Roadster won't start after grip replacement

Put your voltmeter across the battery and tell us what the voltage is. It should be high 12s or low 13 volts. If the voltage is good then with the voltmeter in place, hit the starter button and see what the voltage drops to. If it drops a lot with that loud click, the battery is probably shot. How did the auto shop test the battery? Best way is with an AVR type instrument and a carbon pile.

Sure does remind me of a loose connection though. Will allow a small amount of current then when you draw a lot, the connections arcs and breaks.

I'll give that a try. They tested the battery with a small black device with short jumper cables hanging off of it. When I tested the battery with the voltmeter it was around 12.75 volts, but was out of the bike at the time. I foolishly dropped the bolt that connects the cable to the negative battery terminal and it landed somewhere behind the side cover. Once I track it down or get a new one I'll try this. Thanks for the advice.
 
One other thing that just comes to mind. Some battery posts are shaped such that if the terminal bolt is too long, you may bottom it out before it properly clamps the terminal, resulting in a loose connection.
 
One other thing that just comes to mind. Some battery posts are shaped such that if the terminal bolt is too long, you may bottom it out before it properly clamps the terminal, resulting in a loose connection.

I'm starting to feel like it is the battery. I got the cables snugged down properly on the terminals, and the voltmeter is jumping around when I test it. I pulled the battery back out and I found that I have to wiggle the voltmeter leads and find a perfect spot inside the terminals to get a steady reading at all; touching anywhere else in or on the terminals has the meter jumping all around and never coming close to the 12-13 volt range. I'll buy a battery tomorrow and see if it fixes this. Hopefully they'll let me return it if it doesn't.
 
I'm starting to feel like it is the battery. I got the cables snugged down properly on the terminals, and the voltmeter is jumping around when I test it. I pulled the battery back out and I found that I have to wiggle the voltmeter leads and find a perfect spot inside the terminals to get a steady reading at all; touching anywhere else in or on the terminals has the meter jumping all around and never coming close to the 12-13 volt range. I'll buy a battery tomorrow and see if it fixes this. Hopefully they'll let me return it if it doesn't.

It was indeed the battery. I dropped a new one in and the bike fired up immediately. It was just coincidence that the old battery shat the bed on the very day I was messing around with the grips. Thanks to all who offered advice.
 
It was indeed the battery. I dropped a new one in and the bike fired up immediately. It was just coincidence that the old battery shat the bed on the very day I was messing around with the grips. Thanks to all who offered advice.
Careful with those grips those plastic cable seats are tender. I've broke two.
 
Careful with those grips those plastic cable seats are tender. I've broke two.

Yeah I noticed when I was trying to finesse the cable nipples out of the old throttle grip. Now I need to figure out how to re-adjust the cables to where they were originally. It's finicky.
 
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