Clutch sensor problem

[MIG]

very true the clutch switch just informs the ecu
however there was one person that made the claim that keeping that clutch switch circuit closed all the time cause problems with running because ecu always recognized that the clutch was pulled in. i do not know if this is a fact or not and i am to forgetful to by pass mine.

Wouldn't this be solved by just starting the bike in Neutral? I rarely put her in neutral on purpose... but I believe you can start the bike with the clutch out (and side stand down) when in neutral...
-MIG

 

[Fingers]

Clutch has to be pulled in whether in gear or neutral

 

[TURBO200R4]

plus 1 on
need clutch lever in.

 

[warp9.9]

I plead stupidity. But can see a problem arise if the ecu program needs the signal to act like a global variable as a check for completed functions. Something like follow these fuel and timing calculations once all the required conditions or calculations are met. There is probably a lot of math just to calculate how much juice to squirt when you take in the temps sensors, barometric, timing, rpm, throttle position sensors. Thats kind of a lot going on over and over as conditions change. Of course I'm just guessing. Remember I'm a highschool drop out

 

[TURBO200R4]

i know that i am stupid when it comes to computers.
but mostly it is the lack of knowledge of what the programmer put in their ecu's
i think that when the clutch lever is bridged or the neutral light is on all the time that the ecu fails to operate the mass air pressure system because it does not have values for neutral.
just a guess what we need is for the ecu programmer to join our group.

 

[cootertwo]

I just this morning, managed to get the clutch switch out of the handle, without breaking the little plastic tab. I clicked the probe a few times, and then soaked it with WD-40. Now to see if that was my "sometimes won't crank" problem. But the fear of embarrassment, if/when it does it again. I think I'll throw a jumper wire in the bag, so I can jump the solenoid. Wonder if she'd crank and run then ??? It is fascinating to think of what is going on inside that ECU, and like has been said, there is a "neutral" map. It's too hot, and I'm too ****ed lazy to go hook up Tune ECU and see what readings might change with the clutch switch on or off. Got to clean out my screened patio, and get one of the bikes out there, to tinker with. Right now, my poor old washing machine is growling like a very bad axle bearing. Always sumpthin....

 

[TURBO200R4]

now that u reminded me i to had a problem and what i did (like some one said before) was hold starter button in then i would let out on the clutch just a little and it would start. i think i sprayed it with wd40
anyway it has worked good forr a long time. that is most likely why i carry a little piece of striped wire to bridge the clutch switch.

 

[cootertwo]

Sooo, I believe it is a lot more complicated, than just a hot lead to the start button, to the clutch switch, then to the actuating terminal of the starter solenoid. Geeze, I can still remember when things were simple. I miss my gas smelly Amal tickler finger.

 

[wjb]

Yeah, life was a lot simpler when motorcycles came with kick starters.

 

[ArekDeBoss]

An update
I received a clutch sensor but for Daytona I think. I removed the plug and wired it to existing wires. Sensor itself looks the same and fits in properly.
But my problems are far from over.
All been soaked in wd40 and cleaned.
Now here is the situation :

Sensor wired and unplugged- bike starts fine
Sensor wired and PLUGGED in - bike doesn't start. Doesn't matter if clutch is pulled in or not
Sensor removed, wires bridged - bike starts fine.

In all scenarios fuel gauge does NOT work
Any ideas. Please