Transmission issue

Finally was able to get to work on output shaft replacement this weekend ,It is lot more work than I had anitcipated.I was in a hurry yesterday and didn't pay too much attention when I was taking apart the bike and have few question before I put back the motorcycle together
>Is there a procedure to adjust rear engine mount sleeves( right side) with castle nut. I have marked the tread on the inner sleeve, do I just tighten to the depth it was originally fastened .Is this same with swing arm adjusting sleeve as well
>The final drive -drive shat spline was completely devoid of grease and teeth on spline was grounded( I have a brand new spare final drive which I will install ,do you guys recommend to replace the shaft as well
>Noticed medium burr but no tooth chipped on drive gear in transmission that mates with output-shaft gear. How badly would this affect performance
>And the red dust seal that was on my old output shaft cover need to be put on the new cover with sealed bearing as well?


 

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Wow ! I am impressed. You did all that under an apartment complex canopy. Where are you ?

The red dust is actually the molybdenum from the factory. Even though there is no information from Triumph about a lubrication interval for the drive shaft splines into the final drive, because it is where the shaft slides, we have learned that it needs to be re-lubed at every tire change. Or every 10,000 miles if using dark side. We have been using Honda Moly 60 paste. However Honda has discontinued that and superseded it with their M77 paste. DO NOT waist your money on M77 paste for the splines. It is not the proper substitute for Moly 60. M77 is OK for an assembly paste for parts that will be covered in the oil flow. You will have to shop for another molybdenum substitute for the splines. I have not found one I am satisfied with yet.
 
I have to run now but in short yes you need the red seal. As for the gears if it were me I would be fortunate. First it looks like the out put helical gear can come off without splitting the engine Of course I just have pictures and the book but if you have the front off and can lock the clutch basket and put her in gear I believe you will be able to hit the 145 NM torque. I would then calculate the chordal thickness of the teeth and measure it with my Gear Tooth Vernier Calipers But I am a tool maker I have them 1000 dollar buggers Then if the thickness is good I would deburr the teeth. You have some wear since the front bearing was gone at time under load the normal clearance between the gear known as backlash was exceeded. This is where the bur formed from.
Sorry but I have to run I will add more later if you need.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
NO I dont think the red dust is moly lube it looks dry and rusty and I think the lube is long gone Ive seen that before on plenty of shaft drive bikes that were never lubed correctly and the splines are badly worn and ready to fail
 
Mal Padley said:
how do you put paste in .? through nipple or strip down, ..?
sounds like i better do it , darkside.!
Click to expand...
Easy Mal just remove the bevel box clean off the splines and grease them. I also grease the splines in the cup and leave some in the bottom of it. Have not had a problem yet





@v*twin from the looks of the bevel box splines I suspect your shaft is toast. Yes change it with the bevel box and lubricate it. I use MolyKote




Good enough for aircraft good enough for my beast.
 
IMFASTTOO said:
NO I dont think the red dust is moly lube it looks dry and rusty and I think the lube is long gone Ive seen that before on plenty of shaft drive bikes that were never lubed correctly and the splines are badly worn and ready to fail
Click to expand...

I'm told the red dust is what Triumph uses from the factory. All of the first time final drives I have pulled off looked the same. (Except for the worn out splines on his.)
 


LOL... NO PROBS warp9.9 ha ha.. just thinking of it..lol

just liking all the info and advice here in this site, instead of fighting the DEALERS..!!! HA ha ha, here i feel at home, lol
 
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