Troubles and havent even had first ride

[DEcosse]

So seems like a bit of progress ....... it does still sound like it is 'hunting' - starts easier but won't take throttle and engine speed fluctuates?
Again, I'd really like to know that you have good pressure, just to give the fuel delivery system a 100% check mark and say "ok, done with that, can move on ........"
And if you can get those MAP sensor readings while it is actually running that would be helpful.

... we went to do the tune and the cable cant read the ecu tried different ways but it wont read the tune. ...

Can you clarify please:
What do you mean "do" the tune?
And from earlier post, (if I understood correctly) you said you could retrieve the map that was in there, so not sure what is different now?
If you retrieved - and saved - the current tune (map) that you got the other day, why do you need to do this again?
And regardless, all you really want to know is what map is in there for reference (however, you should indeed be able to 'get' the map, if you want to ........)
But you can load the map into the program from the TuneECU library, just so you have a map of the correct model/generation in the program - again, it is not going to have any affect on the bike, whether you retrieve the map from the ECU, or load one to the program from the library.
So I'm not sure where you're going here - unless you plan to reload a new (or same) map down to the ECU.

I don't think you answered earlier - what is the exhaust config on this bike?
Is it stock? After-market? Cat-box/catalyst or no?
Air intake config - airbox or cone filters?

I'm not 100% about the Tourer but I believe it is essentially a classic

Your available OEM map selections would be

20215 Standard Pipe and OEM Cat-box/catalytic converter
20220 Standard Pipe and empty cat-box (catalytic converter removed)

20218 After-market exhaust and OEM cat-box with catalyst converter
20221 After-market exhaust and empty cat-box (catalyst removed)
20219 After-market exhaust and cat-box removed (replaced with bypass)

You said earlier the shop had loaded a new map - that may have muddied the waters - important to know that whatever they loaded matches your hardware config
It looks at least from your posted pics that is std exhaust (although don't know about the cat status) - but not sure if that is current?

Someone may refer you to a better custom map for your config, but for now I would stick to the OEM dealer selections to at least get it running fairly stable to begin with. So you may wish to load whatever most closely matched what you have

***** Incidentally you should unplug your headlights while you are working with TuneECU, especially if uploading or downloading from/to ECU - you can pull fuse 9,but it will need to be present to start. Easier to pull the two headlight connectors just behind the steering head *****

 

[karl rashleigh]

So seems like a bit of progress ....... it does still sound like it is 'hunting' - starts easier but won't take throttle and engine speed fluctuates?
Again, I'd really like to know that you have good pressure, just to give the fuel delivery system a 100% check mark and say "ok, done with that, can move on ........"
And if you can get those MAP sensor readings while it is actually running that would be helpful.



Can you clarify please:
What do you mean "do" the tune?
And from earlier post, (if I understood correctly) you said you could retrieve the map that was in there, so not sure what is different now?
If you retrieved - and saved - the current tune (map) that you got the other day, why do you need to do this again?
And regardless, all you really want to know is what map is in there for reference (however, you should indeed be able to 'get' the map, if you want to ........)
But you can load the map into the program from the TuneECU library, just so you have a map of the correct model/generation in the program - again, it is not going to have any affect on the bike, whether you retrieve the map from the ECU, or load one to the program from the library.
So I'm not sure where you're going here - unless you plan to reload a new (or same) map down to the ECU.

I don't think you answered earlier - what is the exhaust config on this bike?
Is it stock? After-market? Cat-box/catalyst or no?
Air intake config - airbox or cone filters?

I'm not 100% about the Tourer but I believe it is essentially a classic

Your available OEM map selections would be

20215 Standard Pipe and OEM Cat-box/catalytic converter
20220 Standard Pipe and empty cat-box (catalytic converter removed)

20218 After-market exhaust and OEM cat-box with catalyst converter
20221 After-market exhaust and empty cat-box (catalyst removed)
20219 After-market exhaust and cat-box removed (replaced with bypass)

You said earlier the shop had loaded a new map - that may have muddied the waters - important to know that whatever they loaded matches your hardware config
It looks at least from your posted pics that is std exhaust (although don't know about the cat status) - but not sure if that is current?

