Brake bleed question

[1K9]

Thanks for the info.

I have some on order. It will be worth it to me even if I use it a couple of times.
I found them at the source and this one fits the Rockets: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA

One important note is you cannot use them on a new (dry) system. The lines must already have fluid in them when you swap them out. There will be a bit of leakage so have a rag and the new one ready to screw in when you do it.

These are cheap and work great. Don't see why they would not work on a "dry" system. Screw the thing in, open 1/2 turn, fill the reservoir, get three feet of clear tubing that fits the nipple tight, I suck the air out. Keep and eye on the reservoir to make sure it has fluid. When I do this, it's also time to clean the calipers toooo, pads off, pistons as far out as you can get them, calipers off, clean, clean, clean with DOT4 only. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner. Seat the pistons all the way in. New pads, calipers on, new DOT bottle, pour and suck the air out. Righty tighty your nipples, then pump the pads out. Before you open a bear go and test your brakes. Enjoy safety. Aaahhhh, andti-rattle grease on the back of the padz and anti seize on the pad retained boltz.

Don't know anything about ABS. I'm an old fart with old bikes. Treat you brakes like you treat your guns if you want to live when it's time to use them. If the R3 throws an ABS code but brakes well, erase it. i'm sure the experts will respond to that with the correct thing to do.

 

[FE_rex]

From a previous post:


Only bad thing I've found about speedbleeders - they don't work very well on initial system fill. Your M/C can only move so much volume. Large enough air pockets provide enough system compressibility to allow full M/C stroke without providing sufficient pressure to lift checkball in the speedbleeder. In this instance, I use a vacuum bleeder to help things along. Otherwise, can't beat speedbleeders for yearly brake fluid changes

 

[TURBO200R4]

i just loosen the bleeders and let the fluid run out while topping off the reservoirs.

edit
i assume that the bleeder would take pressure like (pedal/lever)

 

[Starmanut]

These are cheap and work great. Don't see why they would not work on a "dry" system. Screw the thing in, open 1/2 turn, fill the reservoir, get three feet of clear tubing that fits the nipple tight, I suck the air out. Keep and eye on the reservoir to make sure it has fluid. When I do this, it's also time to clean the calipers toooo, pads off, pistons as far out as you can get them, calipers off, clean, clean, clean with DOT4 only. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner. Seat the pistons all the way in. New pads, calipers on, new DOT bottle, pour and suck the air out. Righty tighty your nipples, then pump the pads out. Before you open a bear go and test your brakes. Enjoy safety. Aaahhhh, andti-rattle grease on the back of the padz and anti seize on the pad retained boltz.

Don't know anything about ABS. I'm an old fart with old bikes. Treat you brakes like you treat your guns if you want to live when it's time to use them. If the R3 throws an ABS code but brakes well, erase it. i'm sure the experts will respond to that with the correct thing to do.

Right you are! You can use a pump or your lungs to get the fluid through. Air from the brake handle is not heavy enough to pull the stop valve back.

 

[1olbull]

Reverse bleeding?
One man, no compressor, best elimination of air.

 

[1K9]

Right you are! You can use a pump or your lungs to get the fluid through. Air from the brake handle is not heavy enough to pull the stop valve back.

That is right. Eventually it will but you will have a sore wrist by then. Suck the air out with a pump or your mouth. Just make sure your tubing is clear. I have not tasted brake fluid yet but in sure it-nasty.

 

[Al Burdon]

That is right. Eventually it will but you will have a sore wrist by then. Suck the air out with a pump or your mouth. Just make sure your tubing is clear. I have not tasted brake fluid yet but in sure it-nasty.

I just bleed brakes the old fashion way. Once had to refill and bleed the tele-motor system for an aircraft carrier steering system which took two of us about 2 days with a hand pump. That experience gave be a high level of patience with bleeding hydraulic systems and the 500 ml or so in a bike system is easy.

 

[9Ball]

Reverse bleeding?
One man, no compressor, best elimination of air.

yes, reverse bleeding on new lines works well. When I installed new HEL lines I used a large veterinary syringe and kept the stock bleeders on. I forced fresh brake fluid from the caliper up until fluid bubbled into the master cylinder. Then I installed the speedbleeders and used the bleeder bag to flush the system while adding a little brake fluid to the master cylinder.

the reverse flushing wet the lines and also purged the air. You may have to refill the syringe a few times and if so just tighten the bleeder to keep air from getting into the system.

 

[PaddyO]

Thanks for the info.

I have some on order. It will be worth it to me even if I use it a couple of times.
I found them at the source and this one fits the Rockets: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA

One important note is you cannot use them on a new (dry) system. The lines must already have fluid in them when you swap them out. There will be a bit of leakage so have a rag and the new one ready to screw in when you do it.

I have a 2014 R3T. Just want to verify the correct size of the speed bleeders. Triumph lists two part numbers for the brake bleeders: Front-T2020014, Rear-T2020695. Is that because they are different sizes? Two are needed for the front and one for the rear. @Starmanut, did you find they were the same size on both the front and the rear? The size for the speed bleeders you reference are M8 x 1.25 x 1.20. I have not been able to find a size for the bleeders on the internet.

 

[Starmanut]

I have a 2014 R3T. Just want to verify the correct size of the speed bleeders. Triumph lists two part numbers for the brake bleeders: Front-T2020014, Rear-T2020695. Is that because they are different sizes? Two are needed for the front and one for the rear. @Starmanut, did you find they were the same size on both the front and the rear? The size for the speed bleeders you reference are M8 x 1.25 x 1.20. I have not been able to find a size for the bleeders on the internet.

I got mine directly from SpeedBleeder.
All three are the same size. the part number is: SB8125L.
Here's a link to the size chart: http://speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm
I got me some extra dust caps, too. They were only 10 cents each. SB9005 Dust Caps.

They worked great!!