Another High Idle thread - geezzz

Sorry to post another one folks but I'm at wits end on this one.

On my way back from the Hill Country Salvo, my 06 Standard developed a high idle problem. After running on the highway for extended periods, it would hang around 2300 rpm when I was exiting the highway. I could pull in the clutch, hit the kill switch, switch it back to run, wait for the sweep, and restart and it would return to normal for a few miles. After filling with gas, it would start up normally. Each leg ended like this.

Since returning, I've cleaned the crankcase sensor 2x but I'm still having the problem. It seems to occur when the engine gets really warm such as when sitting in traffic or extended highway speed runs.

This is sounding like a for-real faulty TPS issue to me. Anyone agree?

I'd like some feedback before I schedule a trip to the dealer. I don't have tuneboy so I don't feel comfortable enough to change it out myself.

Before calling it faulty, synch your TBs, adjust ISCV and reset adaptives.

Doesn't hurt to pull the TPS and spray in some electronics cleaner. Don't forget to re-vasoline it and watch that torque on the retaining screw.

Agree with Bishop. but if that doesn't work you will need to change the tps. If you still have a problem, it's likely the stepper motor. I just had exactly the same symptoms as you, but my idle stuck bang on 2000 rpm. Next long trip in 2 weeks, so won't know till then for sure

...synch your TBs, adjust ISCV and reset adaptives...

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synch your TBs - don't you need a tuneboy for that? no TB for me.

adjust ISCV - ???

reset adaptives - won't the problem just come back again?

tdragger said:

synch your TBs - don't you need a tuneboy for that? no TB for me.

adjust ISCV - ???

reset adaptives - won't the problem just come back again?

Click to expand...

Yes, you would. Or that new freebie (although I haven't tried it yet). If you can't see what's going on with your sensors and ECU data, then there's little point for us trying to guess at the problem. Take it to a shop and call it a day.

Most folks don't want to buy a TuneBoy becasue they think it's just to upload tunes. That's only a very small part of what you can do with a TuneBoy and you will save whatever you pay for one by not having to take your bike to the dealer for minor issues like the one you're having. I would say that 70% of the work I do with a TuneBoy on my R3 has nothing to do with uploading tunes.

If you're out of warranty, you're going to pay I think $110 for a TPS. Then you're going to have to take it to a dealer, leave it there for a few days and pay them who knows how much to install the TPS, probably a few hundred bucks and you're without a bike while it's happening.

Or, the dealer won't be able to diagnose the problem because they'll bench test the TPS (which even when faulty, always bench tests good) and you'll be without a bike for weeks while they try to figure it out. They won't listen to you because the forum knowledge is just a bunch of crap and we're all liars that don't know what we're talking about (this actually happened to someone here, can't remember who though).

If you have a TuneBoy, you could narrow down the problem and isolate the TPS (or not) but the part and install/adjust it yourself and be on the road same day.

The TuneBoy pays for itself quickly.

I am going to try out this new "free" software this weekend and see if it has the same functionality as TuneBoy. If I can't diagnose with it, it's worthless to me and I'll keep my TuneBoy.

Anyway, back to your problem, if you know anyone with a TuneBoy, I'm pretty sure the TuneBoy software will work on your bike without a key, you only need the key for TuneEdit.

Thanks, Marcus. That helps a bunch. No doubt that the tuneboy investment will pay for itself but I haven't made the leap just yet.

I do, actually, have a real, in the red pouch Tuneboy cable borrowed (stolen) from my brother. I just don't have a personal laptop/netbook to run it with yet. If I can use the Tuneboy software without the key for diagnosis, then I'll have to spring for a netbook.

Please post your review of the new freebie software. It will be interesting to find out if you can use it for diagnosis.

Ian,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do this tonight. What you describe would fit the scenario perfectly.

Your dealer can reset the ISCV ( Idle stepper control voltage) takes minutes & THEY MIGHT NOT CHARGE Gah! friggin cap key! but I suspect a new TPS is needed.. esp if a delaer reset works for a week or so then starts to fail again. Marcus is correct, the tuneboy makes stuff like this a lot more simple &fast to do at home.

Tail drager you can synch your TBs the old way like carbs just hook the vac gauges to the extra ports coming from your TB's and adjust the tow outside to match the center one. you don't need a fancy net book just move you computer to the garage and back when your done. I did tat for a year till I bought a laptop. Juggs is right about the other great things tune boy is good for.

Just to see what is happening, if you get the high idle pull over with the motor still running and see if the stepper motor is holding it high or if the shaft is binding in the T/bodies.