ArekDeBoss
Turbocharged
And now it doesn't work at all :-(
Clutch sensor problem
- Thread starter ArekDeBoss
- Start date
Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
OK, May sound like a strange question, but do the horn and or turn signals still work right?
Reason being, looking at the schematic, the same ground is used for those three functions; clutch switch, horn, and turn signal relay. If yes, then I would look at the clutch wire between the switch on the bars and the ECU. If you were to take an independent wire running from ground and then ground the pin/tie into the clutch wire at the ecu, you would rule out the wiring and switch both. If it works, the problem is in the wiring or the switch, if it doesn't work, then you're looking at a potential ECU issue.
As far as the fuel gauge, not sure how long the issue has been going on for, but we all know that the system takes a few miles to update after fueling right? Well, I have also seen that sometimes when I have a failed start problem, along with the CEL coming on, I have also had the fuel gauge stay blank for a little while until it "resets" itself. Either way, I would tackle the clutch issue first and see what happens next.
Just popped into my head, but do you have a keyless ignition system added? I'm thinking no since you were riding w/ the clutch switch bypassed for awhile, but thought I'd ask for added info.
Reason being, looking at the schematic, the same ground is used for those three functions; clutch switch, horn, and turn signal relay. If yes, then I would look at the clutch wire between the switch on the bars and the ECU. If you were to take an independent wire running from ground and then ground the pin/tie into the clutch wire at the ecu, you would rule out the wiring and switch both. If it works, the problem is in the wiring or the switch, if it doesn't work, then you're looking at a potential ECU issue.
As far as the fuel gauge, not sure how long the issue has been going on for, but we all know that the system takes a few miles to update after fueling right? Well, I have also seen that sometimes when I have a failed start problem, along with the CEL coming on, I have also had the fuel gauge stay blank for a little while until it "resets" itself. Either way, I would tackle the clutch issue first and see what happens next.
Just popped into my head, but do you have a keyless ignition system added? I'm thinking no since you were riding w/ the clutch switch bypassed for awhile, but thought I'd ask for added info.
ArekDeBoss
Turbocharged
First of all thanks a lot for trying to help. Answering tour questions:
No keyless
Horn and indicators are both working fine
I lifted the tank and looked at the cables and plug and socket and they all look fine. I did not run parallel cables because i have no idea what should i connect them with on the other end . Cables from the sensor join few others from tne horn indicators etc in a decent size plug/ socket system underneath the tank. So i had no clue what shoild i connect parallel cables to.
And when i put the tanm back now i have a gap to the cover/ bear claw . Things are NOT going well today :-(
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Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
When it rains it pours....Need to take a break and try to make some hand sanitizer:
JRock
Turbocharged
The bear claw gap is because you don't have the tang slotted into the thingy.
Seriously, it's a pain in the a** to get it fitted sometimes. (I have no advice on your real problems)
Seriously, it's a pain in the a** to get it fitted sometimes. (I have no advice on your real problems)
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
You need to make sure the two tabs go in the bear claw as your are puting it up . Force your self to watch them instead of leaning over to look up for bolt alignment in the rear. Think tank tabs first then rotate down for the mounting bolts.
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
sometimes when dealing with probs u forget basics (me included)
key on/ in neutral with neutral light on/ kill switch on / ign on
i would go back and bridge the gap and let us know what happens.
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
as i recall there r two line up pins/tabs on the tank
it always seems like a two man job to get it back on
it always seems like a two man job to get it back on
Stillserving
LET'S GO BRANDON
The ground wires are black. The wire going to the ECU from the clutch switch is BLK/ORG. When you pull in the clutch, it applies the ground signal from the black wire through the switch to the BLK/ORG wires and sends that to the ECU.
If you take a piece of wire and attach one end to the battery NEG post and then touch it to the BLK/ORG wire that will do the same thing as pulling in the switch OR twisting the two wires together at the bar.
Touch the piece of wire from the NEG battery post to the following places to rule things out while seeing if it'll start:
1. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at the bar - the one going to the switch from the bike. (If it works, then the black ground wire is bad somewhere in the loom). If not move on...
2. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at under-tank connection/junction - Can't remember off the top of my head if there is one, but sounded like you were poking around one. (If it works, then the black/org wire is bad somewhere in the loom between the bar switch and the junction block).If not move on...
3. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at the ECU (pin A33 - Can't remember which connector that is). This is where is gets a little harder to do, as you have to do it with the ECU connected. You either need to use something to pierce the insulation of that wire or get a small metal object to push in the back of the connector and make contact with that pin (think scribe/paperclip/associated medical tool that a Vet may have?). (If it works, then the black/org wire is bad somewhere in the loom between the junction block and the ECU).
That's the whole circuit for the clutch switch...until it gets into the ECU and then that's where the software eggheads come into play.
Other option is to do the same thing with a multimeter, if you have one, and read for ground on pin A33 of the ECU while doing the above instead of trying to start at each point.
If you take a piece of wire and attach one end to the battery NEG post and then touch it to the BLK/ORG wire that will do the same thing as pulling in the switch OR twisting the two wires together at the bar.
Touch the piece of wire from the NEG battery post to the following places to rule things out while seeing if it'll start:
1. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at the bar - the one going to the switch from the bike. (If it works, then the black ground wire is bad somewhere in the loom). If not move on...
2. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at under-tank connection/junction - Can't remember off the top of my head if there is one, but sounded like you were poking around one. (If it works, then the black/org wire is bad somewhere in the loom between the bar switch and the junction block).If not move on...
3. Touch to the BLK/ORG wire at the ECU (pin A33 - Can't remember which connector that is). This is where is gets a little harder to do, as you have to do it with the ECU connected. You either need to use something to pierce the insulation of that wire or get a small metal object to push in the back of the connector and make contact with that pin (think scribe/paperclip/associated medical tool that a Vet may have?). (If it works, then the black/org wire is bad somewhere in the loom between the junction block and the ECU).
That's the whole circuit for the clutch switch...until it gets into the ECU and then that's where the software eggheads come into play.
Other option is to do the same thing with a multimeter, if you have one, and read for ground on pin A33 of the ECU while doing the above instead of trying to start at each point.
ArekDeBoss
Turbocharged
Freaking hell thats complicated and I already started making hand sanitizer.
I will restart tomorrow with a fresh eye and slight hangover lol
Thanks a million and will keep you posted
Cheers
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