Someone may refer you to a better custom map for your config, but for now I would stick to the OEM dealer selections to at least get it running fairly stable to begin with. So you may wish to load whatever most closely matched what you have

***** Incidentally you should unplug your headlights while you are working with TuneECU, especially if uploading or downloading from/to ECU - you can pull fuse 9,but it will need to be present to start. Easier to pull the two headlight connectors just behind the steering head *****

ok lots to awnser

* i didnt save the map when i first connected to the bike and this time i cant read the ecu as it keeps saying cable not conected turn of engine and turn back on. i am reading about hat now.
* when i say Tune i ment just connecting the bike to the pc (Bad analogy on my part)
* I dont know what or any changes where made to the exhaust or catbox as i have nothing in paper work about this and the owner doesnt know anything about the bike and wont get back to me.
* 20221 20219 both came up intitailly 20219 map came up then the 20221 map showed up whilst testing fuel pump and throttle. when i was not connected to the bike it was reading 20221 map again but i didn't save it on my computer. (unfortunatley)
* the picture was taken of the bike just before it was put in the shed.
* with the head lights i have taken out the fuse whilst working on the bike.

* i might load the 20219 map on the pc as this was the first one to come up but i cant work on the bike tonight as battery has drained again.

 

[DEcosse]

Unless it is after-market exhaust (and no cat box) I wouldn't go with 219
First decide - are pipes OEM or after-market?
Then, is there the OEM cat-box?
Does the cat-box have anything in it?
If the pipes are OEM and the cat-box is there, then it most likely has the cat still in it - so you should go with 215
Just because it may have 219 (or even 221) in there currently, doesn't mean it's correct - especially since it has never (really) run since the shop installed it!

the people who did the service said they had loaded updated map in it.

 

[Discoverydave]

i didnt save the map when i first connected to the bike and this time i cant read the ecu as it keeps saying cable not conected turn of engine and turn back on. i am reading about hat now.

I had this exact same problem and all I was doing wrong was not plugging the cable into the same usb port that I had started with. Once I plugged it into the right port, all was fine. Maybe you could try that.

 

[karl rashleigh]

I had this exact same problem and all I was doing wrong was not plugging the cable into the same usb port that I had started with. Once I plugged it into the right port, all was fine. Maybe you could try that.

yeah i was using different ports each time. thanks i will give that a go in the morning

 

[karl rashleigh]

Unless it is after-market exhaust (and no cat box) I wouldn't go with 219
First decide - are pipes OEM or after-market?
Then, is there the OEM cat-box?
Does the cat-box have anything in it?
If the pipes are OEM and the cat-box is there, then it most likely has the cat still in it - so you should go with 215
Just because it may have 219 (or even 221) in there currently, doesn't mean it's correct - especially since it has never (really) run since the shop installed it!

Hi DEcosse Its hard to make the choice as i dont know what the shop did with the ecu i supoose i am just going to have to pick one and i will go with 215 fro now. could it be a tps issue. i thought when the bike started it would rev a little higher at the start but it never compensated for a cool start. it did the same when it warmed up the stepper motor seemed to be working. i am kind of getting to the point that its beyond me doing anymore and admitting defeat. but i will see how i go tomorrow. the bike before would start but shut of quickly now it is starting everytime and idling about 2 to 3 seconds. when reving just a little bit it will keep going but without this it will go back to idle for about 3 seconds. we didnt touch the throttle for the first 6 starts and then we just moved it a little bit when it fired up and we kept the bike going for about 30 seconds but as soon as soon as the throttle was not moving it went to low iddle and then stopped.

 

[Sensfan]

I had this exact same problem and all I was doing wrong was not plugging the cable into the same usb port that I had started with. Once I plugged it into the right port, all was fine. Maybe you could try that.

Agreed, newer laptops are picky that way. I had a similar issue as well, I didn't plug JUST the cord in and follow the prompts to search for the software on the internet(need internet connection), once I figured out that faux pas, everything connected after that.

 

[DEcosse]

... Its hard to make the choice as i dont know what the shop did with the ecu i supoose i am just going to have to pick one and i will go with 215 fro now.

I would say not to worry too much about what the shop did install and just go with the map that seems to best reflect your configuration and with OEM pipes and cat-box then that would be 215.

