3 fold problem - HELP

If battery falls below 11.4 volts
Bike will not start
Gauges will sweep but there will be no joy as computer will not allow bike to start
I had this problem on my 05
New battery and problem was solved
But I e never messed with my ecu
 
Did you check your headlight fuse (20 amp on left side of fusebox)? Bike won't start if that is blown out. I know this because I removed it to use tuneECU yesterday and forgot to put it back in.
 
hi
ok i coming in after a lot of info has been given.
you can guess all day long or you can buy a multi meter and know what is going on. the guy that said ign. switch is probably right.
you set your meter to dc volts the setting will probably the 20 position
you put the negative side to a good ground. you then touch the positive probe to the positive battery terminal you should get 12.5 volts. next put pos. probe on each side of fuse #9 if you get less than 10 volts your ign switch is bad. (for checking purposes only) you can take a jumpier wire (put a push in fuse set up from parts store) and run it from positive into both sides of #9 and see if it has headlights and then see if it will start.
you are probably down on voltage may be why you can not connect to the computer. the whirring noise is the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you turn on the key.
hope this helps herman
 
rocket3jjd said:
If battery falls below 11.4 volts
Bike will not start
Gauges will sweep but there will be no joy as computer will not allow bike to start
I had this problem on my 05
New battery and problem was solved
But I e never messed with my ecu
Click to expand...


I have a brand new battery on that is about a month old. Just to be safe, I put it on a battery tender and topped it off, but the result is the same unfortunately. Thank you for the thought!
 
Ugarte said:
Did you check your headlight fuse (20 amp on left side of fusebox)? Bike won't start if that is blown out. I know this because I removed it to use tuneECU yesterday and forgot to put it back in.
Click to expand...

I have not checked the headlight fuse, but I will do so. Well, visually at least - I do not have a meter. Which fuse is it on the left side? I have a pic of my fuses early in the post if it helps. Thanks for all of your suggestions, by the way!
 

I don't have a multi-meter, but I think my brother does so I could test with that. I'm not opposed to buying one myself, but I am so mechanically deficient that I don't know what other use it would get!
This sounds like an excellent suggestion to see if that is the issue though, so thank you very much for this!
 
Grendel said:
I have not checked the headlight fuse, but I will do so. Well, visually at least - I do not have a meter. Which fuse is it on the left side? I have a pic of my fuses early in the post if it helps. Thanks for all of your suggestions, by the way!
Click to expand...

In your pic it is in the bottom row second from the left, not counting the main 30 amp fuses. Looks like you have something else in there.
 
An electrical tester will open up a lot of troubleshooting possibilities and without it you are left to guess and replace parts which may or may not resolve the issue. A suitable electrical tester in the most basic format available at NAPA or other parts store should only run in the $15 range.
 

Not bad, sounds like a good plan. Thanks!
 
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