Gears not engaging, after being rough with the gear shifter.

oteczdmitriy said:

I was also preparing to make a stand for the engine, but when the time came, I just turned it over and fastened it. I'm not the only one. And yes, it's safe.

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oteczdmitriy said:

The trick with two keys doesn't work for the Rocket flywheel. You will need a 32*1.5 thread puller

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oteczdmitriy said:

Before turning the engine over, remove the pan and clean it.

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R-III-R Turbo said:

A copy of the manual (downloadable from here) will tell you most of what you need to know, it has sections on engine removal and transmission disassembly & reassembly.
Based on your updates since and that it's a 2014, there is indeed also a strong probability of circlip dislocation and subsequent associated damage.
Even if the actuator bolt isn't the problem this time, it needs to be addressed while in there. Have seen it cause a shifter jam too besides the floppiness symptom which is most common.

As above best open it up and find out what the issue is first. But in any case you'll need a couple gaskets (RTV silicone from local auto parts shop will do all but the sump gasket may be best get the Triumph paper gasket) and a set of crankcase bolts. You can reuse the main bearing bolts. Will need a rotor brace and flywheel removal bolt, can give you dims if you're alright making them yourself. A clutch brace would make life easier though not essential.
And the manual is wrong where it says you need the sliding hammer tool & coupler to remove input shaft, you just use 3rd/4th input gear as the sliding hammer.

Also there's a few little upgrades can be done while in there if you're interested.

Can you make a video clip showing the noise etc?

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leocohete said:

@R-III-R Turbo this is the video you requested, let me know if you need an other one.
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The good news is that my miles-to-fill indicator, fuel level bar, gear indicator, neutral light, and the sidestand sensor (the one that kills the bike) all suddenly started working again. Before this issue, none of those were functioning.

when I start the bike, it feels like it wants to move forward as soon as I release the clutch — almost like it’s stuck in 1st or 2nd gear. No rattling or grinding noises when I started the bike , the single clank and loud rattling noise when heard when the issue first showed up while cruising at about 60 mph.

I’ve already ordered a new gasket, RTV silicone, and crankcase bolts, and I’ll be picking up the 32x1.5 thread puller that @oteczdmitriy recommended.

Does this sound like something minor (maybe something slipped/loose inside) or am I looking at a bigger teardown? Any pointers before I crack it open would be hugely appreciated.

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leocohete said:

pan meaning to the flat cover filled with oil and debris? btw I find a small leak on the front of the engine, but I don't know how to difference if its coolant or oil

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oteczdmitriy said:

Get ready for bad news, if something is loose, it's going to cause trouble. After hearing the creaking sound, many people wanted to find the stray mouse and simply let it go...

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TURBO200R4 said:

put it on a small strip of card board and put a match to it oil burns and coolant will pop a little but will not burn.

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