Fuel Guage after Tank Lift

I know that the low fuel light and the after market fuel gauge are not all that accurate but ever since I lifted my tank to plug in my cooling fan, I've noticed my needle drop like crazy on my last few rides. I used to be able to get about 200K before it hit anywhere near the red but I'm now in the red at 140K,and my low fuel light is NOT on! Is it possible that the thingamajiggy inside the tank fell a certain way and is now messed up? From what I've read on here, it looks like it works based on a voltage reading from a float, but the adjustment to fix it is way beyond me.

I also noticed a gas smell when riding the last couple of times but there is definitely no sign of a leak and the venting tubes seem free and clear. I'd say the tank was 2/3 full when I lifted it and I didn't even use the prop. I managed to get under there with a tennis ball holding it up. I may have lifted the tank fairly high for a moment or two, but definitely not for the length of the work I was doing.

Anybody had a similar experience with fuel reporting after lifting the tank?

I wish there was a way to lift the tank without removing the bearclaw... getting that thing back on with a snug fit is a real pain.

I'm thinking I'm going to fill up, get a jerry can, and run the engine dry so I know what my actual range is. I've always filled up when the light came on but others on here say they get another 60-70 km after the low light blinks up. Maybe I'll sell that fuel gauge seeing as it is so useless.

So far I've had no issues, I've lifted my tank probably 6 times in the last two months, used the prop and have has no issues with the gauges. My low fuel light seems to come on with about 7 to 8 litres remaining in the tank.

If all you did was plug the fan in check the low tension leads to the coils you might have popped one off while looking for the fan wire. suspect number two first since it is close to the fan plug then number one since it is fed off the end of the harness where the fan plug is. in Fact you should recrimp all of them as they work loose over time. If my memory servs me right this happend after the service check on the valves right?

warp9.9 said:

If all you did was plug the fan in check the low tension leads to the coils you might have popped one off while looking for the fan wire. suspect number two first since it is close to the fan plug then number one since it is fed off the end of the harness where the fan plug is. in Fact you should recrimp all of them as they work loose over time. If my memory servs me right this happend after the service check on the valves right?

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Yes, it was right after a service. They forgot to plug the fan in. I'll get under the tank tomorrow and have a look.

Forgive me for being dumb Warp. I'm only recently deciding to try and do my own troubleshooting on my bike since I don't think I could do worse than my local dealer... but, when you say to recrimp the low tension leads, are you referring to the the opposite end of where the spark plug connects? I've changed plugs before and the leads seem to snap on nice and snug to the plug, and after looking at the shop manual along with images of new leads online, I can only assume that I need to get into a small opening with some needle nose pliers and get the other end of the lead snug. Actually, I couldn't find a diagram that shows the leads in the manual.

Sometimes, I need things explained like I am a 5 year old.

Thanks!

I'm thinking I'm going to fill up, get a jerry can, and run the engine dry so I know what my actual range is. I've always filled up when the light came on but others on here say they get another 60-70 km after the low light blinks up. Maybe I'll sell that fuel gauge seeing as it is so useless.[/QUOTE]

I'm not thinking that is a good idea as the fuel pump use the gas to keep it cool. I try to never run lower than a 1/4 tank in anything I own that's fuel injected.

Rocket Scientist said:

I'm thinking I'm going to fill up, get a jerry can, and run the engine dry so I know what my actual range is. I've always filled up when the light came on but others on here say they get another 60-70 km after the low light blinks up. Maybe I'll sell that fuel gauge seeing as it is so useless.

Click to expand...

I'm not thinking that is a good idea as the fuel pump use the gas to keep it cool. I try to never run lower than a 1/4 tank in anything I own that's fuel injected.[/QUOTE]

Good to know. I'll not do this now.

I took a jerry one day the bike stopped at 200 uk ,miles..4.54 litres to the gallon

Loanstar said:

Forgive me for being dumb Warp. I'm only recently deciding to try and do my own troubleshooting on my bike since I don't think I could do worse than my local dealer... but, when you say to recrimp the low tension leads, are you referring to the the opposite end of where the spark plug connects? I've changed plugs before and the leads seem to snap on nice and snug to the plug, and after looking at the shop manual along with images of new leads online, I can only assume that I need to get into a small opening with some needle nose pliers and get the other end of the lead snug. Actually, I couldn't find a diagram that shows the leads in the manual.

Sometimes, I need things explained like I am a 5 year old.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Those are the high tension leads(plug wires). The low tension leads are the regular wires, two to each coil, that have insulated female connectors. Crimp them a bit tighter so that they grip the male parts on the coil better.

Found this corroded connector, disconnected, black and yellow wire.

Update from computer: So, I got under the tank and the leads all look good but I discovered a black and yellow wire on the right side of the tank that look like they should be connected. Maybe together, maybe to something else but I dug around in there and don't see any other loose connections. I removed the heat shrink from the yellow wire and it looks like there's gunk in both ends. It doesn't make sense that these wires go together so I'm going to check the shop manual. I have no idea what these are for and they are very tight to the harness with no slack at all.

I feel like I might be in over my head here.

Update 2:

I think the corroded yellow and black wire might be a red herring. I had the EB relay installed a couple of years ago when I was having some service done and I think these might be leftovers from that. But the leads right under the frame that are shown in the bottom two images seem quite loose. I'm guessing this is the end I need to crimp? I'm not sure how I'm going to get them out. I can't fit anything in there.