Bought a 1m Length of 12mm high tensile running thread, 2 high tensile nuts for $5.40

Looked into getting a high tensile bolt 320mm long, over $50 each, minimum quantity 10 off. OUCH!!
Why? What is your intent with HT threads and nuts instead of mild steel ones?
I can understand the aesthetic of replacing with a smooth shaft and hex or Allen ended bolt but not for another threaded rod with nuts either end.

Admittedly it is not a high mechanical load area but soft mild steel will take an impact and deform slightly without breaking but HT steel snaps.

A well regarded sidecar maker/fettler in Melbourne built about 5-10 of one of my old sidecar outfits with beautifully made leading link and 15" VW car rims laced to Suzuki hubs/discs on old GS1000 etc etc.
One problem though - he used HT long threaded rods for the bottom links between bike and chair.

After they broke together on the final loading of hitting a tiny cross road sealing joint to the entry ramp, and sent me at 60 mph straight into an concrete overpass wall, engineers for the insurance company inspected and honoured my claim but were shocked the HT threaded rod was used.
 
Why? What is your intent with HT threads and nuts instead of mild steel ones?
I can understand the aesthetic of replacing with a smooth shaft and hex or Allen ended bolt but not for another threaded rod with nuts either end.

Admittedly it is not a high mechanical load area but soft mild steel will take an impact and deform slightly without breaking but HT steel snaps.

A well regarded sidecar maker/fettler in Melbourne built about 5-10 of one of my old sidecar outfits with beautifully made leading link and 15" VW car rims laced to Suzuki hubs/discs on old GS1000 etc etc.
One problem though - he used HT long threaded rods for the bottom links between bike and chair.

After they broke together on the final loading of hitting a tiny cross road sealing joint to the entry ramp, and sent me at 60 mph straight into an concrete overpass wall, engineers for the insurance company inspected and honoured my claim but were shocked the HT threaded rod was used.
Mainly because the original bolt supplied from the factory is a high tensile bolt. Insurance companies are a funny lot...will find any reason not to pay out when the time comes. For the sake of $5, it's just not worth it. Anyway, I am convinced that the bars and or brackets will bend long before you break the bolt, or bend it. I dont think I'd like to try to remove a bent bolt, a snapped bolt wouldn't be an issue. Sadly, any incident that will cause the bolt to bend or snap will be the least of my worries....
 
Does anyone have experience, or heard anything about these on ebay?
Front Engine GUARD HIGHWAY CRASH Dresser Bar Triumph Rocket III Roadster Touring | eBay

I bought mine with a bit of rash on the left bar. This listing says it is compatible with every year but the 2010, but I would think it does fit, they just left it out of the list.
Yep had them fitted and work great despite being a a copy of original failed Triumph flat upper mounting tabs version. These have MUCH thicker metal tabs and work fine.

I got these and their rear version as well from Texas on eBay years ago and even freight combined was not a deal killer to have posted to Australia. If you hunt with Google you may also find them on Amazon and his own website.
 
Yep had them fitted and work great despite being a a copy of original failed Triumph flat upper mounting tabs version. These have MUCH thicker metal tabs and work fine.

I got these and their rear version as well from Texas on eBay years ago and even freight combined was not a deal killer to have posted to Australia. If you hunt with Google you may also find them on Amazon and his own website.

Thanks, Ishrub! I think I'll grab them, then!
 
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