my passive keys has holes already for keyring. no need for any drilling
the fob will authenticate once at ignition on, never again until ignition off. once on, you can essentially turn the fob off and the bike will stay on.
I’ve never had cell interference even with fob/phone in same pocket.
 
Ok.....I called my local Triumph dealer and ordered two Passive Keys. $154 and 10 days to have in hand.
The parts guy patiently listened to me whine about the situation and when I took a breath,
he said "Yeah...it sucks. Will that be credit or debt". I said credit and he said "There'll be a $3 added on for
transaction fee". Argh
They'll need to do the pairing, since it requires the diagnostic tool (or equivalent). But it should take less than 30 minutes.
The "cool" factor goes away pretty quick when you've just filled up at a convenience store in Red Desert Wyoming with 105 deg (F),
20mph wind blowing and it won't start because the FOB battery decides it's time to die in the heat.
This is scary to think about. I've heard these kind of stories with FOB equipped bike riders.
I'm sticking with revenue generator.......
It'll still start with a dead FOB battery, though.
I hate them,a solution to a problem that didn't exist. I put a keyless ignition on mine, hated it, took it off and gave it away. If you left it with the bike it drained both the fob and bike batteries. Where I live the keys are in cars and bikes 24/7
The Rocket's system doesn't have that issue.
For the life of me, have yet to see an upside to fob’s. Consistently a PITA, yes. Upside, no. They accomplish nothing of added value, just cause problems. Truly, hate them. I want a simple, small, key, with a spare or two.
Harder to lose, break, or forget in the ignition. You can just hop on and ride. No physical mechanism to fail.
 
I'm curious about the passive VS smart key. What is the difference? I recently installed a keyless system on my '06 RIII Classic. The FOB can be programmed to automatically energize the ignition with the FOB in my pocket if I am within approx. 10' of the bike. It can also be programmed to turn the ignition on with a single press of a button. Is this what the new Generation Rocket keys do but requires two different keys? One key if you want automatic activation and a different key if you want to manually press a button to activate the ignition?
 
Regarding the smart vs passive keys:
  • If you have at least one key of either type that's paired with your Rocket, you can buy and pair additional keys. You should do that, so you have a backup. I keep my smart key in one pocket and a passive key in another pocket. That way if a key breaks, fails, or is lost, I can still get home.
  • The smart key can enable the ignition and allow you to start the bike using the same method as any passive key. It doesn't matter if the battery is missing, dead, or the fob is disabled. It'll still work as a passive key.
  • The downside to using the passive method to turn on the ignition is that it times out and turns off automatically. This mainly matters when trying to do things without the engine running, like loading a tune.
  • If you're far from home with no key then, yes, you probably need a tow. Not being able to start without a key is by design.
  • If you lose your only remaining key, you will then need to buy a new ECU as well ($$$). Don't cheap out--get backup passive keys so if you lose one you can get and pair a new one.
As far as what was wrong with mechanical keys, that's a matter of opinion. But issues included ice in the lock mechanism (that stranded me a couple times), failed lock mechanisms (stranded a couple of friends), accidentally leaving the key in the ignition making theft even easier, breaking the key off in the ignition (met one guy who did that), etc.
Einer,
Thanks for the tips.....especially the second point where you can use the FOB to start by using it as a passive key. I tried it by turning OFF the FOB,
hold the FOB against the antenna and it booted up to start. If this can be done, why even bother with a battery in the FOB? Maybe the battery allows starting from the FOB distance from your pocket? Revenue generator....
 
They'll need to do the pairing, since it requires the diagnostic tool (or equivalent). But it should take less than 30 minutes.

It'll still start with a dead FOB battery, though.

The Rocket's system doesn't have that issue.

Harder to lose, break, or forget in the ignition. You can just hop on and ride. No physical mechanism to fail.
Harder to lose? Please.

Forget in the ignition? Dementia, or? I knowingly leave my key in vehicles quite purposely, and often, living by choice in not-a-crap-hole, low crime area. I don’t even want a “key”; a switch would be fine with me. Shrug.

I can just “hop on and ride, no mechanism to fail”? Please. Have fiddle farted with the stupid fob (distance from receiver not right, battery low, switches self off) so often, hence longing for a plain azz key. Which would be less bulky, and less flexy/breakable, to boot. When even the dealer struggles to start the bike trying to sell it to me, it’s a sign. Bad design decision - sign.

Rest of the bike, really love; nitpicks, but overall great. Rocketimg across rural West last two days, loving it.

But for a crappy fob.
 
I agree with all the nay sayers, the fob is a PITA, and holding against the antenna does not always go that easy. I do it now and then to practice but takes a while to connect. Give me a key and ignition anytime, always know where the key is.
 
I find that I can start the bike with a dead or almost dead FOB by having it in my right front pocket. I stand next to the bike, move my right pocket to the antenna or close anyway and then I can still reach the clutch and ignition switch at the same time.

I have a FOB on my Indian Roadmaster and the nice thing with it is if you have an issue the screen will pop up a 4 digit PIN you can enter to get you moving again.
 
Yeah, I'm not following the method you guys are using trying to start with either the passive key or a fob with a flat battery. You don't need to have 3 hands. You don't need to pull the clutch in at the same time as hold the key & press the start/kill switch.

2 hands & no problem at all, right hand holds the flat fob / passive key at the antenna, left hand presses the start/kill switch to run. Once the dash lights up you're good to go, THEN pull in the clutch & start. You don't need to try & do 3 things at once. Just 2 cents worth that may help some.

Give it a go, it works & I'm pretty sure that's how the OM says to do it too.
 
Yeah, I'm not following the method you guys are using trying to start with either the passive key or a fob with a flat battery. You don't need to have 3 hands. You don't need to pull the clutch in at the same time as hold the key & press the start/kill switch.

2 hands & no problem at all, right hand holds the flat fob / passive key at the antenna, left hand presses the start/kill switch to run. Once the dash lights up you're good to go, THEN pull in the clutch & start. You don't need to try & do 3 things at once. Just 2 cents worth that may help some.

Give it a go, it works & I'm pretty sure that's how the OM says to do it too.
On the early rockets there is no way that you can start it with out holding the clutch in unless the clutch switch is shorted. If it is shorted then that will cause running problems.
I am curious if the newer rockets are like that or do you have a shorted clutch switch..
 
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