Thanks for your replies and suggestions. My original post was re 12 minute tune. I've seen it described as needed when fitting RamAir due to a weaker mixture. If the Tors need a richer mixture, will the 12 minute tune sort as a stop gap measure?
 
I would not use it as a stopgap for tune replacement. Ok maybe for a 15 minute ride to the dealer, but certainly not for 2 weeks (or any length) of riding.
 
The 12 minute tune just makes some adaptations to local conditions at idle. It does nothing for the fueling at higher rpm and throttle. It's not necessary. The ECU will adapt on its own. The instructions for Tuneboy says that after you download a new map, hit "reset adaptations" to bring the ECU to factory settings.
 
I spoke to the head wrench at the Triumph dealership about my custom tune when I cautioned him not to change it during the 30K service. Verifying the correct/up to date tune is part of the service. He acknowledged the slightly lean issue with the Triumph TOR tune and liked the way mine ran with the tune I'd installed. He said they had more issues with bolt on tuners such as the Power Commander (don't know why) than with programs like Tuneboy. He was not familiar with the TuneECU.

And on the 12 minute tune, I recently had the service manager at my Kawasaki/KTM/Victory dealership remind me that whenever doing one, to disconnect the positive terminal first for a few minutes for to allow the ECU to reset itself. Then when the bike is started the ECU "looks" for changes in the mixture/exhaust etc., to adapt itself. That's what the "wandering" RPMs is all about. I'd forgotten about that step and was going to do one on my Vulcan Nomad if I installed an aftermarket exhaust.
 
I hope he told you to disconnect the -ve terminal. You should always disconnect it first and re-connect it last.
 
It's always disconnect the earth first isn't it regardless of polarity?
 
I spoke to the head wrench at the Triumph dealership about my custom tune when I cautioned him not to change it during the 30K service. Verifying the correct/up to date tune is part of the service. He acknowledged the slightly lean issue with the Triumph TOR tune and liked the way mine ran with the tune I'd installed. He said they had more issues with bolt on tuners such as the Power Commander (don't know why) than with programs like Tuneboy. He was not familiar with the TuneECU.

And on the 12 minute tune, I recently had the service manager at my Kawasaki/KTM/Victory dealership remind me that whenever doing one, to disconnect the positive terminal first for a few minutes for to allow the ECU to reset itself. Then when the bike is started the ECU "looks" for changes in the mixture/exhaust etc., to adapt itself. That's what the "wandering" RPMs is all about. I'd forgotten about that step and was going to do one on my Vulcan Nomad if I installed an aftermarket exhaust.
In the original tunes, there is no difference in the main fuel tables in the tune for stock mufflers with catalytic converter and the tune for TORs with cat bypass. You would expect the bike with TORs and cat bypass to run lean.

Here are dyno tests of my 2005 R3 with TORs/cat bypass. The blue and red curves are for a custom tune for TORs/cat bypass done by Wayne MacDonald at Tuneboy. I don't know whether he did this on a dyno or what. The green and purple curves are for the Triumph tune for TORs/cat bypass. The trims in the Tuneboy tune range from 2-19% with the highest trims from 2800 to 5000 rpm and throttle position above 6%. From about 2700 rpm and up there's not much difference in the A/F curves. Therefore, it's unlikely you will ruin your engine by running the stock tune with the TORs/cat bypass.

Yuill_Bros082406.jpg
 
Dougl, you're a hero supplying the proof of the pudding. In my humble opinion all I could see was that a slightly lean engine - 10%? should do no more than prevent the full benefit. I changed the can on my R1, there were no remaps and did 15000 miles without any hassle. As I said, it's only a temporary measure until I get it mapped.
 
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