History of clutch lifter pieces aka pullrods.jpg
 
I would also like some input on the wave washer it is about 15mm inside and the shaft is 13mm, the other end where the roller bearing is on is 17mm? Should I be concerned or is this difference the same on all of them, just doesn't seem right?
 
Thanks again for all your help. Another question pertaining to the clutch when I did the clutch on my HD it was recommended to replace the anti-chatter discs 13&14 and just adding another full-size fiber disc has anyone done this?
 

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Yeah if you go with an aftermarket clutch fibers set e.g. MTC, you leave the anti judder washer and spring (coned washer) out or they jam up the clutch.
You'll know coz if fibers are all the same inner diameter then no need for the washer and spring.

My MTC fibers clutch works fine without them.
I've not heard of someone do it with the stock fibers through - but you'd imagine the principle is the same (as long as it's a full size fiber as you said, not the larger internal diameter one that normally goes in that position)
 
I wonder if those anti judder washers and spring contribute to the fairly loud Clunk into gear. do they take slop and play out of the clutch pack? So there is always a bit of drag? I'm just wondering if an aftermarket set like the MTC, without the spring/washer would eliminate, or lessen, that loud Clunk. I guess its fairly harmless, but it doesn't sound like it is. And the funny thing is, ithe Clunk is worse when the bike is hot. When you'd expect the oil to be thin and creating less drag between the plates. Or is it that everything is expanded from the heat?
 
Thank you all for your help again the bike is still on the lift hopefully I get back to it before summer is over I'll update when I find my original problem the squealing.
 
I doubt anything wrong with clutch then.
Except you could replace that pull rod with the newer version of it (thicker head) while your'e in there.

What your sound might be is something a little loose maybe a rad cover or exhaust cover etc
Hi all, sorry for highjacking your topic, but I had a very similar issue with squeaking noise coming from the clutch when accelerating, especially in a first and second gears. I took the clutch cover off and when I removed the lifter peace I noticed that the Needle bearing had been wearing into the Thrust washer. The Thrust washer was so badly worn that it was nearly reduced to half its original thickness. I will upload pictures tomorrow. My question is, as my my Rocket 3 is 2006 Classic and I want to upgrade to T1172023 lifter peace do I need to change my pressure plate as well or just buy new lifter peace and No18 Bearing, pressure plate? Also, do I need any other upgrades? By the way Ive Barnett's clutch and springs fitted about 5 years ago.
 
Hi all, sorry for highjacking your topic, but I had a very similar issue with squeaking noise coming from the clutch when accelerating, especially in a first and second gears. I took the clutch cover off and when I removed the lifter peace I noticed that the Needle bearing had been wearing into the Thrust washer. The Thrust washer was so badly worn that it was nearly reduced to half its original thickness. I will upload pictures tomorrow. My question is, as my my Rocket 3 is 2006 Classic and I want to upgrade to T1172023 lifter peace do I need to change my pressure plate as well or just buy new lifter peace and No18 Bearing, pressure plate? Also, do I need any other upgrades? By the way Ive Barnett's clutch and springs fitted about 5 years ago.

Good job finding and catching the prob before too late.

Yeah you'll need a the new pullrod/lifter piece, pressure plate, pressure plate bearing and the wavy washer.
Might as well get a new lifter arm while at it.

54621.jpg




Only other thing whil in there is 50mm long spring tower bolts to replace the 5 stock ones.
Helps strengthen up the towers and avoid cracking at the back if the inner hub;

54623.jpg


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