Easy ignition burnout fix? for RIII

budman

Nitrous
Joined
Apr 30, 2008
Messages
1,300
Location
Port Charlotte Florida
Ride
2006 standard
..looks like hieroglyphics to me..:stirthepot:..all I know is Eastern Beaver is plug and play, 'cept for one positap connector...us dummies will gladly pay for that..
 
Got me.
is that a spaghetti dinner or suppose to be something we should recognize?
Speaking of spaghetti, I'm hungry, thanks for posting that,
reminded me I haven't eaten all day...
or maybe I should say,
it looks from here like your transducer is hooked to the positronic drift differential relay,
maybe it's just my eyes playing tricks on me from hunger....
Guess I'll go eat somethin' an take another look....:bs:
 
Nice mod, it should take the load off the switch....... but may not increase the brightness of the headlights due to the thin wires in the loom.

I need another wiring wizard to check my work. I think this one rely mod would take the loads from Fuses 7,8,9,10 in the ignition switch without going through all of the wiring required with eastern beavers circuit plus offer a big saving. Someone please look this over to check my work. Thanks!
 
The switch went on mine thursday. I looked at the schematics a little.
Is too much power going thru the ignition switch the cause of failure?
Your schematic does make some sense but leave the relay accessible and I would carry a spare (or a jump wire) as they can go bad more often than ignition switche.
 
The switch went on mine thursday. I looked at the schematics a little.
Is too much power going thru the ignition switch the cause of failure?
Your schematic does make some sense but leave the relay accessible and I would carry a spare (or a jump wire) as they can go bad more often than ignition switche.

The load isn't enough to blow the fuse but is high enough over heat the contacts in the switch housing. The lights are pulling 55W and that generates enough heat to soften any solder and degrade the insulation. By removing the lights from the switch the load goes to only ECM load values (a few watts). If Triumph had built the switch to hold much larger wires (to carry the load) the heat would be dissipated, ergo no problem.

Think of it this way, suppose you had a garden hose and you were trying to put out a fire. As long as the fire isn't very big you have enough water. Now get your house fully involved in a fire, is your garden hose going to flow enough water to put it out? Now I attack your house fire with a 2.5 inch fire hose at 100 psig and it's out in two minutes (I watched a video of a fire crew do this, too cool).

The electrons flowing in a wire are doing the same thing as water in a hose. So if I I try to force more water through the hose than it's rated to hold, something is going to give. In the case of electricity, the extra restistance of too small a wire for the electron flow builds heat into the wire.

Oddly the very reason your electric stove/range coils get hot to boil water for your afternoon tea (Oolong or Earl Grey).
 
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