Audiovox Cruise Control Questions

[sirwin]

Perfect! Thanks, VinnyBoy!

 

[Lester532]

I've been running the CSS100 for 3 years now - works great! A special thanks to Honker for his tutorial a few years back, which I mostly followed, except:

My CC cable runs under the tank and drops down directly over the throttle bell crank (not attached to the frame downtubes). I attached the supplied CC cable bracket directly where the 2 throttle cables also attach.

I did not use the ball chain at all - went direct with CC cable to bell crank - no problems.

I do use a vacuum reservoir, plumbed into the #3 throttle body vacuum port, which is capped at the factory for those bikes without the charcoal canister. Do not plumb into the MAP circuit ( #1 and #2 cylinder ports are used for that), as you may end up with driveability issues as I did. I'm sure Honker's suggestion to use a vacuum pump would be the best answer, but I'm good with the homemade cannister.

Stick with the vacuum operated Audiovox, as it will work great. It appears the fully electronic unit is not sorted out yet, as it needs to tap into the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), which seems to bugger things up according to those who have tried it. Hope this helps.

Hey Vinnyboy,

Sounds like you've got it worked all out. How about posting a complete how to?
Complete with pics and part numbers. I know I'm asking for a lot but there had been several posts explaining why the vacuum type system won't work on the R3. I for one would like a more detailed explanation of how you made yours work.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

I'll jump in and say that Pigger and Tomo and I have discussed the CSS unit many times, so may times, that I have a CSS unit on the shelf for a sometime (I hope installation).

Probelm with the R3 is that it really don't generate enough vacuum, even in a closed throttle plate condition, because the intake runners are so short. Vacuum is created when airflow across an opening is constant and of high velocity. The R3 don't qualify in those parameters. You can add a cannister or make one from s couple hose barbs and a length of PVC pipe and end caps but space is a premium so it's easier to mount a constant vacuum 12 volt pump to actuate the servo. When you need the vacuum most (to pull the servo) is acceleration and it's an open throttle plate condition and minimal vacuum....read on.....

To that end, the VW pump is just ok, but I'd use a Ford F250-350 HD Diesel front differential actuation vacuum pump. It's small, encapsulated, pulls 20+ inches of vacuum and, it's cheap and plentiful. I have one of those as well.

 

[sirwin]

I'll try to take pics of my install, but all I have with me (home is Memphis, but working in Greenville) is my cell phone camera.

 

[VinnyBoy]

As for a "how to", Honker already posted one and it is excellent. I used it myself with great success. There used to be a Sticky, but I wasn't able to find it here just now.

As for enough vacuum, my vacuum guage shows 24" of vacuum in the cannister, taking vacuum from just the #3 cylinder, and the CSS unit requires 9" of vacuum to run. So the math works, and my reality confirms it. I'm sure a vacuum pump would provide a more instantaneous response, but my unit holds a stready speed to within 3 kph, and charges up hills without a hiccup. It gives me the extended break for my tired wrist that I was looking for. You can store the cannister under the seat, in a saddlebag, or some other place, granted choices are not limitless.

In summary, it is an inexpensive and great cruise control. The install is more laborious than complex, just take your time - you won't regret it.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

It's not producing the required vacuum, it's maintaining the vacuum as the servo diaphragm retracts and depletes the available vacuum, which is why a dedicated vacuum pump will give much better control and less variance in set speed and then of course is the placement of the vacuum cannister. The vacuum pump eliminates the cannister entirely.

Vacuum generation is highest at closed throttle (plate). When the VSS control calls for fuel, the servo pulls the linkage, opens the throttle plate and decreases generated vacuum at the same time whereas a vacuum pump operates independent of the throttle plate.

 

[HellFire]

An electric pump would also stop the little problem of the engine dying when closing the throttle quickly. The idle dips and sometimes can cause it to die while the vacuum is being replenished as the throttle plates close. Just a little more insurance against idle issues.