Clutch life?

[BigNorm]

Norm, you have to screw the lever adjustment barrel screw in (turn to the right) to put more slack in the cable, which will allow the clutch to engage more. screwing out (left) on the adjuster puts more tension on the cable which would be needed if your shifting is hard to change gears

I'll take a picture of what I did when I get off work. It is completely opposite of the picture in the book.

 

[EasTexRIII]

Think of it this way. When you turn the adjuster out (counter clockwise) that pushes the cable housing farther away from the ferrule at the end of the cable that is attached to the lever...... That takes up slack in the cable or tightens it. when it is tighter, it is pulling on the clutch lever (at the clutch shaft on the trans) even before you pull in on the hand lever which will not allow for the clutch to fully engage. So you have to put more slack in that cable by turning the adjuster in (clockwise) so it will fully release all tension on the arm C?

 

[rayjay]

. It stung a little when Warp told me to read the book before I start f'n with stuff but I got over myself and realized he was right.[/QUOTE]

Big Norm
I like the way you think

RJ

 

[BigNorm]

Think of it this way. When you turn the adjuster out (counter clockwise) that pushes the cable housing farther away from the ferrule at the end of the cable that is attached to the lever...... That takes up slack in the cable or tightens it. when it is tighter, it is pulling on the clutch lever (at the clutch shaft on the trans) even before you pull in on the hand lever which will not allow for the clutch to fully engage. So you have to put more slack in that cable by turning the adjuster in (clockwise) so it will fully release all tension on the arm C?

So I did it Bass Ackwards?

 

[EasTexRIII]

So I did it Bass Ackwards?

Well, if you screwed the barrel adjuster out (counter clockwise) then yes, you pulled the cable tighter & it won't fully release the actuator arm.
If you have no gap in the lever shown at the point in Warp's picture, screwing in will get you to the 2-3mm gap you are looking for.

 

[BigNorm]

.
I like the way you think

RJ

Yeah, but I doubt that will stop me from f'n with stuff. I gotta know how this beast works. I've already looked over the manual a few times. I'm sure I'll continue to look, watch, peruse, and ask lots of dumb questions. Hopefully I'm not the only one who obsesses over this stuff.

 

[BigNorm]

Well, if you screwed the barrel adjuster out (counter clockwise) then yes, you pulled the cable tighter & it won't fully release the actuator arm.

The barrel that the two nuts ride on is all the way down. (waiting for inappropriate pun)

 

[EasTexRIII]

The barrel that the two nuts ride on is all the way down. (waiting for inappropriate pun)

By down you mean in?????????? That should be more than enuff. Did you F with it on the other end @ the bracket?

 

[EasTexRIII]

By down you mean in?????????? That should be more than enuff. Did you F with it on the other end @ the bracket?

2 nuts? there should only be one. if there's 2 - that doesn't allow it to go in all the way, but it should still allow it in enuff

 

[BigNorm]

By down you mean in?????????? That should be more than enuff. Did you F with it on the other end @ the bracket?

Down towards the ground. There is one adjustment nut on the top of the bracket and one locknut on the bottom. Yes down at the bracket. All the slack was already taken up at the top