Front Brake Pad Pinch Bolt

It is going to require destruction. A reverse pulling drill bit. Just tried to heat it up and strip whatever meat was left in the cup. The other side came out easy. These bolts have been there since right before MV, 3 months. There is no rust. I am suspect it was cross threaded by a carless tech. I might take and old dental carbide burr on the high speed Dremel and slice it from the inside. I think I have some left from the dental drilling days.

Pretty sure that grabbing the pin with a vice grip is not going to do it either.

Cut the pin, removed the pads, tried turning the pin, no cigar.
 
Cut the pin, removed the pads, tried turning the pin, no cigar.
You cut the pin? Or as suggested you cut the pad ears and removed them leaving the pin to get a hold of along with the hex key? Oh and you said you had a spare caliper? If so I change my suggestion to use the different caliper even if you have to rebuild it you can take the parts out of the one. I've road your bike and felt them brakes. No doubt you can do that again .this time follow torque and get the R-clips or cotter pins. They're on there for a reason.
 
You cut the pin? Or as suggested you cut the pad ears and removed them leaving the pin to get a hold of along with the hex key? Oh and you said you had a spare caliper? If so I change my suggestion to use the different caliper even if you have to rebuild it you can take the parts out of the one. I've road your bike and felt them brakes. No doubt you can do that again .this time follow torque and get the R-clips or cotter pins. They're on there for a reason.

The hex is totally stripped and grabbing the pin does nothing. This is just a strange little bolt. Its going to be Turbo who takes the drill press or just his magic to it. Worse he can do is get the bolt out with little or no damage to the threads. This is why I keep cheap spares... for situations like this. Cut the pin because I wanted to place the damaged caliper pads in the replacement. Still, can break it apart and get the new seals, crush washers and the speed bleeder out of it.

Im keeping the R3 till she or me croak so I'll collect spares as they show cheap.

R U going to come to Leakey? Get on a plane to Houston and ride the Valkie. Im leaving Tuesday October 8th, in the morning. Will return after The Toro and his posy leave. Eight days in West Texas.
 
The hex is totally stripped and grabbing the pin does nothing. This is just a strange little bolt. Its going to be Turbo who takes the drill press or just his magic to it. Worse he can do is get the bolt out with little or no damage to the threads. This is why I keep cheap spares... for situations like this. Cut the pin because I wanted to place the damaged caliper pads in the replacement. Still, can break it apart and get the new seals, crush washers and the speed bleeder out of it.

Im keeping the R3 till she or me croak so I'll collect spares as they show cheap.

R U going to come to Leakey? Get on a plane to Houston and ride the Valkie. Im leaving Tuesday October 8th, in the morning. Will return after The Toro and his posy leave. Eight days in West Texas.
Ok like I said you should have cut the ears of the pads especially now that you said the pads were damaged leaving the pin whole. Also it will be harder to turn the first few turns because all you accomplished with the punch is to stake the bolt in harder. Not sure but I am realizing now you should have just took it to machinist instead of mucking it up further. So rebuild a spare to go in its place and **** can it would be my advice.
 
Ok like I said you should have cut the ears of the pads especially now that you said the pads were damaged leaving the pin whole. Also it will be harder to turn the first few turns because all you accomplished with the punch is to stake the bolt in harder. Not sure but I am realizing now you should have just took it to machinist instead of mucking it up further. So rebuild a spare to go in its place and **** can it would be my advice.
What? No BFH?? Gotta do this proper like!
 
First time i had to replace the front brakes had the same problem. Took a center punch (small one) and nailed the center. Then using a small drill bit drilled down deep enough to pass thread area. Proceeded with larger drill bits until it was just below the diameter of the pin thread area. Took a easy out and removed pin by hand. Factory had over torqued. Have replaced the pads numerous times since then and have found a little bit of anti squeeze goes a long way. No issues since then.
 
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