Evap Canister Removal Question

[MountainMan]

Well, I went and did the mods - Jardine complete exhaust, Triple K&Ns, and a TuneECU tune on my '08 R3T. Those were the easy ones because there are lots of instructions and how-tos to get those things swapped out and off and running. The *****y thing seems to be the removal of the evap canister (included on my bike coutesy of the State of California). For those who have not seen one, they are mounted under the left side cover and take up a bunch of room.

The first hose goes from the evap can to the fuel tank vent. That one has been re-routed to the hose exiting to the underside of the bike.

The second hose is a vacuum line that hooks directly into all three throttle bodies on one end. On the other end, it hooks into an electrified valve mounted below the big evap can.. These have been diconnected at the TBs and the TBs are now fitted with plugs.

The third hose is connected only to TB #3 behind the throttle plate (same as the other vacuum connection). The other end hooks directly to a switch/valve-looking thing on the rear of the evap can. I plugged the throttle body side like I did with the other vacuum connections.

I just left the wire connection hanging and unhooked. The connector is of the two-wire variety.

OK, here's the questions:

1). Did I unhook this apparatus correctly?

2). If not, what do I need to do differently?

3). Where else should I look for causes of the Check Engine light. (no, I haven't ventured into the unknown realm of looking at codes on TuneECU yet).

Thanks for your response.

 

[atomsplitter]

Removal of the evap cannister won't affect the bike. Just route a hose from the tank connection or plug it. The cannister is supposed to capture vapor, condense and drain it. It's another tree hugging move that makes zero sense, but makes someone money (and they are not in any of our food chain).

 

[MountainMan]

OK, I ventured into the unknown realm.

Error codes are:

1) P0031 - Oxygen sensor heater short circuit to ground or open circuit.

2). P1690 - Malfunction CAN-Bus communication.

I'm trying to figure out whether either (or both) of these codes have to do with the disconnected 2-wire connector mounted on the valve hooked to the evap can, or the #3 TB vacuum line. In my experience, error codes rarely point directly to the source of the problem.

I took a look at the manual and actually found descriptions for each of the two codes. P0031 indicates the oxy sensor is (or has been) disconnected. I did this when I swapped out the exhaust. The P1690 error says the instrument cluster is disconnected. Same thing - I did it when I had the fuel tank raised.

I expect these codes to disappear after a few cycles - if, in fact, they are what they seem. I'm heading to town for a bit this afternoon to try out the new-fangled hardware/software. we'll see if I make it back in one piece.

 

[atomsplitter]

For the lambda sensor (O2) you'll need to turn that function off using your TuneECU to clear the error, it will then ignore the sensor input. On Tuneboy it has an O2 fitted box you simply uncheck and that clears the problem. The instrument cluster one is a bit more problematic, I'll defer to anyone with the California mods on that one.

 

[warp9.9]

For the lambda sensor (O2) you'll need to turn that function off using your TuneECU to clear the error, it will then ignore the sensor input. On Tuneboy it has an O2 fitted box you simply uncheck and that clears the problem. The instrument cluster one is a bit more problematic, I'll defer to anyone with the California mods on that one.

After you do what Atom said with the tune and load it hit the clear erros button and see if they both come back. If you turned the key on when you had the tank off it could have caused the error. I do not believe yousaid whether she runs or not but if it does you should be able to clear the cluster code.
Hope this helps.
I did not know you had a california model.

 

[GPMAZ]

If you've removed the O2 sensor, yup, you need to uncheck the O2 sensor box. As to the 1690, I'll bet you turned the key on with the instrument cluster unplugged. If so, clear it, you'll be fine.

 

[MountainMan]

After my little run to town and a check to see how quickly I passed 110 mph, the result was that the CE light went out. According to the instrument panel, all is right with the world. No evap can. I guess the error code thing is a false alarm and nothing to worry about.

I thought the tune I had had the Oxy sensor checked to off. I'll check it in the morning to make sure.

The first test run shows the following:

1). Not the head-snapper I expected with a 70% increase in h.p.. The dyno will tell the true story.

2). Really bad decel popping. That'll have to go.

3). Durn smooth on hard acceleration in all gears. Now it's time for optimization.

4). Idle is a little rough at about 850-875 - either warm or cold. Almost cammy. Almost surging.

Just for ****s and giggles, I'm going to load the Danish guy's tune in the morning (3xK%N, complete Jard exhaust, but with dB killers). He posted higher numbers than Bruce (from whom I got this tune off the .net site), but we'll see what the differeces are, or if they're noticable. I'm also going to try and break the neighbor's windows when I leave. I think I can do it.

I'm going to take the bike into Ron the Dyno Guy in south Portland and let him have a whack at it. I'd also love to have input from the horsepower Sensei's on this site, either before or during the dyno testing. If there is anything I should do before I go to the expensive dyno guy, I want to do it as early as possible.

Tomorrow, I'll give you a road report on the Danish guy's tune as a comparison. Remember, there are almost no TuneECU maps available for the mods setup I have (only two, to be exact). We will be breaking new published ground if we get something that works well. There are a bunch of Tuneboy maps available for my setup, but I don't know how to translate them to TuneECU. Tom hamburg provided a whole list of scary things that could happen and a bunch of possible points of devastating failure if one was to try and download a Tuneboy tune (.dat file) into TuneECU format (.hex file). Frying the ECU was at the top of the list.

I hate reinventing the ****ed wheel, but reinvent I will if there is no other way. I'm not afraid of data entry.

Dammit. No baseball tonight.

 

[Navigator]

Keith, you might try Grizdan's tune. It is a custom dyno tune and he has the trips. I can call him to to give him a heads up to check the site.

 

[barbagris]

Not sure it will work - different ECU models. I understood that T and R tunes wont work in standards and classics.

 

[warp9.9]

Not sure it will work - different ECU models. I understood that T and R tunes wont work in standards and classics.

your right and a tune from a roadster even will not work in a touring. They ECU looks the same but is hardwired different due to the ABS system on the roadster.