Do I really need the eager beaver?

I seems that when I crank, my headlights pretty much go out now, is that all the relay system does?

jetdok5 said:

I seems that when I crank, my headlights pretty much go out now, is that all the relay system does?

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You can fabricate your own bypass with relay or purchase the premade harness extension from eager beaver, but you should bypass the ignition switch for the headlight power as that is too much for the ignition switch contacts to handle and they will fail. Your dimming headlights at cranking indicates you are stressing the battery and could mean your ignition switch contacts are beginning to fail as they are creating resistance. You can resolder the contacts in the switch but if you bypass the headlight that will not be necessary.

jetdok5 said:

I seems that when I crank, my headlights pretty much go out now, is that all the relay system does?

Click to expand...

Your Header...Do I really need the eager beaver?
Members Echo.. YES !!!

Eastern Beaver are 1st class quality component well make and it works .
The kit with the switch lets you turn off the h/lite

I have one and many otherd do
Don/t risk a major breakdown

Headlights don't get dim, they go out...didn't Triumph think of this? My Goldwing lights go out when the starter is engaged also. It just seems silly that they would wire this thing to have that draw on the battery from the lights and starter at the same time. Would that not GREATLY reduce bulb life?
I seen to remember reading here somewhere that not all year R3's need the fix.

jetdok5 said:

I seems that when I crank, my headlights pretty much go out now, is that all the relay system does?

Click to expand...

I will answer your question with a question for you, Do you want be 50 miles from nowhere when your bike sputters and dies and you find red hot wires hanging below your ignition switch??
The headlights switch of while you are staring only leaving the pilot lights on the problem is not the starting, it is the constant high load of the power for the headlight coming thru the ign switch. With the EB or homemade relay harness you only end up with 3amps instead of the 20 + going thru there so without the load the ign switch no overheating
I made mine and have made them for a few of my mates in fact I will be putting one in the post for Mitch today cost of parts is only $40 compared to more than twice that from EB the other advantage of doing this is your lights will be brighter cos the power comes directly from battery

jetdok5 said:

Headlights don't get dim, they go out...didn't Triumph think of this? My Goldwing lights go out when the starter is engaged also. It just seems silly that they would wire this thing to have that draw on the battery from the lights and starter at the same time. Would that not GREATLY reduce bulb life?
I seen to remember reading here somewhere that not all year R3's need the fix.

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I could be wrong but I was thinking this fix was not stock until '11 model year

ewswartze said:

I could be wrong but I was thinking this fix was not stock until '11 model year

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Correct!, but the load stil goes thru dip switch and only uses 1 relay there is still going to be some resistance therefore lights not as bright as 2 relay fix

hanso said:

Correct!, but the load stil goes thru dip switch and only uses 1 relay there is still going to be some resistance therefore lights not as bright as 2 relay fix

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I thought the '11 models had a 2 relay bypass??

ewswartze said:

I thought the '11 models had a 2 relay bypass??

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The recall kit that I have seen only uses 1.
........ E gads maybe someone woke up finally got it right it has only taken them7 years

jetdok5 said:

Headlights don't get dim, they go out...didn't Triumph think of this? My Goldwing lights go out when the starter is engaged also. It just seems silly that they would wire this thing to have that draw on the battery from the lights and starter at the same time. Would that not GREATLY reduce bulb life?
I seen to remember reading here somewhere that not all year R3's need the fix.

Click to expand...

Depends on year of your bike and model. Newer bikes don't have the problem (as I understand it). If you have the older version (like my 05) then your ignition switch will carry the headlight load. If that's the case then the EB kit will prevent your ignition switch from boiling solder joints due to high amp load to the headlights. The EB kit puts battery power directly to the lights and bypasses the amp load to the ignition switch. The plus is the headlights go to full 55W power. With the power fed through the ignition the total watts is less because the wire diameter is too small to carry the full load. With too small wires comes more heat leading to the boiled solder joints.

Your headlights do go out because the cross-over relay shuts them off, redirecting power to the starter. When the starter button is released the relay flips back by spring action putting battery power back to the headlights. As long as headlight power goes through the ignition switch the lights are dimmer than if they were powered by the battery directly. The EB kit puts a large diameter wire between the headlights and the battery. The lo beam/ hi beam functions still work the same and the lo/hi beam shuts off when the starter button is depressed just like OEM. So functionality is preserved. The only thing the kit does is remove the power to the headlights from going though the ignition switch.

I installed the EB kit and have not regretted it for a second. Great mod. YOu can do it cheaper if you know how to wire relays and seal connections. If not, spend the dough for the EB stuff, good investment on switch longevity.