hesitation, kicking engine

fastfun said:

Ok, tnx Warp. because my laptopbro has his eveningholiday now(european time...) Tomorrow I will do so at once. I keep you posted.

Click to expand...

So after a day fiddling on the laptop the result :
We did set the F-L switch at 0
vacuumline dismantled from map,(put a plug into the line...),

However, with F-L set at 0 , AFR drops on to a 20, throttle between 1- 5 %, engine is running sh...
We tried to set F-TPS as well with PcV but that was working with the current TuneEcumap of the bike not possible.

I think I do need a TuneEcu basic map for my Roadie fromwhere we can do the F-tables setting.(PCv aswell TuneEcu)

In my former R111 (2004) I got your 7000map for that bike, but for some (Hinckley?) reason that 7000 map was not compatible with now , the Roadster.

What to do next in this ?

fastfun said:

So after a day fiddling on the laptop the result :
We did set the F-L switch at 0
vacuumline dismantled from map,(put a plug into the line...),

However, with F-L set at 0 , AFR drops on to a 20, throttle between 1- 5 %, engine is running sh...
We tried to set F-TPS as well with PcV but that was working with the current TuneEcumap of the bike not possible.

I think I do need a TuneEcu basic map for my Roadie fromwhere we can do the F-tables setting.(PCv aswell TuneEcu)

In my former R111 (2004) I got your 7000map for that bike, but for some (Hinckley?) reason that 7000 map was not compatible with now , the Roadster.

What to do next in this ?

Click to expand...

Ok I bet the A?F lean is because the lower 1-5% was using the Ltable fuel and more need to be added to the F table. If she is runing that lean I would not run her without adding fuel say maybe 10 to 15 % to start and see if the A?F changes in the right direction don't rung it long until you start seeing a good ratio. Also is your O2 sensor shut off so it will not pull the fuel you put in out. If not you can go the the A/F page and any 14.57 or so A/F can be changed to 14:1 and whether the O2 sensor is on or not it will not use it because there will be no ratio's in the narrow band width range. Do you have Tune Boy? Just curious as I do have a 2010 Roadster Map from TTS but its in Tune Boy V4 first year of the Roadster. I can send it to you if you want. Im not sure if your email address has changed? But let me know what it is and I will send it to you. I'll have to look around this old computer and see if I have the version V4 but also might have it on the Tech site with the older and great running V3.99, Or my bet is Pedro might still have it. Its these times when I wish I was not 975 miles from home

Take the map that worked on the 2004 and copy the tables into the new base map to make your base tune. You'll need to copy from 1000 rpm and up and paste into the new map, then transfer the lower values by hand, the RPM values on the left side changed from old to new.

The bike will run like ass when you zero the F-L switch until the F table is retuned to account for the missing L table data.

Leave the PCV alone, at this point you need to get a working base map installed before even bother to fine tune with PCV.

You won't be able to use the L tables without extreme revision to it, more work than just zeroing it out. Your map sensor is going to be at max values at around 1300-1500 RPM, that's why it's going super rich as you gently accelerate, because it's a low throttle opening your still in the L table. There's so high a map value because of the supercharger your oversized injectors are just dumping gobs and gobs of fuel, as that's what the far right L table values tell it to do.

There's nothing broken on your bike, it's just not tuned right.

Who do you have near you that can tune using TuneECU?

I'm not sure how your tuning her. But I have always wondered if the ecu would know whether you have a 1 bar or 2 bar map sensor since they are both sending a 5 volt signal. By this when you look at someone tuning on the dyno specifically the L table does the tune read the pressure numbers or does he tune in the highlighted cell. If its just a high lighted cell then the pressure numbers don't matter much. just the particular highlight cell which you can still add or take away fuel. I know it sounds crazy but if a 2 or 3 bar sensor does not throw a code and you can still see the cell your in you can click and add or subtract fuel or make note of the cell and change it along with the others and then flash her. I just thinking out loud and of course I am not a expert at anything except making Kielbasa

Am interested in if your doing this on a dyno or on the road like some of us poor fellers who do not have a tuner in the area.

warp9.9 said:

Ok I bet the A?F lean is because the lower 1-5% was using the Ltable fuel and more need to be added to the F table. If she is runing that lean I would not run her without adding fuel say maybe 10 to 15 % to start and see if the A?F changes in the right direction don't rung it long until you start seeing a good ratio. Also is your O2 sensor shut off so it will not pull the fuel you put in out. If not you can go the the A/F page and any 14.57 or so A/F can be changed to 14:1 and whether the O2 sensor is on or not it will not use it because there will be no ratio's in the narrow band width range. Do you have Tune Boy? Just curious as I do have a 2010 Roadster Map from TTS but its in Tune Boy V4 first year of the Roadster. I can send it to you if you want. Im not sure if your email address has changed? But let me know what it is and I will send it to you. I'll have to look around this old computer and see if I have the version V4 but also might have it on the Tech site with the older and great running V3.99, Or my bet is Pedro might still have it. Its these times when I wish I was not 975 miles from home

Click to expand...

Because my laptopbro went home at our european timetable I contact him again tomorrow. But if I'm correct we were using the F table for Tps setting, without the PcV. I'm belonging to those poor fellers who are convicted to roadtuning and that's as you know, a hell of a job

I don't have TuneBoy and I would love to get the V4 and if that's possible for you the V3.99. If so, don't I need a Tune Boykey? In my former Rlll 2004 I used a TuneBoy version from Richard, I sold that bike but I still have the TuneBoydisc of that bike.
For a 'fresh'start and a 1000miles less roadtune riding I think with your TuneBoyversion I already gets a basic table setting and from there I can fine tune those settings with the PcV,I think.

