shifter problem

[9Ball]

I'm getting ready to take my '07 R3 to the dealer next week for some warranty work and wanted to get some feedback from the forum.

Has anyone here had a problem with the shifter not returning? It appears that the return spring on mine is either weak, broken, or there's something interfering with the shifter shaft/pedal. In order to shift I need to manually lift or press down on the shifter pedal with my toe in order to find the next gear. This is most problematic for 4th and 5th gears, especially on the upshift. I disconnected the shift linkage from the pedal and the pedal moves very freely, so it's definitely internal to the engine casing.

Any feedback is welcome, but anyone having the same problem might share the results of the fix including how long the bike was in the shop and whether Triumph gave any problems covering the fix.

John

 

[biker1059]

I have an 05 with 15k miles on it. Had the shifter spring replaced when it had 1500 miles on it. Its like getting a new bike. Shifts like butter with a big ol clunck. Pretty common in the earlier models. I think a pretty easy fix.

 

[biker1059]

Don't know how long it will take. Mine was in for a engine block replacement. Bad casting on the block. They had it 3 weeks, it was during Christmas and waiting for parts but the actual work was less than a week.

 

[RoadVenture]

John,

The dealer will need to remove the engine from your bike to access any transmission parts ot internal shifter parts. Plan on AT LEAST a week and probably much longer this time of year.

I would not expect Triumph having any problem paying for this work since your bike is still in the warranty period.

While it is apart ask the mechanic to remove the bolt holding the internal shift link to the shift shaft. It will need to be primed with LOCTITE primer, have LOCTITE RED applied and then be torqued to 29 newton-meters. Frequently this process is overlooked during assembly and the result is that the bolt falls out and then...........no shift!

 

[Sidecar Flip]

That's 272 ThreadLocker. Disassembly of parts treated properly with 272 is by heating the parts and then disassembly. I use it all the time around here.

It's too bad the bike has to be taken apart to access the bolt. It would be a lot simpler to have an access port or a blanking plate where you could get to the innards with disassembly.

Now, I'm wondering why the machine bolt and its corresponding part aren't drilled and a spring type roll pin isn't inserted. It would seem plausible to me that you'd want to insure that the assembly didn't come apart again, no matter what.

It's obviously a poor design for the affected parts as well as not having an access port or inspection window in the case itself.

 

[RoadVenture]

Now, I'm wondering why the machine bolt and it's corresponding part aren't drilled and a spring type roll pin isn't inserted. It would seem plausible to me that you'd want to insure that the assembly didn't come apart again, no matter what.

It's obviously a poor design for the affected parts as well as not having an access port or inspection window in the case itself.

My comment exactly to Triumph Customer Service when I first talked to them. And then again, when I talked to the mechanic who actually tore down the engine to do the work.

The "access port" can be omitted if no access is required and if some form of mechanical lock is used on the bolt, then is would not need to be accessed.

 

[boogerdave]

I had put a Rivco shifter on mine and it seemed like I could never get the thing set right after that. It wouldnt return and was getting annoying. I took it to the dealer who took it for a ride and agreed . . wouldnt return correctly but he also made the observation that the shifter stuck out a hair more, had a little more weight and if my foot was touching the side of the shifter it was enough drag to stop it from returning. After that I made an effort to make sure my boot didnt touch the shifter on the side . . . no more problem. Not saying thats your problem but . . .

 

[Gunshots]

The loose bolt is a symptom of dangling shifter and not a return issue. I have added a coupld drops of oil in the right place and all is fine again. the mating surfaces are large and poorly machined and are a safehaven for dirt and grime. hose that sucker good and give is some real lubricant. (some of flips used lawnmower oil, it a fixall liquid)

 

[9Ball]

The loose bolt is a symptom of dangling shifter and not a return issue. I have added a coupld drops of oil in the right place and all is fine again. the mating surfaces are large and poorly machined and are a safehaven for dirt and grime. hose that sucker good and give is some real lubricant. (some of flips used lawnmower oil, it a fixall liquid)

Tried this suggestion. Still problems with downshift 4th to 3rd,3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to first. Upshifting is OK now.

Thanks....it's going in to the shop on Weds.

 

[9Ball]

The loose bolt is a symptom of dangling shifter and not a return issue. I have added a coupld drops of oil in the right place and all is fine again. the mating surfaces are large and poorly machined and are a safehaven for dirt and grime. hose that sucker good and give is some real lubricant. (some of flips used lawnmower oil, it a fixall liquid)

UPDATE.....

It appears Mr Gunshots knows his stuff.

On the 70 mile ride to the dealer, about half way there in stop and go traffic the shifter began functioning again. I really soaked the shifter shaft with 3 in 1 oil on Sunday and it seems to have remedied the sticking shifter.

By time I got to the dealer, all was well. Lots of oil (3 in 1) on the side of the motor.

It rode home like a new bike.

I owe Gunshots a few brews of his choice.

Thanks. We'll see if this was a long-term fix. It was a good ride at least.