If OEM exhaust, the part number should be directly on the exhaust itself
This is OEM right side upper exhaust part number 2208414: (bottom one is 2208415)

You can see where the part number/emissions label location is on the inside of the exhaust

could it be a tps issue.

I don't think so, although we may want to zero it. (more on this later)

.. now it is starting everytime and idling about 2 to 3 seconds. when reving just a little bit it will keep going but without this it will go back to idle for about 3 seconds.

So you have definitely improved the situation with fuel rail and injectors being cleaned, which suggests your issues are/were primarily fuel based concerns.
I sound like a broken record, but please try to measure the fuel pressure - even a cheap gauge is going to be adequate.
Call your man at the injector shop & see if you can borrow one, on a deposit if necessary - you literally need the thing for 5 mins.

Also, try to get MAP sensor readings, even if it is slightly higher engine speed than normal idle.

This is what I would do at this point (assumes you can get the TuneECU program to reconnect)
1. Ideally check the Fuel Pressure - this may not be an issue, but you really need to know to close that chapter. Given all the things you have done in the fueling department I think its important to have this validation before you start to do any re-mapping.

2. Install the appropriate map (215?)
Download and save the map from the TuneECU website
Extract the map from the zipfile into your folder
Remove Fuse 9 (or disconnect headlights) and turn on Ignition and Kill Switch to Run
When TuneECU connects, 'read map' from the ECU menu
Once the map is uploaded to the program, select File -> save map and save to your TuneECU folder
Turn off Ignition
Now File -> Open map and navigate to the folder to where you downloaded the extracted file (20125 map) from the website
Turn on Ignition, and once you get the green 'download' icon, click that and it will start the download of that file to the ECU.
Allow the download to complete then turn the ignition off, then on again

3. Check the TPS zero:
a) Turn on ignition, go to tests page and click the 'adjust iscv' - this will set the stepper for the throttles to fully closed position
b) check the voltage of the TPS (you can read this directly on TuneECU on the bottom dial of the three smaller ones) - it should be 0.6V +/- 0.02 i.e. 0.58 to 0.62V (even if at extreme don't worry about)
c) if not within that range, loosen the TPS screws and rotate the TPS to get within the range.
d) double click the 'adjust ISCV again - stepper should drive open - voltage should now be 0.75 +/- 0.05 i.e. between 0.70 to 0,80V
e) double click again to to end the ISCV adjust process

4. Replace Fuse 9, then Start the bike and get it up to normal operating temperature (90C), assisting with the throttle if necessary
Once it is up to operating temp, the closed loop system will kick in and will help to bring it into control. Ideally it will idle unassisted at this point.
At this point, shut it down and proceed to step 5.

5. Re-adapt the system -
Select reset adaption from the main menu ECU tab
start it and let it idle with the throttle closed and then leave it alone to complete the adaption process. It may hunt a little during this process but eventually should stabilize out as it learns the trims and 'adapts' the fueling from what the O2 sensor is seeing.

You can find more specifics on the processes on the TuneECU site -

 

[TURBO200R4]

just a couple of things i don't think was said. i seem to remember some said that the cable should be plug in the bike and hook to the computer then turn on comp. i don' know if this is correct but its worth a try.
also it has been said that you need a charger on it while trying to load maps?
my 07 classic has tors (and it says on the pipes) also has a cat delete (just some pipes instead of the pipes going into a box) it also has the 20219 map which is alright for starters if you have the tors and cat delete.
your problem sounds a lot like map prob. 1st is map sensors (elect) plugged in. 2nd because it has been sitting you need to make sure all the hoses going to the map sensor are clear by blowing thur them and do not have any kinks in them. while it is idling make sure the hoses are not collapsing.
like DEcosse said at this time a fuel pressure test while trying to give throttle a must. did you see a New fuel pump installed? i don't know about triumph but have seen a lot of new pumps that would idle but would crap out under throttle. there for the check. also did you see the tank cleaned? old sludge can plug the filter and lower fuel pressure.there for the check.
your getting close so don't give up. we are rooting for you to succeed.

 

[DEcosse]

... also it has been said that you need a charger on it while trying to load maps?

You really shouldn't need it provided the battery is in decent state of charge - what IS important is to be sure the lights are off, so your battery isn't trying to provide 10+ amps to those while its loading.
On the other hand, it doesn't hurt either, if you want to attach a charger.