There's a number of threads about resetting the idle. Mine happened after riding for awhile when coming to a stop. I'm thinking the motor is just tight and I'll monitor it. If it keeps it up, I may do the idle adjustment procedure (and it looks like it really is a procedure!)
One thing to be aware of is the throttle needs to be at zero when you start the bike. Turn ignition on and then hit the starter button WITHOUT moving the throttle. It has a zero position marker, and if it is not there then it can cause poor idle or even stalling when it is confused.
One thing to be aware of is the throttle needs to be at zero when you start the bike. Turn ignition on and then hit the starter button WITHOUT moving the throttle. It has a zero position marker, and if it is not there then it can cause poor idle or even stalling when it is confused.
Brand new motors are always considered 'tight', hence the reason for a break-in. Specifically, the rings have to seat in the cylinders. This is also true of the crank and bearings, wrist pins in the connecting rods and pistons, etc. This is also why the oil is changed often in a brand new motor. There can be a lot of metal shavings from the seating process.
Until all of this occurs and the motor has been broken-in, it's tight!
Also happened to me, twice, the day I took delivery. Once I got a few miles it stopped.
Mine was when I was approaching a light, let it engine brake, then pull clutch to finally stop rolling it would just dip in rpm and die instead of opening the IAC stepper to get more air.
It absolutely should stop as soon as you get the first service done, IAC is one of their checks.
It's happened to me as well with my 2012 Roadster, but just once a long time ago during the summer while in traffic... was coming to a stop with the clutch in and it just died. Started right back up after and never had it happen again