I have just seen this, very sorry to see the crash, for all the reasons, rider, bike, owner of bike etc. It can be a tough gig for sure, but very positive that all are alive and well, if a bit scuffed up. Trust you heal well Justdad. Maybe you need to come try the best salt in the world.......
 
Couldn’t help but think of you getting to do a frame up, sooooo interested in this

Still brainstorming but one thing is in the mail already:
Screenshot_20230814_215038_Opera.jpg
 
I've done a few fun things on mine if you need to bounce any ideas around. The Gen 2 Hayabusa front end swap is surprisingly easy, although you have to get creative to get the fork length anywhere near where you need it. Depending on the cost of replacing that rear rim, we made an adapter to get an off the shelf Kawasaki rim to fit that might be appealing.
 
I have just seen this, very sorry to see the crash, for all the reasons, rider, bike, owner of bike etc. It can be a tough gig for sure, but very positive that all are alive and well, if a bit scuffed up. Trust you heal well Justdad. Maybe you need to come try the best salt in the world.......
😄😄 I think a jet ski would have been a better tool.
 
Sharing the following information for others who go out there or who may consider it. I consider 11.5" shocks (aka stock -1") the minimum length when paired with stock front fork length and a short front tire (125/70 or 130/70).

As I said, and now you all can see, this wasn't a hop and go simple thing like on a production 1000 or something. Riding the bike fast out there was work and required a lot of finesse to cope with the dancing it was doing, particularly on deceleration.

Steering head bearing is not loose, nor too tight, it's in the window of correct, no click on pull of fork legs while front is lifted, but the bars freely fall to the stop.

1st run, steering damper was in the middle position, shocks at 10.5", valving at softest. Tires at 36f/33r.
2nd run, steering damper was in the tightest position, shocks at 11", valving at notch 3 of 4. Tires at 37f/35r.

Understand these aren't street tires, they're typically run at 26-28 psi, hot temps (around 80c). WSBK SuperBike race tire front, SuperCorsa SC rear (not the street approved SuperCorsa, track only). They are built on the same carcass, but the SuperCorsa SC3 has an extended temperature range of functionality to cope with the relatively cool temps via compound and the voids which help heat them more quickly than a full slick. The Indian factory team was running the same tires.

The wobble was self-correcting, but only just, and low traction made it take a lot longer to self-correct than on pavement. I'm fairly certain the delayed correction of the wobble was due to shock length setting the swing arm angle too shallow, providing "barely adequate" anti-squat on the back of the bike.
 
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