Anticipation is killing me...

Just my .02...

Stockers are amazingly comfortable over slow rolling undulating roads. Like a ****ing cloud on two wheels. Throw in reality, expansion joints, pot holes, you know, terrain, and they beat the ever loving crap out of my kidneys. They also wallow like it’s going out of style when cornering.

440s... I used a set from a Kawasaki 1800, slightly softer spring than 440s purpose built for R3s, at the time I was only 165lb so they were amazing. They were a hell of a lot better than stock but still wallowed a touch when pushed hard. Very nice ride overall.

Wilber’s 642s... well, they’re both former and smoother at the same time. ZERO wallowing no matter what, none. Higher spring rate by miles compared to the other two sets, but vastly superior damping also, it is the only shock I will ever put on a Rocket again, well worth the 1700 bucks.

Also we don’t need a “before” dyno, R3 non-touring baseline values are from 115-120 for most roadsters to 125ish for originals, classics, and standards. All tap high 120s to right at 130 with just a tune.
 
Stockers are amazingly comfortable over slow rolling undulating roads.
Post 2020 Roadster maybe. But 2009 and before are harsh. And Harsh by 1980 Italian Sports bike standards. Fitted Fournales and never looked back.

Not only is the adjustment system a bit hit and miss - getting to the lock nut&bolt requires dismantling half the front end. Not sure I want electric. But a gear and worm screw certainly would be a help.
 
Just my .02..

Also we don’t need a “before” dyno, R3 non-touring baseline values are from 115-120 for most roadsters to 125ish for originals, classics, and standards. All tap high 120s to right at 130 with just a tune.


So what you are saying is, from a Roadster with ramair, unknown crossover, unknown cans and a specific header, you can tell exactly how much hp/tq came from the header alone?

I wanna see that trick in action. I will post the numbers from the complete system and you can tell me how many were from the Viking header. Then I will post the control numbers and we'll see how close you are.
 
Ah I didn’t realize it wasn’t a stock setup before getting the Viking put on.

No worries, you've been the major tester and mathematician around here of late. I thought you may have actually figured out a way to do it and wanted to see how close you could actually come.
 
The beast is strapped to the dyno right now... But the **** throttle cable broke just as he was opening her up to take the readings...

So it is in the shop until sometime next week when the cable is delivered.
 
Oh no. Sorry man, heartbreaker.

It sucks, but much better than it happening while teaching myself to wheelie the big pig. My wife asked me if I have been riding around on a death trap... my answer was "I dunno, but DeathTrap is it's new name"

She is not thrilled about the new name
 
Well, finally got it back. Progressive springs installed, both new throttle cables, new rear brakes and dyno'd on a Mustang Dyno. They say Mustangs runs 11% or so lower than a DynoJet dyno...

Ramair, unknown free flow crossover and cans, @Penner tune. Viking header should be installed this weekend then hopefully back on the dyno in the next week.


AIT is sitting on top of motor for now so run 2 is lower due to heat messing things up.
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