230 HP N/A for $5,600.00

This was posted on another site by one of its members.

Carpenter Race Engines - ZX-10R Packages

Has anybody taken advantage of this or does anybody know of anyone that has? It seems like this would be the ticket. And I wonder if they ever done a NEXT phase that was going to be 280 HP just by making some minor changes.
I have seen the Supercharger kit for $5,500 and I haven't seen what the cost for a turbo kit is but I think this would be a better way of gaining the horses without adding an additional maintence item or something that has to be serviced. I'm sure there are pros and cons about both.

Hey T they actually got 242 on the first one and would have had more but the guy did not bring it back, I think he was scared. they have done 3 packages so far and are working on a Sc one now. I am getting poised to intergrate some of there work on my SC R3 I have ordered pistons and carrillo rods when I get them I will send a extra head to Bob to have it worked over a bit. I will go with the 44 lift cams, porting and o-ringing it. who knows I might get about 320 or so out of her. Of course Hombre is going to spin his 9k at 425 shaft horse as he wants the over 200 mph range. If they would have had the kit before I bought the blower who knows I might have went that way. IMO if you get that you better hold on buddy

My S/B Boss Hoss was 385 hp at the crank but after going thru the slush-amatic you could expect around 250 to the ground. But because of its size it would just smoke the car tire I had on it and that was without the 100 horse shot of juice I had installed.
Now this Triumph is a different beast. If you had 250 hp at the rear wheel its going to come up with you and not just smoke the tire. Makes me wonder how much the drive line can take. We all know that when you start increasing HP and torque, at some point you start chasing the weak link in your drive line.
I wonder if 250 h/p at the rear wheel, if the bike would still be dependable for cross country runs and everyday riding. One of the things I don't miss is the constant wrench and ride that went along with the Boss thats for sure.
If a guy sent his bike out to these guys and had them do the 230 kit and a guy drives desecnt and not constantly abusing it, if he could expect a dependable ride? Sounds like it would be worth a try to me.

warp9.9 said:

Hey T they actually got 242 on the first one and would have had more but the guy did not bring it back, I think he was scared. they have done 3 packages so far and are working on a Sc one now. I am getting poised to intergrate some of there work on my SC R3 I have ordered pistons and carrillo rods when I get them I will send a extra head to Bob to have it worked over a bit. I will go with the 44 lift cams, porting and o-ringing it. who knows I might get about 320 or so out of her. Of course Hombre is going to spin his 9k at 425 shaft horse as he wants the over 200 mph range. If they would have had the kit before I bought the blower who knows I might have went that way. IMO if you get that you better hold on buddy

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Besides the rods, what else have you done or would you do to harden the engine for 11.4:1 compression? Valves? Valve seats?

Doug, I have a blower so I ordered 9:1 pistons ceramic coated I am going to have Carpenter do the head and cams with the boost I develope my compression will be higher then 11.4:1 anyway. I am going to rune the rev limits at 7500 until I change the fuel regulator and install 1000 cc injectors verses the 680cc Richard supplies with the blower then I will tune for 9k this will most likely put me above the 200 mph mark. I need to work on high speed stability before I run her that fast. as for the drive line you must remember the reason I like the blower is it is centrifugal biulds boost as you wind her up so there is not as much out of the hole shock to it. at about 2k thow when she start to spool up its game on. The only true week link I worry about is the clutch basket. But I sent my extra one to MTC engineering so the can take measurements for a billet basket, along with beefing it up. Brembo blew his which was the olderstyle but he was at 280 ft lbs of torque. If you can carry 200 ft lbs clear thru 9 k it would be about 340 wheel horse. I am not going to try to develope much over 300 as I am just working on reliability of the engine. The truth is the Triumph forged rods and crank (stock items ) are pretty good equipment anyway. I am just trying to make mine more bullet proof and reliable as I have over 40k on her now. I like you do like to travel and even with the blower I am not afraid of a 1000 mile haul.

warp9.9 said:

