2006 Rocket III Clutch Lifter arm position.

Radz94

Radz94

.020 Over
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Messages
42
Location
Yardley, PA
Ride
2006 Rocket III Standard
Im finally finishing up on a 2nd gear upgrade due to Transmission issue.
I noticed when attaching the clutch cable to Clutch lifter arm that the position doesn't match the rotation point when I originally took it apart in 2021.. First picture is original position .
2nd is as it is now. Cable has almost no slack for freeplay. I followed the manual meticulously.
Only parts changed were springs , fasteners , belleville washer and lockout. I did get proper torque on lockout when I installed it.
Clutch pack is correct .
When I activate the clutch from handgrip it moves freely.
 

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The spindle isn't in the same orientation as the first picture. When I blew up the first photo theres a dot on the spindle and a corresponding dot on the arm that are aligned. In the second photo they are not aligned from what I saw. You can add some slack by removing the arm, rotate it up a couple cogs of the spindle and reattach.
 
atomsplitter said:
The spindle isn't in the same orientation as the first picture. When I blew up the first photo theres a dot on the spindle and a corresponding dot on the arm that are aligned. In the second photo they are not aligned from what I saw. You can add some slack by removing the arm, rotate it up a couple cogs of the spindle and reattach.
Click to expand...
IF I rotate it to the original point , It is impossible to attach the cable.
My question is does it matter that the dots line up as in the original picture?
Thanks for your reply!
 
Radz94 said:
IF I rotate it to the original point , It is impossible to attach the cable.
My question is does it matter that the dots line up as in the original picture?
Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...
Absolutely not. You can rotate the arm however you need to get the cable slack you need. First slacken the jam nut on the adjuster barrel, then remove the arm. With the arm off rotate the adjuster barrel to about mid point and then reattach the arm. You can also adjust the clutch perch adjuster for some additional slack so you can get the proper 2mm with adjustment available for cable stretch later.
 
Radz94 said:
IF I rotate it to the original point , It is impossible to attach the cable.
My question is does it matter that the dots line up as in the original picture?
Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...
if it was mine i would take it back apart and find out why it is like it is.
just guessing
i think you may have installed the plunger with washers in wrong place
if it was to far back then the shaft would be like it is
hth
ps if it does not have the two mm of clearance it will wipe it out
 
atomsplitter said:
Absolutely not. You can rotate the arm however you need to get the cable slack you need. First slacken the jam nut on the adjuster barrel, then remove the arm. With the arm off rotate the adjuster barrel to about mid point and then reattach the arm. You can also adjust the clutch perch adjuster for some additional slack so you can get the proper 2mm with adjustment available for cable stretch later.
Click to expand...
before i tried to relocate arm i would disconnect cable and make sure that it will have free play
if it is loaded then it will go bad
if it has free play then maybe worth the gamble.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
before i tried to relocate arm i would disconnect cable and make sure that it will have free play
if it is loaded then it will go bad
if it has free play then maybe worth the gamble.
Click to expand...
The other option is to put the lifter shaft (#25) back in the original orientation, but that might require taking the case cover back off.

1755707034250.png
 
TURBO200R4 said:
if it was mine i would take it back apart and find out why it is like it is.
just guessing
i think you may have installed the plunger with washers in wrong place
if it was to far back then the shaft would be like it is
hth
ps if it does not have the two mm of clearance it will wipe it out
Click to expand...
@Turbo is right. You'll need to take it apart. Sorry. I ran into this when I did a Lush upgrade to my Roadster and @warp9.9 bailed me out. Set the dot on the lever as it was before, as @atomsplitter said. Remove the cover and you have to align it properly. Here's what I wrote in a post on my rebuild....

Day 18
Reinstall clutch cover. Don’t attempt to wind the spring by over turning the arm (you may have to slightly). The spring is not what returns your lever at the grip. It is the actual clutch springs that do most of that work. The spring on the cover is to ensure you have a bit of slack in the cable. Thanks, again, @warp9.9

DIY Beginner Upgrades Cams & Pistons - Lives To Tell The Tale

I just finished a Neville Lush piston and cam rebuild in ""record time"" with no prior experience. I had allowed myself a full five days during the Christmas holidays for the install. Well, now, more than three months later, I’m finally in a position to say, "job completed!" and share this story...
www.r3owners.net www.r3owners.net

I feel pretty sure this is what happened to you too. Hope this helps....
 
TURBO200R4 said:
before i tried to relocate arm i would disconnect cable and make sure that it will have free play
if it is loaded then it will go bad
if it has free play then maybe worth the gamble.
Journeyman said:
@Turbo is right. You'll need to take it apart. Sorry. I ran into this when I did a Lush upgrade to my Roadster and @warp9.9 bailed me out. Set the dot on the lever as it was before, as @atomsplitter said. Remove the cover and you have to align it properly. Here's what I wrote in a post on my rebuild....

Day 18
Reinstall clutch cover. Don’t attempt to wind the spring by over turning the arm (you may have to slightly). The spring is not what returns your lever at the grip. It is the actual clutch springs that do most of that work. The spring on the cover is to ensure you have a bit of slack in the cable. Thanks, again, @warp9.9

DIY Beginner Upgrades Cams & Pistons - Lives To Tell The Tale

I just finished a Neville Lush piston and cam rebuild in ""record time"" with no prior experience. I had allowed myself a full five days during the Christmas holidays for the install. Well, now, more than three months later, I’m finally in a position to say, "job completed!" and share this story...
www.r3owners.net www.r3owners.net

I feel pretty sure this is what happened to you too. Hope this helps....
Click to expand...
Looks to me like the lifter piece was not scooped up into the lifter shaft when the clutch cover was put on.
Click to expand...
The dot on the lifter shaft should be at about 2 o'clock when assembled in the first picture you can see it's around 4 o'clock. Also in the first picture the amount of threads hanging out the bottom clutch cable sheath mount is way the much as it shorten cable sheath length I have never seen one with that much adjustment needed. And you guy's have already spotted the misaligned marks between the lifter shaft arm and the lifter shaft.
A lot of people don't pick up on the fact the the alignment dot on the lifter shaft also lets you know where the pickup fork flat is on the shaft.
If you didn't feel yourself scooping up the lifter piece when you were installing it I would listen and go back and pop the cover of. If it's a fresh oiled clutch cover gasket it should come of whole.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
if it was mine i would take it back apart and find out why it is like it is.
just guessing
i think you may have installed the plunger with washers in wrong place
if it was to far back then the shaft would be like it is
hth
ps if it does not have the two mm of clearance it will wipe it out
Click to expand...
 

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