all excited
RKTNMYPKT
Village Idiot
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