Unhappy with my dealership service experience.....

Thanks for the info Warp and will do! Got a "Flipstand" on order as well as a RAMAIR. Todays quandry is why are my EBC Double H's dragging up front. Wish Triumph would have put a center stand on her so I can see if the front wheel spins freely. Not being to do that I'll ride her for a mile using the back brakes and see how hot the front rotor(s)get. Ahhhh....Triumph ownership....always something.


Thanks for all the wisdom guys!

Cheers...Greg
Disc brake pads always lightly rub on the rotor, but the rubbing shouldn't be to the point that you can't turn the wheel by hand. I suspect that's what's going on here and you don't have anything to be concerned about.

But if not and something's out of alignment, you may need to adjust according to the service manual:
  1. Release but don't remove the fork pinch bolts
  2. Leave the wheel spindle tightened (65 Nm)
  3. Check that the brake rotor is centrally located to the caliper on the left hand side. If not, apply gentle pressure to the fork to ensure the rotor is centered with the caliper.
  4. Maintaining that position, tighten the fork pinch bolts (22 Nm).
 
Time for a little cross model knowledge :)

The front brakes on the R3 are the same front brakes on the Daytona 955i. The 955i was notorious as they aged for having spongy and dragging front brakes. It's because of the calipers not sealing well around the piston. Triumph seem to have improved the tolerances for the Rocket, but, on a 10 year old bike like yours, I would not be shocked to find that your caliper seals are going out. If that's the case, they are very easy to rebuild and the kit to do so is very cheap.

I doubt they are dragging abnormally though. HH pads need to be heat cycled a few times as they say to bed in. I usually go on the freeway and heat cycle them by dragging the front brake while maintaining speed in an on/off pattern with time to cool between cycles for an hour or so, let them cool, then go ride them without a second thought, has never failed me yet. HH pads are louder than the organics though, its unavoidable, they have a much higher coefficient of friction, the reason they work so well, and because of that increased friction they stop you better to. Just a small trade off.
 
Thanks guys! This is the "Sandia Labs" of R3 knowledge!

STELLAR!

Time for a little cross model knowledge :)

The front brakes on the R3 are the same front brakes on the Daytona 955i. The 955i was notorious as they aged for having spongy and dragging front brakes. It's because of the calipers not sealing well around the piston. Triumph seem to have improved the tolerances for the Rocket, but, on a 10 year old bike like yours, I would not be shocked to find that your caliper seals are going out. If that's the case, they are very easy to rebuild and the kit to do so is very cheap.

I doubt they are dragging abnormally though. HH pads need to be heat cycled a few times as they say to bed in. I usually go on the freeway and heat cycle them by dragging the front brake while maintaining speed in an on/off pattern with time to cool between cycles for an hour or so, let them cool, then go ride them without a second thought, has never failed me yet. HH pads are louder than the organics though, its unavoidable, they have a much higher coefficient of friction, the reason they work so well, and because of that increased friction they stop you better to. Just a small trade off.
 
Brake pistons slightly seized an not retracting properly can also cause a drag, when I'm renewing the pads I clean the pistons with an old toothbrush an some brake cleaner. I take one caliper off at a time an with an old pad and small G clamp fitted to the caliper,I tighten the clamp so that 2 pistons are pushed in and held,then pump brake lever so 2 opposite come out a bit ,clean those then push them back in and clamp them an repeat with opposing pistons.
 
Brake pistons slightly seized an not retracting properly can also cause a drag, when I'm renewing the pads I clean the pistons with an old toothbrush an some brake cleaner. I take one caliper off at a time an with an old pad and small G clamp fitted to the caliper,I tighten the clamp so that 2 pistons are pushed in and held,then pump brake lever so 2 opposite come out a bit ,clean those then push them back in and clamp them an repeat with opposing pistons.



WHATS THE DIFF? Not trusting my dealer to this day I drained the diff after he allegededly changed the fluid 800 miles ago...IT CAME OUT JET BLACK......I drained her out good and flushed her out with some mineral spirits and blew some compressed air in and then filled her up...Per the Manual( on a paddock stand) till the honey colored Syntrax came spilling out the fill port.

Before I go get my panties in a jam...Is it normal for Syntrax or Mobil 1 to turn this dark after 800 miles when the shaft was supposedly greased? Does the grease seep into the Syntrax?

Just want to ask so I can decide to kick my self in the ass or the dealer.

Check the picture and set me straight guys!
1-syntrax.jpg
 
I have always changed the diff. lube myself and it has never come out black. I change it every time I change the rear tire. The last time it had 7500 miles on it and it looked as clean as the new oil I put back in. { 75w90 Mobil 1} There is no way for the shaft spline grease to contaminate the gear lube. It is a sealed unit from the drive shaft.
 
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