My emailadress didn't change (rocketdrie@live.nl) but after weeks(.) of attempts I didn't get a resetting emailcode from Rlllowners so I had to create a new account with the emailadress djustis@live.nl.
Both emailadresses are ok and under watch from the honorable D. Trump

Well there's some serious changes to the table required based on your injector size.

Step 1: how much more do they flow than stock as a percentage? I think it's about 110%.

Knowing that you need to cut F table values in half, will land you on the slightly rich side. Then go in and add 10% to the 1-5% area of the F table. That should give you a part throttle functional tune, but you'll then need to add fuel based on the air pressure curve of the supercharger.

Claviger said:

Take the map that worked on the 2004 and copy the tables into the new base map to make your base tune. You'll need to copy from 1000 rpm and up and paste into the new map, then transfer the lower values by hand, the RPM values on the left side changed from old to new.

The bike will run like ass when you zero the F-L switch until the F table is retuned to account for the missing L table data.

Leave the PCV alone, at this point you need to get a working base map installed before even bother to fine tune with PCV.

You won't be able to use the L tables without extreme revision to it, more work than just zeroing it out. Your map sensor is going to be at max values at around 1300-1500 RPM, that's why it's going super rich as you gently accelerate, because it's a low throttle opening your still in the L table. There's so high a map value because of the supercharger your oversized injectors are just dumping gobs and gobs of fuel, as that's what the far right L table values tell it to do.

There's nothing broken on your bike, it's just not tuned right.

Who do you have near you that can tune using TuneECU?

Click to expand...

Tnx for your response.
Yes, the bike runs like ass with a zero setting F-L switch.
And also a Yes, we already tried to copy the 2004 TuneEcumap from the Rlll2004 bike but that copying didn't succeed. Even a small F table range from this map didn't the Roadster accept : "not compatible"

And yes, I do have someone who is helping me with the tuning but meanwhile his hear has been turned into a grey mass.

fastfun said:

Because my laptopbro went home at our european timetable I contact him again tomorrow. But if I'm correct we were using the F table for Tps setting, without the PcV. I'm belonging to those poor fellers who are convicted to roadtuning and that's as you know, a hell of a job

I don't have TuneBoy and I would love to get the V4 and if that's possible for you the V3.99. If so, don't I need a Tune Boykey? In my former Rlll 2004 I used a TuneBoy version from Richard, I sold that bike but I still have the TuneBoydisc of that bike.
For a 'fresh'start and a 1000miles less roadtune riding I think with your TuneBoyversion I already gets a basic table setting and from there I can fine tune those settings with the PcV,I think.

My emailadress didn't change (rocketdrie@live.nl) but after weeks(.) of attempts I didn't get a resetting emailcode from Rlllowners so I had to create a new account with the emailadress djustis@live.nl.
Both emailadresses are ok and under watch from the honorable D. Trump

Click to expand...

Ok I will send you a invite from a site Called Rocket 3 Technology. Once you join and we get you situated for log in we have both of them tune boy programs the V4 is the one developed for the roadster but the 3.9 probably won't work on the roadster ecu. The V4 is like 93 mb so you will be able to down load from there. I will email you the map in fact you will find the V4 stuff in the ECU Software links. I will also add the map to that section before I loose it. Yes you would need a key.

as for the road tuning I think I know what you mean.


I called this Polish Auto Tune



recording A/F was done on a Wego III



Claviger might know if there is another better A/F recording system then the WEGO III Its been quite some time so theirs might be even better now. They made a double gauge set up not sure if they made a three gauge system so you could sample each cylinder separate but at the time they said I could go with the double and add one or do all three at once and then move to doing each cylinder separately. The other two gauges on the right are Boost and Inner-cooler in and out temperature .

keep a eye out for the invite as it might show up in your junk/spam mail until you tell your computer it is safe. You'll find so guys you know on there. So look around and any question ask away.

UPDATE
Invite has been sent to you. And I was right the V3.9 versions will not open Roadster Maps. But V4 will and so would live tuning software but the V4 would afford you a conversion opportunity I will explain in the e-mail to you.

Hopefully Warps base tune will work for you. If it won't I can get the 2004 base tune into a 2009+ format for use for you if you email them both to me at tcclaviger(at)gmail(dot)com.

@warp9.9 your idea regarding the 2 bar to replace the 1 bar and no software changes will work, to a degree. The sensor just outputs a voltage as you've alluded to, the ECU interprets that and scales it to a MAP value. With no way to rescale in the software you would need to datalog voltage output vs actual map value and mentally do the conversion while adjusting tables.

Alternatively you could use the PCV MAP scaling function as it can adapt to various voltage scales.

Hope you get this sorted, it's quite frustration having a boosted vehicle that won't play nice!!

Regarding widebands, you truly get what you pay for. I like the innovative brand products for simplicity of use, but, they're not necessarily the most accurate despite all their claims.

Per cylinder logging is fantastic if you can pull it off, but largely not required as long as compression is even, injectors flow closely, and the air flow is even to each cylinder. On a twin though, I would definitely do a perfect by cylinder map as they are much more temperamental and the differences in temperature of each jug can make a big difference.