Troubles and havent even had first ride

[DEcosse]

... frontlights low and high beam not working fuse seems fine,

Check that the connectors to the lights just behind the steering head on right side are plugged in and clean/not corroded
Otherwise check the bulbs themselves.
It may have a headlight bypass kit on it - if it does, there is likely a separate fuse for the power to that. (it would likely be connected directly to the battery - possibly left off when you installed new battery?)

... also when i go for a ride when i clutch to change gears it stalls. is this the clutch sensor? i stated the bike while not on it and when i put it in first it died the same way when riding down the road. i will just add that if im using a bit of throttle it doesnt stall its only when i let it go to idle while the clutch is in.

The clutch switch has no impact on running, only starter

There are two interlocks which affect running, the neutral and side-stand switches.
There must be one or the other present.
Assuming it starts with the side-stand down, that validates the neutral switch is good.
Typical indicator of a side-stand switch issue would be if it dies when you click it into gear with the side raised (if the side-stand is down it will DEFINITELY cut)
However I don't think that is the issue here - if you just elevate the rpm slightly, see if stalls when you put it in gear. If it does not then the switch is not what is causing the stall.

I think the problem is still associated with your idle set-up.
When you replaced the TPS did you complete the calibration?
Did you do the 'Reset adaptions' and run the '12 minute tune'?

 

[karl rashleigh]

Check that the connectors to the lights just behind the steering head on right side are plugged in and clean/not corroded
Otherwise check the bulbs themselves.
It may have a headlight bypass kit on it - if it does, there is likely a separate fuse for the power to that. (it would likely be connected directly to the battery - possibly left off when you installed new battery?)



The clutch switch has no impact on running, only starter

There are two interlocks which affect running, the neutral and side-stand switches.
There must be one or the other present.
Assuming it starts with the side-stand down, that validates the neutral switch is good.
Typical indicator of a side-stand switch issue would be if it dies when you click it into gear with the side raised (if the side-stand is down it will DEFINITELY cut)
However I don't think that is the issue here - if you just elevate the rpm slightly, see if stalls when you put it in gear. If it does not then the switch is not what is causing the stall.

I think the problem is still associated with your idle set-up.
When you replaced the TPS did you complete the calibration?
Did you do the 'Reset adaptions' and run the '12 minute tune'?

hi we set the tps and did a reset but i got a bit confused with the 12 minute tune, I thought i new what i was doing after reading about it but got lost when trying it on the bike. i thought i had done it right but impretty sure i didn't now

 

[Mittzy]

Does it still die if you keep some revs into it when you pull the clutch? If not it wont be the stand switch etc

 

[karl rashleigh]

Does it still die if you keep some revs into it when you pull the clutch? If not it wont be the stand switch etc

if i have revs its fine its only when not using the throttle, going to spend today on it, more time to learn my bike

 

[karl rashleigh]

Ok, hopefully done everything right with tunceecu this morning, loaded ecu map onto computer which is 20219, started the bike with out throttle and let it run until fan kicked in, its about 13c here at the moment. throttle when not running readin diagnostics page

16.2 0.71V
0% 0.59v

when running

16.2% 0.69
32% 1.78v

i took a screen shot of tuneecu whilst it was running, to be honest i am not sure what i am looking at and no faults are reading.

 

[karl rashleigh]

i was wondering why it is reading on the idle section 850, when it is set for 950 at that temperature or is that normal? also when bike is running and the stand is up i can clutch and put in gear with out even a slight change in idle,

 

[karl rashleigh]

i was wondering why it is reading on the idle section 850, when it is set for 950 at that temperature or is that normal? also when bike is running and the stand is up i can clutch and put in gear with out even a slight change in idle,

Took the bike for spin on the highway, stalled a few times while trying to get out on the road but once out on the freeway and back no problems. just got to find out whats happening with the lights.

 

[karl rashleigh]

The headlights got me stumped, they are bypassed all fuses are fine, brought 2 new light globes just in case they were stuffed and i couldnt see it. connections are all tight. anyone know what else i need to check

 

[DEcosse]

The headlights got me stumped, they are bypassed ...

You mean there is a relay kit installed?
Check the fuse for the power wire that feeds the relays; also check the wire for the negatives;
both would typically come directly off the battery connections if an EB (or similar) relay kit is installed;
since you replaced the battery ensure that both the positive AND negative for the headlight bypass are both connected at the battery
(either of the wires may have dropped down and you didn't notice it when reconnecting)

If you have an Eastern Beaver kit it looks like this:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Triumph/triumph.html

Those relays sit just behind the steering head;
Note that you have both a negative and positive lead that connect to the battery, the positive is fused.
If either is not connected lights will not work.

Also some kits have a 'cut' switch on the low beam only; you can elminate that as source of issue by simply switching to hi beam; if hi beam works, look for the low beam switch

 

[karl rashleigh]

You mean there is a relay kit installed?
Check the fuse for the power wire that feeds the relays; also check the wire for the negatives;
both would typically come directly off the battery connections if an EB (or similar) relay kit is installed;
since you replaced the battery ensure that both the positive AND negative for the headlight bypass are both connected at the battery
(either of the wires may have dropped down and you didn't notice it when reconnecting)

If you have an Eastern Beaver kit it looks like this:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Triumph/triumph.html

Those relays sit just behind the steering head;
Note that you have both a negative and positive lead that connect to the battery, the positive is fused.
If either is not connected lights will not work.

Also some kits have a 'cut' switch on the low beam only; you can elminate that as source of issue by simply switching to hi beam; if hi beam works, look for the low beam switch

Hi Decossee

Thankyou for replying, when i checked the wires, it has a black wire set up similar to the red wire in this diagram. these seem to have a fuse on it which i have never seen before, a plastic bullet shaped fuse with a piece of metal conected from one end to the other. I did notice though when i turned ignition on, although low or high beam hasnt come on, the park lights fluttered a little bit like a faulty wire or something. I am not sure what the previous owner had done but i am thinking that he got different things done to the bike at the same time like the exhaust system. the headlight system is not set up the same as the picture and it apears that there are a few other connections comming of this fuse as well.