My opinion is why go cheap. *I* have over 20K invested in 2 bikes. **** if I'm going to lose sleep over another $50 to put fresh oil in them if there's any question of whether or not it should be changed. ;)
 
I would also run some Seafoam through a couple of tanks of gas just to clean out any possible gunk that may have formed in there from the gas sitting in it for all that time... You might also want to just check the brakes to ensure all the pistons are moving ok - The sort of stuff our brothers in colder climates do after their bikes have been dormant all winter.
 
My opinion is why go cheap. *I* have over 20K invested in 2 bikes. **** if I'm going to lose sleep over another $50 to put fresh oil in them if there's any question of whether or not it should be changed. ;)

+1 on the oil change. Cheap insurance. For god's sake, don't overfill it.lol
 
Ok so now I gotta ask - what happens if you overfill it? Just blow it out the exhaust a la normal, or?

Not much.

Unlike most bikes, where overfilling the oil in a wet sump will increase windage and can contaminate the cylinders if it gets by the rings, the R3 uses a dry sump system.

There are 2 oil pumps in the R3 engine. One pumps oil up to the oil tank, the other is fed by the tank, and supplies oil to the engine - bearings, head, and a series of oil squirters throughout the engine.
 
Whats a break in period, is it something to do with the female sex?
Open the bike up full blast as soon as you get on it I have never taken it easy with any new vehicle.:D
I just put on my first 550 miles and it almost killed me to hold back. Anyone know the proper break-in for the roadster? My manual suggested 3/4s of top engine speed which I figure is around 4000 rpms. That puts me around 100 mph. What is the issue if you burst into a short rage everyonce and again? Anyone know the penelty for riding a little harder. Also, my dealer wants me to wait until 1000 miles for first oil change. Is this a good idea?
 
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