For Mr 1olbull, sir.

[barbagris]

Mr Postie has just called. We we have some bits.

RED, YELLOW, GREEN and BLUE

Yes - GREEN & BLUE. Don't ask - Don't tell.

The yellow are supposedly real yellow (2200K) not the more habitual amber.

 

[barbagris]

More bits today. Still no heat sinks - but patience............

For interest of Steve @1olbull .

Positioned the photocell of a cellphone at 10cms from LED. No lens - just a plain 3*3 array. RED.

The PWM driver thingies allow me to play a bit.

Off - 0lux.
On at minimum - 132lux.
At full blast - 5006lux.

Now this is really not empirical as the phone sensor is by no means calibrated.

My "gut-feeling"-ometer (that is connected to the twin auto gate-ing luminosity detection units situated either side of the olfactory service and inset from the audio detectors) feels that about 1/3 of the PWM range would make a reasonable position light. i.e. SHINE not just GLOW, but not GLARE

For the life of me I cannot get the rear lens assembly apart

 

[31moppie]

How many pianos have your tuned with your cellphone?

One! But many times

 

[1olbull]

More bits today. Still no heat sinks - but patience............
For interest of Steve @1olbull .
Positioned the photocell of a cellphone at 10cms from LED. No lens - just a plain 3*3 array. RED.
The PWM driver thingies allow me to play a bit.
Off - 0lux.
On at minimum - 132lux.
At full blast - 5006lux.
Now this is really not empirical as the phone sensor is by no means calibrated.
My "gut-feeling"-ometer (that is connected to the twin auto gate-ing luminosity detection units situated either side of the olfactory service and inset from the audio detectors) feels that about 1/3 of the PWM range would make a reasonable position light. i.e. SHINE not just GLOW, but not GLARE
For the life of me I cannot get the rear lens assembly apart

Chris,
One fellow recently opened one with gentle prying from small screw driver.
Others have heated it up before prying. Apparently just glued.
Give it a go. If it fails I'll provide funds for another.
Any pix???

 

[barbagris]

Chris,
One fellow recently opened one with gentle prying from small screw driver.
Others have heated it up before prying. Apparently just glued.
Give it a go. If it fails I'll provide funds for another.
Any pix???

I have had mine in hot (though far from boiling) water and still no joy. Will go to boiling next. Most "super" glues let go around the 80°C mark.

I have made Carbon Fibre wedges - PTFE wedges - tried must things that are not metal - The lens looks brittle.

The other option would be to run a slitting saw around it - but we'll cross that bridge when it gets here.

I doubt the heatsinks will get here for another month - so I have time to sit, observe and think.

Pix - well I can try.

 

[1olbull]

Like I related, Amigo, I'll spring for another if it goes titz up.

 

[barbagris]

Very Quick&Dirty.

This last one is really not at all indicative as the LED is not positioned within the housing - BUT even so the lens starts to refract light about such that much above 2/3 power brings no appreciable improvement.

Cooling fans in case needed

Audi Heatsinks - in case I get inventive with angles

And this is really just for @DEcosse

Beginning to think I will need to be inventive with some of the internal ergonomics. remote locating the PWM module(s) for example. I found some little black plastic pots in my odd's and sods bin.

 

[Stillserving]

I've also had luck in the past (though not with a Rocket lens) by heating in an oven at 200-250° for 10-15 minutes to soften taillight/headlight assembly glues.

 

[barbagris]

@1olbull

So the last parts have arrived (well in advance of expectation). Seller included the 12 screws and the thermal paste

So now I have to open up that lens assembly (when the missus is not occupying her kitchen) - And start machining the heatsink to fit inside.

A rated 30W of LED power in RED - about 1200lumens. I can maybe put more on - but I'm not sure and will need to see how much metal is left after I trim.
With these 3 - I'd happily have them all as Tail/Brake. Tail would be PWM to about 100-120ma each (a little over 1W real each) - Brake a good 500ma each - closer to 700ma depending on heat.

- Any extras would be pulsing brake (on a timer). This I know will not raise temps much.

One thing I have to investigate more is the use of a diffuser over the LEDs - Not sure yet what materials to use for that.

 

[1olbull]

E_X_C_I_T_E_D!
Chris,
What is all this research costing you?
I'd like to pitch in . . .