Run what you brung / shift light

I can’t recommend the Healtech I linked enough, 5 minute installation and can be configured for multiple functions besides race shifting.

Using the ECU OBD2 plug to feed a phone based light will work, but, you’ll need to set it at least 300-400 RPM below desired shift RPM because the ECU updates slowly.

If you’re going to use the above method, upward pressure on the shifter and let it flat shift when it hits the limited, no need to adjust the Redline. Your fastest times will be shifting at redline in each gear, short shifts will cost you time and lower trap speed.
 
Cheers for the feedback guys now sorted "Holley Sniper" exactly what I wanted bit pricey and I had to get from the colonies
 

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I can’t recommend the Healtech I linked enough, 5 minute installation and can be configured for multiple functions besides race shifting.
I am currently upgrading my barbagris speed-fine alert-o-meter from Shift-I - Shift Light - Ecliptech to Shift-P2 - Ecliptech. I have mine with the extra functions unlocked. 15 steps (if you want) - separate staging function. All sorts of other thingies that I really don't fully see how to take advantage of (yet?)

Option1. Alertometer in KPH - and MPH (for trips across the channel)
Option2. Alertometer in KPH - and progressive shift light.

Gwon - you want to - you know you do.
 

I wondered about that, my redline is 9000 rpm, but power drops off dramatically after 8500, according to my dyno chart, you're saying it's still better/faster to shift at 9000?
 
Tripps, why have the limit so high, if it's not doing anything? I'd suggest dropping it down to 8000/8500. that's where your grunt stops. What Claviger said will work, but I prefer to run it to the limiter, then use clutch and upshift. Ain't no way I want to have to split my engine and play with gears. Then again, I'm not drag racing, just making me smile! Just got back from a ride. No brake lights, horn, or turn signals. Glanced at the fuses, but too ****ed hot to mess with now.
 
Carpenter racing package, different animal, hence my question. I wouldn't say it's not doing anything, but it drops off a bit, how much is what I'm wondering.

 
I wondered about that, my redline is 9000 rpm, but power drops off dramatically after 8500, according to my dyno chart, you're saying it's still better/faster to shift at 9000?

I’ll use that dyno and run it through the gear change rpm optimizer calculator. Just looking, I suspect fastest times will be achieved at redline for all gears.

PS: which compression ratio is your package? 11 or 13?