Clutch and output shaft issues.

I'll be following this thread, as I have the exact same issues. I have replaced the clutch plates/springs with Barnett items, but, like a dumbass, I didn't go ahead and remove the clutch basket to check the rivets on the back when I was in there. Changing the clutch plates and springs did not resolve this problem.. I have 82K miles on mine..
 
I tore the clutch apart tonight and found that the thrust bearing and washer it rides against is wore out really bad and was probably a ticking time bomb. The lifter pin and shaft are also wore I assume the pin was spinning in the shaft from the bearing not spinning as free as it should which resulted in the wear. I am also assuming that the pin and shaft being worn is responsible for my longer clutch pull.

Since it will probably be a while till I get the factory parts in I am going to get a replacement bearing and washer and put it back together for now so I can keep riding.
 
Got a new bearing in today and I an putting it in and hopefully it holds up for a while (at least till I get all the new parts in) against the surface of the pin, it looks bad but it still feels smooth to the touch and the new bearing spins on it good.





Not a real great pic but you can see the wear on the pin and the chamfer it put on the shaft from not spinning freely. (at least that is my guess anyway).
 
Interesting thread, I just reacted last fall to my R3T having way too much (it seemed) play/slack in the driveline (or clutch). Guess I need to plan in some work on that eventually, then.
 
I just snapped a bolt off in the clutch basket while I was torquing it, hopefully I can get it with an easy-out. First I am going to walk away and cool down for a while.:mad:
 
I just snapped a bolt off in the clutch basket while I was torquing it, hopefully I can get it with an easy-out. First I am going to walk away and cool down for a while.:mad:
Chuck the usually come out easy. You must follow the torque specifications or you will twist them off. Others have. If all else fails you can remove the basket and go from the back with the propel tap drill. it will most likely spin right out at you drilling. The bolts do not even reach the fillet radius on the spring tower so you will have plenty of hole for pilot and guide. Like I said your not the first one who has done this and you will not be the last. I did not like the short bolts so I went with longer ones from Fastenal. I di have to remove the OEM washers and drill them out to the right size so I could use them on the non standard bolts but it has worked well and my bolts go all the way thru the basket now.
Clutch mod 2.JPG


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Clutch mod 5.JPG


personally if I were you and had the old style clutch system in her I would update it with the newer pressure plate, roller bearing and lifter piece.
The lifter shat is still the same thru out the years
 
You must have missed the part where I said it broke while I was torquing it.

If I was employed right now I would upgrade to the new pressure plate but I just can't justify it right now.
 
You must have missed the part where I said it broke while I was torquing it.

If I was employed right now I would upgrade to the new pressure plate but I just can't justify it right now.
OK your right I did mistake that for just meaning your tightening it. They are small bolts and do break easy. As for upgrading it well it is not totally neededand I understand the employment issue. There are many Rockts out there with the old style clutch and running fine so do not worry about having to upgrade it.
 
Bolt is extracted, took me a while to find an extractor and left-hand drill bits. I removed the pressure plate and clutch discs, taped a garbage bag across the front of the engine, poked a hole in the garbage bag at the boss and then slipped a rubber washer over the boss to keep the bag in place to give me a makeshift "dental dam" to keep everything I drilled out of the engine.

Tomorrow I will go to Fastenal and get some longer replacement bolts and hopefully get it all back together.

Before the bolt broke I checked where the shaft was engaging the pin and realized that it was engaging later than I would have expected so I added and extra thrust washer to the bearing to make it engage sooner. The bearing I bought was a 15x28x4 which is ID x OD x thickness in mm. It is the same as the 15x28x2 that Triumph uses but comes with two 1mm thick thrust washers. It originally had only one thrust washer but this way the bearing will ride between two fresh surfaces and since the pin and shaft have some wear it might restore a little bit of my exaggerated clutch pull. If I am lucky maybe this will last till I can put the better pressure plate in it.
 
I got my new bolts in today and was able to get it back together and it is smooth again! I also have a little more of my lever travel back like I guessed.

I was talking to a friend of mine last night who has been a maintenance mechanic in a factory for the last twenty years and mostly he deals mostly with fixing and rebuilding milling machines, lathes, etc... he said it is bad practice to have a bearing like this ride between a thrust washer and the pin like it is from the factory, you should always have the bearing between two thrust washers. Maybe a design flaw?
 
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