Doug, I have a blower so I ordered 9:1 pistons ceramic coated I am going to have Carpenter do the head and cams with the boost I develope my compression will be higher then 11.4:1 anyway. I am going to rune the rev limits at 7500 until I change the fuel regulator and install 1000 cc injectors verses the 680cc Richard supplies with the blower then I will tune for 9k this will most likely put me above the 200 mph mark. I need to work on high speed stability before I run her that fast. as for the drive line you must remember the reason I like the blower is it is centrifugal biulds boost as you wind her up so there is not as much out of the hole shock to it. at about 2k thow when she start to spool up its game on. The only true week link I worry about is the clutch basket. But I sent my extra one to MTC engineering so the can take measurements for a billet basket, along with beefing it up. Brembo blew his which was the olderstyle but he was at 280 ft lbs of torque. If you can carry 200 ft lbs clear thru 9 k it would be about 340 wheel horse. I am not going to try to develope much over 300 as I am just working on reliability of the engine. The truth is the Triumph forged rods and crank (stock items ) are pretty good equipment anyway. I am just trying to make mine more bullet proof and reliable as I have over 40k on her now. I like you do like to travel and even with the blower I am not afraid of a 1000 mile haul.

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I'm impressed that the stock engine is strong. If you don't want to go 200 mph, it seems that some moderate head work can get you a lot of extra power. With all of your mods, how do you tune it? Do you change the timing?

Your right about the head work it can improve your performance even if you don't want to go radical Carpenter will grind different cam lifts for you. I think right now .465 lift is the biggest they do but your head will require larger tappits. other then that .440 is about as big as you can go with the stock size tappits. but they will have to do som machine work on the vale buckets so you can increase the lift and install larger springs titainium retainers and under the bucket shims is a must with high lifts. If you stay with standard over the bucket shims and split one your engine will suffer from catastrophic failure. If you do not want the head work .370 lift is the largest you can go. Neville lush racing makes good cams for street use and he also does head work. I will go with the .440 lift and have them do their custom porting on a 5 axis CNC and then Mill o-ring grooves in the head to help retain the head gasket. As fo tuning I had mine done on a dyno and then I also monitor my A/F at all times by use of the Weggo III A/F gauge system it come with data logging software that monitor A/F compare to throttle position and rpm. you can down load straight to you computer to see whereits at. Its kind of like a rolling dyno.

Here you can see my A/F at idle when I am at full boost I have her a little richer as a A/F of 11.6:1 will cool the intake charge temp by 6 degrees after I get a intercooler it will be safer and I will shoot for 12.8:1 but until then I run her slightly richer charge air temps aproach premature detonation which is not good. I also use a Vampire individual knock control computer to decrease detonation chances it senses the detonation and retard timing 10 degrees until the event is over and at that time it advances the timing 2 degrees every 20 revolutions of the engine until it is back to the original timming setting. I was able to pull some of the timming out at higher rpms on the last dyno run without robbing power. Timming is critical when you running hot intake charge temps. I onyl know of 4 people who have had some type of catastrophic event wasting pistons. two with superchargers and two with turbo's I was one of them you can find my post on theis site. Brembo has broken piston lands and rings with his turbo and in my opinion the turbo's spool up so fast out the gate that they are more apt to breaking ****. I am sure Captain C will disagree some as he has not had problem with his set up. I can't tell you if he thrashes his like I do but I do think the people that did his are more versed on turbo's. They rebuild a lot of diesel turbo's set ups and are more experienced with them. My problem came do to going past the limits of the fuel pump which leaned me out and detonated lifting the head and destroying two liners and two pistons.




this one being the worst of the two

If your going to spin above 6500 rpms I would invets in a Walbro342 fuel pump less then 100.00 and a worth while insurance policy.

Interesting stuff. Do you use Tuneboy to change the ignition tables? PCIII for fuel?

I use tune boy but after I get done with her this winter I will also buy a PCIII and run both unless the PCV is out then I will go with that verses the PCIII. I like tune boy for most of the ignition control and other maintanance duties needed the PC changes fuel easier and I won't have to go as far for the Dyno runs last time I used Power-Tripp performance and have nothing but good to say about him. This time I will go with Cycle solutions as Jerry is the one I am getting my pistons thru with Walt and since were both getting some of the same upgrades he will be well versed on the New warp engines

Cool. Best wishes on your endeavors.