Spongy front brake lever

The Speed Triple crowd went through the same problems. The ziptied handle would only work for a day or two and so would bleeding. They found that the seal on the piston was sticking causing the piston not to fully return after being applied. This created some lagg between the pistons and the pads. Pushing the pistons out and lubing the seals solved the problem.
 
Re: piston seal

Brake cylinders are not supposed to return out all the way--when you replace old pads with new, they need to be pushed out to fit over the rotor (be careful not to overflow master cylinder!). So, I assume you're referring to the master cylinder piston not returning all the way. I would think I'd feel that in the brake lever, but maybe not... Might give it a try.

vonbonds, as far as I know, the only approved 'lubricant' for any rubber brake parts is the same brake fluid you're filling the reservoir with. The material in brake seals/parts is not made to withstand standard lubricants, which can cause them to break down and leak.
 
OK I found some posts on it... There are about 4000 on Trat.net regarding the issue.




One other potential weakness is the Y-split in the brake lines.

 
So if I'm understanding this properly, the piston lubricant should solve the issue of excessive lever travel, but if brakes feel mushy then most likely there is still air in the lines. When I tried bleeding, I went through 3 or 4 reservoirs of fluid without success. Evidently the suction bleeder is the key... I'm still wondering why the dealer(s) can't seem to take care of the problem.
 
Roadsters and Brake Bleeds

New owner of a 2011 Roadster here. But have many years of experience bleeding /changing fluid on many bikes, and a few cars, and the suggested 'backwards -bleeding' of the brake fluid has served me well many times. Esp. helpfull in eliminating spongey feeling brakes-getting rid of air bubbles in the system! Esp. when I have no helper to assist! Use new/fresh Dot4 out of a new tin/bottle. Don't use Dot 5 fluid. Question - when I serviced my Corvette C4 with ABS, it required different procedures than with a non-ABS brake system. Does anyone know if the ABS on 2010/2011 Roadsters with ABS require special steps when changeing or bleeding thier brakes?
 
I've had bad Front brakes since I owned my classic. I have bleed with little help and if it worked only for a while. I would install new pads and everything was OK for 2-3k I finally tried somethng out of desperation. I lost all front brakes and bleed with no results. THis time I stuck my finger in the master over the fluid hole on the return on the lever after 3 times I had GREAT brakes. the best i ever had. Can it be the check valve in the master is bad on all the bikes? Just a thought
 
Another fix....

I have had the same issue with front brakes. The fix that I use was found on another site, but works for me. I do this adjustment about every 4000-5000 miles (2007 R3). Here is what to do:

1) get a good quality needle nose pliers (long).
2) looking down on the brake caliper put the pliers between the U and the M on the Triumph. and the outside of the caliper.
3) now "gently " squeeze to take the slack out of the pads(pushing the pad back into the caliper.
4) Do the other side.
5) Pump the front breaks a few times, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then check to see.

This has always worked for me and I use only one finger to stop the bike. Hope this works for you too. I got 18,000 miles off my first set.
 
I put EBC H.H. pads in the front and it really firmed up the lever without doing anything else. Not to mention it stops ALOT better.