Committing trims to main table?

[gldean]

Do you guys commit your Fuel trims to the main table before you do a test ride or after.

Does this have to be committed before it will take on the tune download?

Thanks
Gary

 

[Jethro]

You do not have to commit for it to be in the tune, in fact IMO your

better off not committing until after you test run or dyno, so you can

make sure you like the change and even when you have it all dialed

in, it's nice to be able to see where you left off. Once you commit the

fuel trim goes back to zero.

 

[gldean]

Thanks fellas.

I read that in the manual and thought I'd ask if you guys left it open or not. (non-committed)

I also went back the Classic #44 tune which is after-market pipes and No Cat. Doesn't say which after market pipes, but it can't be but a few.
I did dial in the speedo correction. Do you all run 3300 on that figure? I also dialed the idle up to 850 . . . don't know why . . . just like it better than 820.

Dialed in 100's in the reduction squares so I've got full power, but the bike just seems to run better with that tune loaded. Won't know for sure till I put it on a Dyno.

Seemed to be a little rough around the edges and a bit rich on the Rocket #50-2 and 3 tunes. #3 is definitely too rich because it was tested with Tune-boy pods. But you can tell it's too rich on my bike because after a few test rides the inside of my Jardines have black soot starting to form.

I dialed in some fuel trim percentages in the 0-25% TP starting at 900 RPM and going to 3000RPM. Did a test with +1% in t he lower end and finished with +6% in the upper RPM's before I realized I just didn't like the 50-3 tune.

Starting over with the #44 . . . kinda fun though . . . sure couldn't do this kinda major ajustments in 3 minutes or MUCH less with a standard aspirated engine. 8)

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks in advance. . . I'm done rambling now.

 

[Jethro]

Wheel speed 3248

Idle 750, works best for me.

 

[gldean]

Wheel speed 3248

Idle 750, works best for me.

I'll try that number . . . the Jardine tune 50-2 or 3, can't remember now had that number at 3300.

We'll see.

Thanks!

 

[gldean]

Actually not quessing . . . stepping it up in percentages like the manual states. But I'm only applying it to the 0-25% Throttle Positions which will only affect the lower RPM's cause I would be closing down and not accelerating.

TP goes from 0-100 I put in 1% to 6% values as the RPM's went up the scale. Each test ride gave different results.

Now I'm going back to 0% on all fuel trims and adding a the same number at 0 that is entered in the 220 L Tables.

I'm all ears if I'm missing something here. Just playing with small numbers here, nothing to exceed 10% in any of the tables and I'm staying my arse away from the Timing/ignition tables for now.

I'll try the different speedo numbers and see which ones are more accurate . . . I don't have a GPS, but all I need to do it run a few mile markers down the highway or get clocked by one of those digital MPH warning carts the police like to put out to tell you how fast you're going.

Thanks!
Gary

You're totally guessing by dialing in some SOP estimate for fuel trim... and if you're putting in as much as 25% you basically need a new tune. The only intelligent way to adjust fuel trim without dyno tuning is with a WEGO Datalogger or similar.

See:

Also, I find a wheel constant of 3195 precisely matches my speedo to the MPH speed computed by my wheel rotational based SportVue, and GPS.

hombre

 

[gldean]

Heavy decel exhibits a lot of heavy popping, but normal decel is much better after balancing the F and L tables at zero (0) to match (1) TP across the RPM range.

Needed to add about 3% in the 0-1 TP at the 900-3000 RPM range cause that's where the majority of the decel popping is coming.

Don't think I'll be able to eliminate all the popping, but it's more controlled than before.

Now I need to get it on a dyno to see what's really going on.

BTW - She has no problem lifting the front wheel off the ground in 1st and 2nd now and God only knows what's happening after 3rd . . . can't seem to get outta 3rd . . . need a long empty road for that one. :twisted:

 

[gldean]

Nice going matching the 0% to 1% and 0* to 220*.

You're gonna have a tough time tuning with Tuneboy in the low RPMs until you get rid of closed loop via a Dynojet O2 eliminator. My bike accelerates better and sounds better in the low RPM range.

Yeah . . . . I'm just trying to quiet it down a bit . . . I don't do a lot of low RPM riding . . .usually in the 2K and up range. :lol:

Deceling won't be an issue most of the time cause I combine the awesome braking power of th R3 with a little compression breaking . . . just enough for her to rumble and the occasional snap, crackle and pop doesn't bother me much . . . as long it doesn't sound like I'm at a skeet shoot everytime I slow down.