Ignition issue...loose connectors?

[cunningham67]

Hello All,

I'm sure there is a thread on this forum with the exact same issues but I was hoping to just see if there was any updated or new info regarding my issue. I understand that Triumph has put sub par parts on either the ignition and/or the wires running to the connector. My 09 rocket 111 was working fine, then it started and then shut off..no power to fuel pump, lights, guages etc..horn and turn signals work. Have read threads pertaining to this issue whereby people have replaced ignition, run an Eastern Beaver Bypass etc.

I am a bit confused as to what to actually replace I took parts off of bike yesterday and raised tank...cleaned contact points etc. I jiggled the wires at the Pin connector and Voila...Bike had power and started...I dont see any obvious burned connector pins and I cannot determine which side is the culprit..male or female side..thought I had it isolated but it goes on and off with a jiggle of the wires.

So...what do I need to do to fix this? Should i replace the ignition? Should I just splice lower ignition wires? Why would I run an Eastern Beaver Bypass? should I just replace the connectors? HELP


Thanks for the help to this problem

Chris

 

[Blastedbones]

Hi! ok Eastern Beaver etc. The problem is that the OEM wiring sends all the power to the lights thru the thin wiring & ignition switch. Result , it all gets WAY too hot! & the solder joints at the bottom of the ignition barrel tend to go dry joint, or even melt! You can test the likelyhood of this by holding the wire loom to the ignition barrel once the bikes been running a while.. is it roasting hot? The Beaver kit is a fairly simple to fit ( has good instructions) relay that routes the headlight current away from the ignition barrel. Result? much cooler wiring, safe solder joints & brighter lights!.
Yours sounds like it's already failing.. You may need to remove the ignition barrel to check the solder. If you find the break, it can be resoldered.

 

[tdragger]

Chris,

Welcome to the board. Drop by the member section and introduce yourself. It looks like you are just up the road from me.

The failure is most likely in the ignition switch like the one shown below:



The headlight circuit runs the full load through the switch and this is where the failure occurs. When you jiggle the wire or move the handlebars, you may obtain a temporary connection but the part is blown.

First, you will need a new ignition switch. You can swap the key barrels in order to keep your keys the same.

Next, you must fit the Eastern Beaver H4 relay kit or fix up one of your own. It's only a matter of time before it fails again.

 

[cunningham67]

WIll DO and thanks for the info:Tip-Hat:

 

[davezrx]

thanks guys ,now i know the problem
got my rocket last week ,went for second ride yesterday got 100 yards end of road turned right it died ,but turned left it started !!!!!
so next question

whats the beaver kit ?

 

[Willtill]

thanks guys ,now i know the problem
got my rocket last week ,went for second ride yesterday got 100 yards end of road turned right it died ,but turned left it started !!!!!
so next question

whats the beaver kit ?

See here:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Triumph/triumph.html

Reroutes the headlamp power from the ignition switch

 

[owl]

There is also a thread that might help you here

 

[Battersea]

......................whats the beaver kit ?

Something to prevent the ign switch from taking full headlamp current. The EB kit, although good, is bloody expensive to get sent to UK - there is a cheaper alternative using parts sourced in the UK that works similarly to the Triumph upgrade for the early Roadsters. If you're interested I can email the details.