Anyone need a STRONG Battery?

Let's not get over charged here :D I replaced the original battery at 1 year. I probably didn't need to. Had I managed a trickle charger, on the original battery, for those 2 or 3 day rest periods (on my week ends I usually stay home) and during this winter's 20 degree overnight cold soaking overnight periods it has taken a toll on the oomph. Come Monday and it's time to crank 'er up and get on to work it's wump wump wump no-joy. I got a bit heftier battery with 310CCA but it too suffers from cold soaking and it too fails to start 'er up. I'm about convinced Flipper's :eek: recommendation to tighten up the starter cable and apply some dielectric compound, is all I really needed.

What's the CCA on that Odessy 625. The replacement 310 CCA battery. I put in, sure does a fast spin on the starter on a warmed up beast. It's almost at cautionary level.
 
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Quote from anothrr captain.

Happy to help here.
I am in the business.
Battery life is a crap shoot.
Don't let any Madison Ave arsehole convince you otherwise in advertisement.
Battery high resistance failures can happen in an instance.
Nothing you can do to bring it back to life.
Just say "good bye" and let it go.
This is especially true for OEM batteries.
Captains with only a year and a half on a OEM battery shouldn't be alarmed.
Just do yourself a favor and replace with any very high quality 18AH minimum MC or PWC battery.
Take care of this new battery and I guarantee at least 3 years...easy!!
If you want the very best battery for your Rocket please investigate the PC625 battery from Odyssey.
It is an expensive battery due to latest dry film electrolyte technology.
Battery cage modifications are necessary but are minor.
Certainly valid testimony regarding what bikertim said about.."getting what you pay for"
 
Another Quote

I think I can help here. I am an electronic engineer working for an industrial and vehicular power management company that designs and manufactures battery chargers and all sorts of other stuff.
When Odyssey developed the new PC Series batteries they came to us (we are the best in the business) to design a battery charger that maximizes the battery's potential.
We were supplied with several Odyssey PC Series batteries. To say I was impressed with these batteries would be an understatement.
Having worked with all types of batteries throughout the years I can honestly say these are the VERY BEST MONEY CAN BUY!!
They are still Lead/Acid electrolyte batteries but in a semi-dry state using AGM (Absorptive Glass Material) technology.
The ONLY problem is the automotive industry has yet to catch-up to this technology. Specifically the PC Series Batteries have a different charge profile than other such batteries.
Higher charge voltage and current. In order to reach the full potential of the battery the charging circuit should be 14.7VDC. This is higher than standard automotive alternator charging voltage.
Even still the battery will work marvelously!! They are capable of 3 times as many deep cycles as standard Gell or AGM...the charged cold shelf life is measured in years...not months.
So impressed was I with these batteries I put the PC625 in my Rocket even though the OEM battery was still OK!!!!
I hope this helps ALL on this forum......Replace your battery with an Odyssey PC Series battery and don't worry about it for years and years and years!!!
I HAVE NO FINACIAL GAIN RECOMMENDING THESE BATTERIES...just an engineer trying to help my fellow bikers in areas of expertise and interest.
 
It's really not the CCA that's important but rather the duration of amperage delivered at 32 degrees F, which is the standard at which batteries are measured. You could have 1000 amps available to the starter motor but the windings will only accept whatever the motor is rated at anyway.

An example is a heavy truck. Most times you run 4 batteries in parallel and usually the batteries are at least 600CCA each so you have 2400CCA but the starter will only pull around 1000 amps @ 13.5 volts anyway. The 2400 gives you some reserve because, remember when you crank it, just like the bike, your alternator isn't providing a charge so it's a dead pull against the batteries.

Another example is your house wiring. Suppose you have 200 amp service. That means your main breakers will handle continuous amperage to 200 amps at before they thermally break. If you turn on a 100 watt light bulb, that light bulb is actually looking at 200 amps but the filament will only pass 100 watts or a little less than 1/10th of an amp. The starter motor is exactly the same scenario. That is governed by internal resistance. The only way the light bulb or your starter motor would consume all the available amperage is if there was a short to ground but that's what you have fuses (in your bike) and (in your breaker box) for.
 
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