Rocket III production dates vs Idle problems

vonbonds... where were you when I made this poll ... Too late now, I can only put in 10 options.

Hey Flip... I'll check on what I used when I get back to work... my leg is still goofy and I have been taking some time off. (The bottle of lube is at work... obviously). It was a full synthetic and the numbers were a little different than the shop manual calls for... but it was close and really expensive so I figured it was OK. I have about 4000 miles on the new lube so its been working OK. I'll probably change it again here soon...

Here is what I used for final drive lube...

Castrol Syntec Gear oil
API GL5
MT-1
75w 90
Full Synthetic

The shop manual calls for...

Mobilube 1 SHC 75W 90 Fully synthetic hypoid oil

It gives no API rating???

As far as using a 85W 140, you are on your own. I would try it and change it out after just about 20 miles and see if things are cool (no metal ect in the old oil). It takes so little lube to fill the final drive up its not going to break you to experiment. Is the Spirax 85 140 a full sunthetic? If not... don't use it...

Tom:

Spirax is semi synthetic, so I won't. We have full synthetic Mobil at work as well as full synthetic transmission lube. Eaton Fuller factory fills all Road ranger transmissions with synthetic now and has no change interval. The fill is for the life of the tranny and/or until rebuild. Same goes for the final drives. No change indicated unless rebuilt.

We are using extended life antifreeze in all our trucks as well. 5 years between changes but still replenishing the additive package when needed. Additive package depletion is checked by relative Ph.

I see the R3 is a linered engine but, I can't tell from the shop manual if the liners are wet or dry. I presume they are dry as Triumph calls for normal ethylene glycol antifreeze with no additive package other than the normal anti-corrosion inhibitors. If it was wet linered, I believe Triumph would call for an anti-cavatation additive such as potassium permagnate or DCA4. I also see that they prefer a low silicate formula but that's because of the non ferrous metals in the cooling system.

The linered engine is interesting. Linered engines, especially wet liner's are able to transfer heat more readily than a parent bore or a straight bored block and are easier to rebuild too. By interesting, I mean that the engine is linered but the head is a throw away item with no cam bearings and cast in guides. Other than production considerations, I can't understand why the head is a scrapper and the block isn't. I'd really dread loosing the oil pump. No pressure would euchre the head in seconds under load.

NO Rough Idle here

I've experienced neither rough idling nor stalling. Just throwing in a bit of advise the dealer (salesman) and the mechanic that checked me out before I screamed on down the road for the first time.

They both advised me not to crank 'er up and revving it a bit then shutting her down. They suggested not shutting down until at least the cooling fan came on; which takes about 9 minutes when I accomplished the 12 minutes tunes. They were speaking about the rich fuel mixture at start up fouling up the plugs. And, I suppose there could be a corruption of the ECM module settings

I have a recall!!!! 07-19-07

While on the Triumph Company site yesterday there was a place to put your vin number in and see if there is a recall pending. And low and behold there is on my bike 2006 trible rocket le.
I called the dealer where I bought it and he got his computer and after entering the vin he told me it was a 5 min program that affects the idle. A symtom was that a bike would just shut off. Only once did I have this occure. Otherwise I have had no idle issues and would not like to reprogram and experience another issue? What are your thoughts there in Rocket land??

Hope this is good input for all.....

Ride safe, have fun and with respct!!!

name that tune...

According to quite a few Captains here, if and when you take the bike in for service, the dealer installs the new tune and it seems that tune makes the bike sluggish in acceleration. Personally, I'll abstain from that tune. Tomo has a better solution though it is a little involved and don't effect the in place tune at all.

You know, I thought it was just me... but after they put that tune in mine, it is running a bit sluggish. I've just been running along thinking "well, I must just be used to the Rocket now".. but you're right.. Hmmmmm.. I'll have to do some checking on this.

Txrlll

Let me know what you find on this, I had the new tune installed also and thought the same thing. I don't know if the dealer with put the original tune back in. I would like to know what the original was and what they put in thought to see if I can get it out back put in some were.

idle

Trash the friggin idle stepper motor and set your idle with the screw like Tomos old post..Then you can put an old fast idle cable on If you dont want to stay with It for 30 seconds on cold mornings..Friggen computer crap..Jack

It's looking more and more like that is the only real fix. I haven't had a bit of trouble since I set it up that way. Of course... I drink a lot